I was thinking about doing mods with the injectors and/or intake manifold. But I first wanted to know what's involved in removing the fuel rails and associated hardware from atop the intake.

I am particularly concerned with fuel pressure and fuel spraying all over the place. is it complicated?

Joe


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86 IROC TPI 305
700-R4
K&N Air filters
Dyno-Max cat-back
Summit tranny cooler
CEI throttle enhancer chip

Next mod = trans-go shift kit (level 1)

 

It is not that hard at all. You have to remove your air cleaner assembly, throttle body, and plenum. I dont remember if you have to remove the runners, but I do it for easier access. There are 4 bolts holding down the fuel rail, and two connections at the front of the engine. Dont forget to disconnect the electrical connections to the injectors, and your 9th injector if you have one (88 and earlier). If I missed something, someone else will step in.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

 

You don't HAVE to remove the runners, but it makes it a lot easier if you do. Like OMAR said, 4 bolts, and it will probably be easier if you use something to pry the injectors from the intake and then once you get the fuel rail out then turn those stupid clips so you can make sure you've got them lined up to remove them from the rail.... Mine were hard as **** to move. Also, make sure you have some of that 1/8" tubing lying around, because that stuff that lies across the top of the fuel rail is probably very brittle by now and most likely will break when you remove the necessary connections.

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Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, MSD 6AL, Aluminum Driveshaft, Wonderbar, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Modified MAF, Syclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil

15.556 @ 86.65mph, Nov 10, 2000.... I know it sucks.. but it will get better!

http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/

Member - The Tidewater Trans Am Club, Norfolk VA http://www.geocities.com/ttacva/

 

don't forget the 15mm bolt on the front of the fuel rail that is hidden behind where the fuel lines meet the fuel rail

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Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

 

And before you try pulling up on the injectors to remove them from the intake, rotate each one back and forth a couple of times to help to break the o-ring seal from the injector to the intake manifold...

 

Always use a backup wrench on the fuel fittings to avoid twisting the line. They are different sizes...

A good idea to replace the small o-rings on the fittings also. Small insurance against a fire or leak.

Make sure you have the 'safety' torx bit to remove the regulator (most afpr have them included)


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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)

 

It's a whole lot less messy if you open your gas cap before undoing any fuel lines!! Just some personal experience!

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87 GTA 350 TPI, 700R4,
K & N, Accel cap/rotor/wires, SLP airfoil, ported plenum

 

I see this is an old thread but I was trying to disconnect my fuel lines so I could remove the rail and undid the fuel inlet line and fuel return from the front but when I got those nuts off with a line wrench it acted like there were still connected. Did I miss a step?

 

There's a bolt that connects the fuel rail bracket to the intake right behind the two lines up front, did you remove that one?

 

Yeah I just got it out but is there anything special to do to unhook fuel, I depresserized it by taking fuel cap off and I think I pulled the fuel pump fuse

 

The service manual says to pull the fuel pump fuse and run the engine until it quits before disconnecting anything. I did that and it seemed to run for a long time, so I shut it off and wrapped the schrader valve area with an old tshirt to absorb leaks and depressed the valve core. Barely any fuel came out (so I think it was close to being depressurized before I shut it off), and when I disconnected the lines nothing squirted anywhere. Just be mindful not to tilt the assembly until you've got it out of the bay.

I'd say if you can depress the schrader valve and fuel doesn't squirt out, you're probably safe to pull the rail. There are also 4 bolts on top that hold the rails to the manifold. Once you pull all the bolts, the assembly will only be held in by the lower fuel injector seals, which could offer some resistance depending on how nasty they are stuck in there but you should be able to get some minor flexing out of it by hand. I sorta popped one corner out at a time. Definitely don't force anything if it feels like it doesn't want to go at all.

 

the lines seat kind of deep into the receiving end, you do need some space to pull them out, with mine it helped tremendously to quickly remove the alternator (1990 so alternator is on driver side) to get it out of the way, and unscrew the small bracket holding the fuel lines. once I was able to move them more freely they pulled out easily. I also replaced the two o-rings before they went back in.

 

I think those 2 O-rings at the front where the fuel rail steel lines mate up with the rubber hose (steel male O-ring fittings) are standard size #902 (return) and #903 (feed).