I know that I've seen the answer somewhere before but I'm obviously not "Searching" right......
I want to put my Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 RR on my stock heads waiting for next year's mods....... Any clearance problems with the pushrods before I go through the trouble. The snow will fly soon!!!!!

 

There are only a few brands that work with centerbolt valve covers. Get one of those brands and you'll be fine. Sorry I dont remember which ones. On mine I had to modify the supports on the valve covers for my rockers to fit between them.

 

Crane offers narrow-body, center-bolt-valve-cover specific 1.6:1 rocker arms. Not sure about Comp's.
Bill

 

I'm not worried if it fits side to side beneath the valve cover itself....... I can trim the baffles if need be.
I'm wondering about the pushrod slot. Does it "NEED" to be lengthened to run 1.6 RR

 

the answer to that is no. you will be fine.

just for refrence my jegs brand narrow 1.6 rrs also fit without baffle trimming, you may be better off sellin your pricey set and going with a cheaper jegs brand or such, considering your running stock spring pressure and lift and such, not like your going to be stressing an aluminum bodied rocker much.

 

I am gonna be running LPE 211/219 cam with a HSR and 1.6 pro-magnum RR to = .530/.560 " lift....... Comp Cams 986 - 1.430" diameter springs with 132# seat pressure on a set of ported and polished S/R Torquers with 58cc chambers.........................

But for now, I just needed to know that I wouldn't be scrapping the hell out of my pushrods by putting the 1.6 RR on now before I do the whole top end next year..........

Just wanted to see if there was a noticable gain (GT Pro/seat of the pants) by going from a stock .415/.430" lift using original 1.5 rockers to a .443/.459" lift using the 1.6 RR on a stock cam.......

If there is a change I'll let you know

 

I am building a L98 with factory iron heads with 1.6 rockers and am also concerned about the pushrods hitting the head. I did a mock up and the clearance was CLOSE. A trusted source at my machine shop said he thought I'd be ok and recommended NOT drilling them out. He suggested trying to file the slot a little longer if I noticed any signs of interferance. I suppose I'll have to check it out closly when I assemble it. The problem is that I don't know if I'll get a true bench test when I turn the engine over on the stand since there won't be any oil pressure. Seems that the lifter plunger may move down in the bore and not open the valve fully. If I don't see any obvious problem I will probably just bolt it together then check it again after start up. Kinda nervous about the whole deal but... BTW I got what I thought was a great deal on rockers from CNC motorsports. They have knock-off's of the Comp cams rockers for less than half the price. Stainless steel full follers for around $170. The rockers look like quality parts and I'll let you know how they hold up.

 

i'm interested in tis mod as well, hope to hear from you guys afterwards

 

I checked for those knock off Comp Cams RR at CNC Motorsports Self Aligning RR were $170. Great price needless to say!!!!!!! I told my buddy about the great price already.......... They say that they're SBC 1955-1987.
They should fit no problem I guess....... I can't see why not.
I don't think that I could return mine at this point (They're already soaking in oil)

 

They will work fine, but there isnt alot of meat left on the pressed in studs as the pro mags are suppose to be run with screw in studs with extra length. Your only going to be able to get a few threads on the polylock. Theres a post about this awhile back. But I do run them on my procharged car and pressed in "pinned" studs with 986 springs and no probs.

 

I bolted the CNC Motorsport narrow body self align 1.6's to my 87 L98 heads, no interferance and the tips sit on the valve stem about were they're supposed to.

 

Going from 1.5 stock stamped rockers to 1.6 roller rockers is worth about 10 horsepower at the rear wheels. You might feel that.

Rockers advertised as for '55-86 engines are for perimeter-bolt valve covers. You will probably have a problem with center-bolt covers.

 

is that hp increase similar on a lb9?

 

i doubt it, in addition to less cubic inches the lb9 doesn't choke up as bad as the l98 does on the highend, the 1.5's don't hurt you as bad as they do a l98 IMO.

 

The S/R Torquers have screw in studs already, but I bought them off a member here without one stud ......... No big deal I guess???
So I bought a set of new ARP screw in studs........ to go with the 986 springs

 

Thanks Mkos1980....... I was thinking about it as I went to sleep last nite and I guess I'll pass putting these RR on my original heads (with the pressed in studs) and just wait to put them on the S/R Torquer heads......... it's getting late in the season for me anyway

 

CNC has roller tip and full roller, 1.5 and 1.6, for centerbolt and perimeter bolt style heads. Couldn't find the ones for my car so I called and spoke with them. Very helpful.

Still haven't got mine running but I'll update ya when I do.