What is involved in a cam swap?
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 472
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From: DC Metro area
Car: 91 Camaro Z/28
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: TH700-R4
What is involved in a cam swap?
I've never done a cam swap on a F-body(any american v8 for that matter) before and was wondering what was invovled?
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91 Camaro Z/28 5.7
SLP catback
SLP runners
SLP 1 5/8" headers
TPIS airfoil
160 degree thermostat
Rebuilt 700R4(borg warner/raybestos clutches,Kevlar band,vette servo)
B&M 2400 stall torque converter
Paxton SN92 Supercharger
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91 Camaro Z/28 5.7
SLP catback
SLP runners
SLP 1 5/8" headers
TPIS airfoil
160 degree thermostat
Rebuilt 700R4(borg warner/raybestos clutches,Kevlar band,vette servo)
B&M 2400 stall torque converter
Paxton SN92 Supercharger
Drain cooling system/oil. Remove intake, radiator, condenser, crank pulley, harmonic balancer(need a puller), water pump, pushrods, lifters, rockers, timing chain, gears, old cam. Lube up new cam, stick it in, clean everything very well, replacing timing cover and gaskets, water pump gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, rtv top of block under intake manifold front/rear. Bolt up everything, break in the cam 1500~2000rpms for 20 minutes, use castrol super clean on garage
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
From: DC Metro area
Car: 91 Camaro Z/28
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: TH700-R4
So I wouldn't need to pull the engine to swap out the cam?
------------------
91 Camaro Z/28 5.7
SLP catback
SLP runners
SLP 1 5/8" headers
TPIS airfoil
160 degree thermostat
Rebuilt 700R4(borg warner/raybestos clutches,Kevlar band,vette servo)
B&M 2400 stall torque converter
Paxton SN92 Supercharger
------------------
91 Camaro Z/28 5.7
SLP catback
SLP runners
SLP 1 5/8" headers
TPIS airfoil
160 degree thermostat
Rebuilt 700R4(borg warner/raybestos clutches,Kevlar band,vette servo)
B&M 2400 stall torque converter
Paxton SN92 Supercharger
no, you don't. I don't know about other peoples cars, but the front of my car has a piece of plastic that has a little door that you open and it gives you just enough room to slip out the cam. I love working on Chevys
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1991 Z28 305 5spd 1LE, TES headers, dual cats, 3 Chamber flowmaster, Comp cams .488/.495 212/218, 187 head castings with bigger valves, self-burned eproms.
All work done by myself, and proud of it!
SOON TO COME 327 Miniram (3/2002) PARTS NEEDED:Titanium valvetrain parts, stud girdles, fluidampnr, miniram, bulletproof bellhousing, MONEY(im in college).
Find a .bin on the internet and want it burned? I'll do it for you!
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1991 Z28 305 5spd 1LE, TES headers, dual cats, 3 Chamber flowmaster, Comp cams .488/.495 212/218, 187 head castings with bigger valves, self-burned eproms.
All work done by myself, and proud of it!
SOON TO COME 327 Miniram (3/2002) PARTS NEEDED:Titanium valvetrain parts, stud girdles, fluidampnr, miniram, bulletproof bellhousing, MONEY(im in college).
Find a .bin on the internet and want it burned? I'll do it for you!
Senior Member


Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 629
Likes: 10
From: New Yuck
Car: Non F-body :(
Engine: Pontiac 301
Transmission: TH350
It makes sense to degree a cam. Summit sells a fairly inexpensive degree kit that should do the trick for a street motor.
And you don't need to break in a roller cam. They don't wear like flat tappet cams do.
And you don't need to break in a roller cam. They don't wear like flat tappet cams do.
Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
From: Uppsala, Sweden
Car: Camaro IROC-Z '89
Engine: 350 TPI /w Procharger P1SC
Transmission: TH700R4 with Transgo shiftkit
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by afgun:
It makes sense to degree a cam. Summit sells a fairly inexpensive degree kit that should do the trick for a street motor.
And you don't need to break in a roller cam. They don't wear like flat tappet cams do.</font>
It makes sense to degree a cam. Summit sells a fairly inexpensive degree kit that should do the trick for a street motor.
And you don't need to break in a roller cam. They don't wear like flat tappet cams do.</font>
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ZaphodB a.k.a Carl Andersson - zaphodb@faxancruisers.org
'89 Camaro IROC-Z 5.7L TPI - Mods under construction :-)
Custom ARAP Chip Under Development/180 t-stat, Edelbrock TES Headers,
SLP Airfoil, K&N Filters, Accel 8mm wires, Relocated MAT, AFPR @ 45 PSI
Trending Topics
No, only 87 and up blocks. Tpi started with the corvette in 85. An 89 camaro should have a roller block. Having the #1 cylinder at tdc before you start could help to line up timing marks and such.
Is it necessary to raise the engine and drop the oil pan? It says this is needed in my Haynes manual, but some people say this is not necessary. I've got an 89, and I'm confused now.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Car: Damn
Engine: This
Transmission: New Stuff
They tell you to riase the engine and drop the pan so you can pull the front timing cover off. Really all you need to do is loosen the oil pan bolts enough to clear the lip on the timing cover, don't take it off- well unless you want to.
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'88 RS (originally 2.8)
-350, .040 over, vette alum. L98s, stock tpi.
-305 injectors & chip
-TES headers & edelbrock cat back
-3.73 gears, 700r4.
Best with 2.8-17.4@77mph
Best with 305-15.0@93mph
Best with 356-13.7@101mph
on a 2.050 60 ft.
(Damn the 2.8!)
[This message has been edited by '87FAKE-IROC-Z (edited August 10, 2001).]
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'88 RS (originally 2.8)
-350, .040 over, vette alum. L98s, stock tpi.
-305 injectors & chip
-TES headers & edelbrock cat back
-3.73 gears, 700r4.
Best with 2.8-17.4@77mph
Best with 305-15.0@93mph
Best with 356-13.7@101mph
on a 2.050 60 ft.
(Damn the 2.8!)
[This message has been edited by '87FAKE-IROC-Z (edited August 10, 2001).]
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