My dad and I have begun to rebuild my 305 TPI. When we were tearing it down Saturday, he said that if he knew how to do it, we'd leave the air pump off when we put it back together. I've heard of people doing it, so what's involved in leaving it off? What does it get rid of, and what else will I need to do, besides leaving the pump off?

 

Get a shorter belt and re-route it.

Maybe someone else knows the belt length off hand.

Put pipe plugs in the manifolds and crimp/crush foldover or plug the air tube on the cat.

 

This should help.

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...rpentine.shtml

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88 IROC convertible
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

there are one way valves on th exhaust manifolds so it dosent matter if ther are hoses going to them second go to the parts store and get a belt for a 91 1le camaro it has ac delete and will make up the difference when you eliminate the air pump.

 

Thanks for the link. What can I get rid of as a result. I'm going to get SLP headers real soon, so can I get the ones without AIR? Can I get rid of that dumb little black box thing then too? Or is that a part of the heater and cooling system? Does anyone have pictures of the parts I can get rid of? That way I'll know what we can leave off?

[This message has been edited by 90Iroc (edited April 30, 2001).]

 

?

 

The box comes out along with the pump.

 

You will need to use a radiator bypass cap on each of the manifold tubes. Under deceleration, there is a vaccum in the exhaust that will draw air into the manifolds and cause very bad backfires that can blow apart your exhaust. Everything else can be taken out, just save it, don't throw it out. Never know when you will need to out it back.

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89 Transam GTA, 350TPI, auto, 3.27 rear, dual cats, gray.
Magnaflow cat-back,
K&N open element,
Best E.T. 14.63@95mph

 

Would getting SLP headers without AIR solve the problem of capping the manifolds? I don't rightly understand what you meant by that, unless you mean cap off the AIR lines where the hose used to connect to. Is that it? I don't even know what a radiator bypass cap is. (well, I think I might know) Are they the plugs in the radiator that a five speed would have where a hose would go for an auto tranny car?

 

Here's another question on top of all the others I need answers to: Does the AIR system work in conjunction at all with the EGR system?

 

To answer your question, yes, getting the slp headers without the A.I.R. tubes will solve the problem. And, yes, I was talking about plugging the stainless steel tube on the manifold where the rubber hoses would connect.

A radiator bypass cap is for a radiator on a car that does not have the engine oil cooler. There is a 1" diameter fitting on the radiator that the coolant line to the oil cooler connects to. It's a rubber cap that you attach with a hose clamp.

The EGR is in no way related to the A.I.R system.

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89 Transam GTA, 350TPI, auto, 3.27 rear, dual cats, gray.
Magnaflow cat-back,
K&N open element,
Best E.T. 14.63@95mph

 

Thanks for all the input TRANSAMGTA350 and Pete and Chuck! I hope I've got all the facts now. I'll run this all by my dad and see what he thinks.
Thanks
Brandon


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Modifications list on my Iroc:
Engine Specifications and Relevant Information
Displacement: 305 Cubic Inches (5.0 Liter)
Induction: Tuned Port Injection
Rear Axle Ratio: 3.42:1
Transmission: Borg Warner World Class T-5 Manual
G92 Performance Package
N10 Dual Catalytic Converters
Z28 Performance Package
Engine Modifications:
K&N Conical Throttle Body Clamp-on Air Filter
160 Degree Thermostat
Secondary Fan Switch By-Pass
MSD Cap, Coil, 8.5mm Wires, Rotor, and 6A Ignition
Accel HEI Module
JET Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
JET Fan Switch
Quaker State Hi-Performance Oil
Computer Modification:
Ed Wright (Fastchip.com) Stage 2 Performance Chip
Interior Modifications:
Macewen White Gauge Face Overlays
Auto Meter Phantom Oil Pressure Gauge in A-Pillar
Hurst Comp/Plus Shifter
Kenwood CD player and 7x10's Mounted in Rear Cargo Well
Exhaust Modifications:
Gutted Catalytic Converters
3" Intermediate Pipe
Flowmaster Crossflow Muffler
3" Chrome Tail Pipes
Suspension Modifications:
Addco Sway Bar End Links (Polyurethane)
Gabriel Hi-Jacker Air Shocks (Rear)
(Will soon install a Spohn Tubular Panhard Bar)
Exterior Modifications:
5% Window Tint
GTS Taillight Blackouts
Black GTA rims
Best 1/4 Mile Dragstrip Pass To Date:
Solo:14.739 Seconds @ 94.42 MPH
With Passenger:15.009 Seonds @ 93.51 MPH
A Run of 14.5 Is Possible, But I Have to Wait for My Shifter Springs to Arrive (Mine Are Missing for Some Reason). The Run I Know Which Should Have Achieved This Was Against a Mustang Who Ran a 14.865. I Was Ahead By An Entire Car-Length the Entire Run Until My shifter Hit the Gate For Fourth Gear, Causing Me to Miss the Gear and Grab a Very Disappointing 15.810. What Makes This Story Even Worse to Tell, Is The Fact That I Believe I Had My Best Reaction Time On This Run; a .605 Second Reaction.

 

One more question left now, (sorry guys). There's an electrical connection coming from out of the black box that the AIR stuff goes onto. What can I do with that, or what do I do with it? What if I were to leave that unhooked?

 

You can leave it unhooked. No codes or problems will happen.

 

Thanks Joel!!!