I just picked up a ZZ9 cam for a price I couldnt pass up. Wasnt planning on using this cam. Question I have is what mods to go w/ next? I wanted to go w/ 1.6 rr. Ive heard I need to change my studs to screw in type. Any help would be great. And yes I did do a search.

What heads do you have and what is the maximum lift they can handle?

Sorry should have mentioned that the heads are stock.

With 1.6 rockers, .515I/.554E will be too much lift for stock heads...

Yes, you'll want screw in studs as opposed to the stock press ins. The press ins will "probably" be ok unless you're beatin' on it, but I'd still recommend the screw ins.

....that and you'll need new valve springs too.

Oh, and that's with 1.5 rockers. Obviously the same goes for 1.6 rockers, but as Thirdgen 88 stated, that's really a bit more lift than is practical for stock heads.

So should I ditch the ZZ9 and go w/ a different cam so I can still use the 1.6 rr w/ my stock heads? What are my best options at this point.

Keep your 1.5 rockers and go with a Crane 2032 or a Accel/Lingenfelter 74216 grind. Both of these cams have lift under .475" with 1.5 rockers and work nicely with the stock heads. If you run 1.6 rockers with almost any cam other than the stock GM one you run the risk of valve stem seal to valve spring retainer interference with the stock heads. Not saying you will have a problem, but it's happened. Change your springs to a better set of 1.25" dia springs with either cam along the lines of the Competition Cams 981s or the Crane equivalents. You'll also want to burn your own PROMs if you aren't already to take full advantage of a new cam.

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What is your goal? If your goal is to leave your stock heads untouched, then choose the appropriate cam. The ZZ9 cam is a pretty darn good cam for a stock/mild L98, so I'd do what you have to do to the heads to take advantage of the cam. I wouldn't go with 1.6 rockers though, use the 1.5s.

You're dealing with 2 things with regards to the heads: -What can and can't be handled, -and what CAN be used, but would be overkill for performance. Anything more than .480 lift, and you'll want to look into screw in studs and new springs, etc. Once you've done those modifications to the heads, sure, you COULD run the ZZ9 with 1.6s, but it wouldn't be beneficial. TOO much lift. stick with the 1.5s.

.525 is 'bout all ya wanna do (performance wise) with a TPI/long runner set-up.

Use the ZZ9 cam and get TPIS valve springs that go with that cam. Part number 700-132. According TPIS i think you can use 1.6 rr with those springs.

See, we're miscommunicating.

Assuming he upgrades the valvetrain, there's no doubt you can use 1.6s. Issue is do you WANT to use 'em? And the answer is no. The stock L98 heads do not flow enough to justify a ZZ9 with 1.6s. You'd be mismatching your combo.

....and of course if you DON'T upgrade the valve train, it doesn't matter, 1.5 or 1.6, either one would bind the springs with the lift of the ZZ9.

What I have in mind are 2 things. Either buying a better flowing runners and intake base along w/ porting the plenum and heads to match OR buying bigger runners and porting the plenum, base, and heads to match.

W/ either way I go I was going to get a bigger cam, but wanted to keep the stock heads. Since the heads would be coming off for the port work I wanted to make them work for the ZZ9.

The total goal for the car is not to make it a race car. I wanting to get it to about 300-350hp. I currently have hooker 2055s w/ hooker cat back. Hope this gives an idea for what my total goal is. Thanks for the advice guys.

ANy other advice guys...

to be honest it looks like youve got it figured out. the ZZ9 will work with the 1.5rockers, and then its on to the intake. you could just look into getting your stock base extrude honed and then either some SLP or TPIS runners. you can port the upper manifold yourself.
http://www.gethoned.com/parts.php?ge...how=automotive
(thanks to LT1FUN)
its not cheap but since youve already got the base why spend money on a new one that wont flow as well as your stock one will ported.

That is some of the coolest s&*t Ive ever seen. Ill have to look more into that company. So as long as I use 1.5s there wont be a need for changing the studs or springs?

get some of comps 981 springs to go with it but yea looks good to me. maybe if you get some diff heads that flow better, THEN you could make use of the 1.6RRs.

I emailed TPiS to get there input since they make the cam. Heres what they said: I would recommend using a 1.6 on the intake and 1.5 on the exhaust. You should be able to use our 700-132 spring, other wise you can use our 700-130 spring but you do have to use different retainers and locks because it is a larger diameter spring.
Jim

and:
The 1.6/1.5 split should be fine with the stock studs. Set the springs up for 120 lbs on the seat.
Jim


Im uncertain now. I respect all of you guys advice and knowledge. I just dont want to screw anything up w/ the car. This will be my first experience w/ changing a cam and want it to work correctly.

Don't forget to degree the cam in.

I know I have to degree it. Im worried about the lift being to much for the stock heads.

my heads are the cast iron type also and are stock other then some better springs but i have press in studs and my cam lift is .487-.495 and im also runnin the 1.52 rrs so im over .500 lift and have had no problems i drive it hard and race it at the track.....just a lil info!

I wanted to run 1.6s w/ it. Thats why Im worried about the lift.

the studs will be fine, but you do need to get the springs upgraded. the stock springs can handle the lift, BUT they dont have the seat pressure or a good enough spring rate to utilize that cam. basicaly the cam will throw the spring around due to the high lift and you'll have valve float at MUCH lower rpms.