Who makes the best fuel pressure regulator (FPR), and why... (Please dont say brand xxx just sux.) give me reasons.

Or are they all the same with different names. Or is it a you get what you pay for/you pay for what you get situation???

I am buying a FPR soon and want the best.

thanks

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87 Formula 5.1 converted to TPI Yellow/Black
SLP cam, headers, cat-back exhaust
Ported & polished TPI intake
Gil Younger (no yo-yo) Shift Kit
Aluminum Driveshaft
3.73 Posi gear
Baer 12" brakes 4 wheels
KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks & struts
Hotchkis strut tower brace
South side machine frame connecters
Custom reinforced control arms and pan hard bar.
Custom Leather interior
CUSTOM Yellow Gauge Faces

87 Formula TPI (5 Speed) Yellow/Gray STOCK

1967 Buick Riviera 430hp Turns high 14's (Not bad for 4300 lbs)

83 Camaro (Parts)
83 T/A (parts)

http://www.3rdgenformula.com

Thay all work the same way so go with the cheapest one you can find. The only one I would stay away from is TPIS I have heard many people say the the vac. tube brakes easly.

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1991 Z28 ZZ4 with LPE superram base, SLP runners, LPE 58mm T-body,Random Technology ramair,TES headers,24#svo injectors,and just about every other bolt on that there is. Just got a ZEX nitrous kit!

I can only speak from experience, but I would not recommend the Accel one, I had one and had nothing but problems keeping steady fuel pressure with it. Every time the car was restarted it would creep up little by little until it was puffing black smoke. I currently have a TPIS one and I couldnt be happier.

Been looking at the BBK or the Crane Cams one...


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87 Formula 5.1 converted to TPI Yellow/Black
SLP cam, headers, cat-back exhaust
Ported & polished TPI intake
Gil Younger (no yo-yo) Shift Kit
Aluminum Driveshaft
3.73 Posi gear
Baer 12" brakes 4 wheels
KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks & struts
Hotchkis strut tower brace
South side machine frame connecters
Custom reinforced control arms and pan hard bar.
Custom Leather interior
CUSTOM Yellow Gauge Faces

87 Formula TPI (5 Speed) Yellow/Gray STOCK

1967 Buick Riviera 430hp Turns high 14's (Not bad for 4300 lbs)

83 Camaro (Parts)
83 T/A (parts)

http://www.3rdgenformula.com

I already did the research for you...get the holley one. Price is comparable to any of the others, and from everything i have read it is far and away teh easiest to adjust, as you can actually turn it by hand.
While you may find some people who don't complain about their brand xxx, there are at least as many for any brand that complain about cheap vacuum ports, too long adjustment screws hitting the plenum, impossible access to the adjusting screw, etc. Nobody with a holley AFPR has a single complaint.

edit...just thought i'd add that i personally said screw an AFPR, and put some change in the FPR to bump the pressure, and i'll do my tuning where it belongs, in the chip.

------------------
Ed Maher - Moderator @ The Carb Board
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
LB9 4L60 GU2 G80 - stock, soon to be sleeper
-=ICON Motorsports=-

- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die

[This message has been edited by Ed Maher (edited June 15, 2001).]

If you must have a AFPR,
Get a AFPR that has a locking screw..several people Ive read their threads on other forums say the screw backs off sometimes on some brands...BPP makes them with a locking screw to set the pressure and keep it there.

However, I dont believe in running a AFPR...like a airfoil its a waste of money.Its not until you have extensive mods that you maythen benfeit from something like those basic bolt on items.

I read alot on them, and several TPI tuners says they dont really give you any gains or benefit on a stock or lightly modded engine.
The real programming lies in the chip tuning.
They say the AFPR is a good tuning aid..for example, bump the pressure up at the track where you know it wiill give you a few ponies at that pressure setting, but when you drive home, put it back to stock.
If you run lean on top end, the AFPR might help correct that with higher pressures.

I have some small mods done to my 357 TPI Vette and Im still running the stock FPR from GM...I just read too many negative stories about them on engine thats dont warrant one I stayed away from them too.
GMs FPR are a little better now when they came out..when I bought mine last year to add to my rebuilt engine, the new part number was an upgrade for a little more pressure.

For those who feel they had success with their AFPR, thats great..no flames here please..some engines can benefit and some wont..no TPI seems to run 100% the same..
which is why aside from bolt on mods, the final put together for your mods will run great with the right chip.

Btw, I checked my mods and my prom info..the car runs a little bit on the rich side even with the stock GM FPR...
Im going to try a little prom tuning by someone I know to see if they can get even better tables then whats in the chip to match my mods..
Use a scanner and study the injector pulse width, O2 readings and MAF grams if equipped,etc and see how the car is running in closed loop and etc.

If youre already running a bit rich, bumping up pressure may not be good...however leaning it out somewhat might help if youre already too much on the rich side.
If Im off on any info, pls go ahead and correct me...I can always learn a little more from you guys too.
I just dont like seeing near stock engines get wasted mods and or people buying and throwing good money away on parts they dont really need..Ive done it before and all I did was lighten my wallet a bit.

Wel;l since your posting, im guessing you are going to buy an afpr anyway. So i can say this from experience. TPIS sucks the vac tube falss off and its a pain in the *** to get it back on correctly. I now have holley and it the best one out there in my opinion. The vac tube is on there securely and the dial on top is eay to turn so you dont need tools to adjust it, and the dial never loosens on me so it keeps the same constant fp. Later

Well, since i have some mods, cam, higher compression, ported intake etc, I decided to go with a AFPR. I took your advise and paid (almost 1 1/2x) for the holley, but I trust Holley they have been around for a while.

I appreciate the help, I was going to go with the BBK, but I figure "do it once, do it right"...

I also bought the Comp Polimers TPI air Foil & K&N air filter...

thanx again


------------------
87 Formula 5.1 converted to TPI Yellow/Black
SLP cam, headers, cat-back exhaust
Ported & polished TPI intake
Gil Younger (no yo-yo) Shift Kit
Aluminum Driveshaft
3.73 Posi gear
Baer 12" brakes 4 wheels
KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks & struts
Hotchkis strut tower brace
South side machine frame connecters
Custom reinforced control arms and pan hard bar.
Custom Leather interior
CUSTOM Yellow Gauge Faces

87 Formula TPI (5 Speed) Yellow/Gray STOCK

1967 Buick Riviera 430hp Turns high 14's (Not bad for 4300 lbs)

83 Camaro (Parts)
83 T/A (parts)

http://www.3rdgenformula.com

I had a TPIS AFPR on my 88 Vette.

My opinion: IT SUCKS

The vacuum port comes unscrewed and falls off. A drop of locktite fixed it.


The screw backs off. A little spring around it to keep tension fixed that.

I am getting a Holley for my IROC.

Where did you guys buy yours from, and how much??

Thanks

Sig check.......




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Mike L.

"If it feels good - stay in it "

1987 IROC Z TPI 350 A4 3.27 Borg-Warner.

Mods: 2300-2500 Stall Converter, Shift Kit(GM parts), TPI Specialties Stage 3 PROM, Modified Airbox w/ K&N's, homemade cold air, Relocated MAT sensor, Gutted MAF, 160* thermostat, Accel 8mm Wires, bypassed TB coolant, Flowmaster 3 chamber single 3" in/out muffler, 3" MAC mandrel intermediate, custom dual !cat Y-pipe. airfoil, ported plenum. !smog

http://www.MichaelLasiuta.home.att.net

**BOYCOTT LAPEER DRAGWAY**

TPISucks
vacuum port breaks off very very easy. not worth 90$

I just bought a Crane AFPR from the TGO Classifieds yesterday. Has anyone had any problems with it I should know about? (i.e. Plenum interference.)

As far as a stock 350 TPI not getting any power out of a AFPR -the following chart shows what kind of power(dynoed-rwhp)and torque to expect from the following fuel pressure increases to 46psi and 50psi. This is posted in the TGO FAQ section.

<FONT SIZE=+2 COLOR="red">Q:</FONT> What fuel pressure setting will give me the best performance?

<FONT SIZE=+2 COLOR="red">A:</FONT> The stock setting is 42 PSI. Much track testing has showed that any type of
increase will greatly benefit both horse power and torque. Here's some dyno
testing on a stock 350 motor which substantiates those claims:
<FONT COLOR="red"><pre>
42 PSI (stock) 46 PSI 50 PSI
RPM Torq HP Torq/diff HP/diff Torq/diff HP/diff
------------------------------------------------------------------------
2250 237.7 101.8 254.9/17.2 109.2/ 7.4 275.0/37.3 117.8/16.0
2500 241.7 115.1 262.1/20.4 124.8/ 9.7 283.3/41.6 134.9/19.8
2750 241.5 126.5 275.2/33.7 144.1/17.6 297.0/55.5 155.5/29.0
3000 237.1 135.4 278.2/41.1 158.9/23.5 305.5/68.4 174.5/39.1
3250 233.8 144.7 278.9/45.1 172.6/27.9 311.3/77.5 192.6/47.9
3500 241.0 160.6 278.2/37.2 185.4/24.8 309.5/68.5 206.3/45.7
3750 246.6 176.1 283.4/36.8 202.4/26.8 303.3/56.7 216.6/40.5
4000 250.4 190.7 278.3/27.9 212.0/21.3 298.0/47.6 227.0/36.3
4250 251.6 203.6 272.5/20.9 220.5/16.9 289.1/37.5 233.9/30.3
4500 253.5 217.2 257.3/ 4.2 220.5/ 3.3 277.0/23.5 237.3/20.1
4750 245.0 221.6 242.1/-2.9 219.0/-2.6 266.4/21.4 240.9/19.3
5000 227.6 216.7 225.0/-1.4 214.2/-2.5 237.8/10.2 226.4/ 9.7
</pre></font>
It shows that by increasing the fuel pressure to 50 PSI, results in maximum
torque increase of 58 ft-lbs (along with a much flatter torque curve) and
a maximum horse power increase of 19 HP over stock. 46 PSI also provides a
noticable increase which should work well for day-to-day street driving.
An adjustable fuel pressure regulator (see Chap 5.2) is required to increase
the fuel pressure.


<FONT SIZE=+2 COLOR="red">Q:</FONT> How do I correctly set the fuel pressure on my new adjustable fuel pressure regulator?


<FONT SIZE=+2 COLOR="red">A:</FONT> The correct way to adjust your fuel pressure is with the vaccum line of the fuel regulator disconnected. The instructions with many adjustable fuel regulators don't tell you to do this, but it is essential! You must remove and plug the vaccum line going to the regulator or you will be getting false readings, similar to adjusting the timing on vacuum advance distributor. What you are attempting to do is set the maximum fuel pressure. At idle, fuel pressure is reduced due to high vacuum, so the presence of the vacuum line is detremental to fuel pressure. Repeat the process until you have the desired reading.




[This message has been edited by whiteroc (edited June 22, 2001).]

I have got crane and have no complaints here. But I did add a locking nut to prevent the screw from backing out.

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89 Iroc 350 TPI,
Forged pistions
Comp roller Cam .510 lift 230dur
Flowmaster exhaust
Dart Iron Eagle heads 200cc runners 64cc chambers
MINI RAM SOON!!!!!
stock TPI for now 24# inj
87 Trans Am GTA 350 TPI
had engine fire hope to get running soon
Flowmaster exhaust

I bought a Holley FPR because I thought it would be easy to adjust by hand. The only problem was when I installed it, the plenum was touching the adjustable ****. Even with the **** screwed all the way in the plenum bolts wouldn’t line up correctly. I ended up buying a bolt to replace the **** so go figure, the Holley is like any other AFPR.

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1988 Trans AM GTA 350 TPI: SLP 1 3/4 Headers, Edelbrock Exhaust, ASM Runners, Accel Base, Ported Plenum, 52mm BBK TB, SLP Air Foil, TB Coolant by Pass, Holley AFPR, Hypertech Thermomaster Chip + Fan Switch + 180 Thermostat, K&N Filter, Modified Air Box + MAF, MSD 8.5 mm Plug Wires

Increasing fuel pressure has been proven to give a better spray pattern from the injector, hence, more power. Maybe not much, but any is good. In closed loop, the computer can compensate for the increased pressure. In open loop, you may run a little rich, and prom tuning is in order.

I installed the TPIS AFPR and immmediately had better throttle response, and fuel economy jumped two points as well. I have had no problems with pressure creep, or breakage.

Someone paid $90 for an AFPR from TPIS???? They must have really raised the price, I paid less than 40 for mine from them. Wow.