ok I know the deeper I can get down into them the better, but how wide?

also.. what about the 'other' end where it meets the intake?

hows this look? post your pics for reference!

 

wow judging by this, I've got a long way to go!

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...r?d=1109706323

 

You want the plenum side of the runner to be slightly larger than the plenum openings. Where the runners meet the intake manifold you want the runner openings to be slightly smaller than the intake openings.

Ideally you would want them exactly the same size but do to variations when they are bolted on the above is the safe route.

Those runners you have referred to have had a lot of work done on them. Basically they have made the plenum larger and shortend the runner length to just the intake manifold and the head. What you have done looks to be good.

 

Ditto to 89's comments. Only thing I can add is I'd go ahead and lay the divider all the way back to the back side of the runner,, taking out the lip making the top and back of the runner "flat" or smooth.

 

In my runner example, you're saying that I should take the divider out completely? (The part that is visible in the below pic, I mean) Take that area down, and have it flush with outermost part of runner?

 

here is a few pics of mine....i never got any after i was finished with them but i took more out of the center, i also took a "bee hive" flexable hone thingy and put if in an air drill and opened/smoothed the tubes all the way down. i would take a lot more off the top and try to make them flat like mine....the more you can take off the more it will flow and it should give you a higher sweet spot. im not sure were to find pics but i have seen were peps have cut the slps open and took the hole center out then welded them back together not sure if i would ever do this but i would be interested to see how much of a diff it would make over usin them out of the box. from what i have learned, the more you take off the center "shortin the runner" the more low end you will loose and the higher your power band will go. in my truck when i put these parts on "ported slps and port matched plenum" vs stock it felt like i picked up more low end and a LOT more high end. from just doin this mod and march underdrive power/amp pulleys i went from runnin 84 in the 1/4 to 90....thats with no traction out of the hole, they made a big diff, im very happy!!

 

Looks great! Do you happen to have any pics of the "beehive" flexible hone you are referring to?

 

http://www.ruffstuff.com/pages/flex.html

make sure to use some type of lube...it will make the life of the hone last much longer and also keep the the hone clean when workin on the runners!

 

Thanks. I was hoping it was something different than that. I actually tried one of those already and it didn't do anything...it was too fine. I use actual cutting fluid, which seems to work well with everything I've opened up so far.

 

i need to open mine alot this summer..........

 

I did mine on my VEtte.. I opened them up huge like that...Basically machined the diverter down as far as I could.. then smoothed everything out as best as I could.I matched the manifold end to a BIG mouth tpis.. then I sent it to Extrude hone and had them run 2 cycles on them... They were/are perfectly smooth and polished inside.. Then I sent them to a polishing place and had the outsides polished as well... The cost to have it all done was a little salty...But they flow/look nice..

 

what did it cost for the extrude honing? I've been considering sending mine out to get done.. but I don't even know someone that does it.

 

When I did mine it was $400. The price has since come down some. You would have to call to get the current price. You will also get a discount by doing the runners at the same time.

 

I paid like $350 for the entire tpi setup plus a paxton blower discharge tubing/casting... But that was YEARS ago..probably 1997

 

what size flex hone did you use?

 

"wow judging by this, I've got a long way to go!"

Hehehehe, and to think I'm now modifying them even further to fit the First intake manifold.