I have an 85 Z28...does it have an ignition switch? if so how do i get to it?

My headlights and interioir lights come on...but when i turn the key..niothing happens. not a sound


what is it?

HELP!

 

could be a fuse

 

will it start if u put it in neutral? could maybe be ur starter, or a relay, i don't know if f-bodies have an ignition relay. but see if it starts in neutral

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- David
88' GTA 350 MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT

 

Does this happen all of the time or only when the car is hot? I had a similar problem and it was my starter selenoid was getting too hot. I bought a remote mount selenoid from summit for $20 and fixed the problem.

If you want to replace the ignition switch it is on top of the steering column and is a PITA to do. I would recommend that if you dontknow what you are doing to let a shop or something change that for you.

Good luck

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*1989 RS
*Red, Daytona Turbo fiberglass hood, chrome 16x8 IROC wheels
*355 CID
*TPI ported plenum, SLP siamesed runners, Edelbrock high flow intake
*Edelbrock TES Headers (getting SLP 1 3/4 this summer)
*Richmond 3.73, Auburn Posi
*Modded 700-R4, 2800 stall converter
*NO recent time slips.

 

car is ice cold...Ill try nuatral...all fuses are cool in the box...any other fuses i need to check?

it may be the ignition switch..everyone seems to think it...Im broke *** ...so i need to fix it myself...so any info on how to get to it...or the exact location...i took half the steering column apart and got to the section w/ all the gadgets (ignition blinker n such)

and i couldnt figure out how to get into that or around it..

 

wont start in nuetral either

 

isn't there some relays he should check? or could it be his starter is totaly toast? OR could it be VATS?

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- David
88' GTA 350 MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT

 

what are the Vats and where are they...i dont have 50-60 dollers to get it checked...kinda sucks..

if my altenator is toast it should still start up right?

off the batt...the alt just charges it

 

could it be a piece in the distributor?

 

The Vehicle Anti-Theft System(V.A.T.S.) was not used until 1989. Since your Camaro, being a 85, I would say it is safe to assume your car does not have this feature.

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88' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4

[This message has been edited by mystikkal_69 (edited September 07, 2001).]

 

Grab a friend, and try this.....

On the starter, there is a purple wire that goes to the "s" terminal on the solenoid. Disconnect this wire, and hook a volt meter to it. (one lead goes to the wire, the other lead goes to ground, anywhere on the block should be good) Have your friend turn the key to start, and see if you get voltage on the purple wire, if you do, replace the starter. If you dont, check the ignition switch, you should be able to stick the + probe into the socket for the purple wire, and then use any metal surface as a ground, turn the key to start, if you get power here, need to fix open in the purple wire, if not, check and see if you can adjust the ignition switch (move it further up on the column, so the actuator rod "pushes" further into the switch.) If you get voltage now, hook everything back up, and you should be good to go, if not, replace the ignition switch.

 

well on to your problem. when you turn the key to acessory postion does your radio work? if so i believe #67 the Ignition Swtich could be the culprit. I had a similar problem on 86' everthing worked radio etc... but it would not start. All i did is Replace the switch, adjusted it and it worked again.

Here's the exploded diagram of the steering column with text. Copy and paste it if it dose not work. Damn Geocities

http://www.geocities.com/mystikkal_6.../steering2.gif

http://www.geocities.com/mystikkal_6.../steering1.gif


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88' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4

[This message has been edited by mystikkal_69 (edited September 07, 2001).]

 

Thanks Im goping to try and push the ignition switch up...

thanks fo rhte diagrams to..Ive been looking all over for them...

what about a fuseable wire?

 

OK..I have a new altenator in...

so if the voltage regulator was out and i was driving it around slow anyway...what damage would that do to?

Im going to mess with the switch if i can find it...

 

I removed the kick panel...lots of wires...do i have to remove the 4 bolts and pull the entire column out?

i think i see the ignition switch to...its white plastic...

 

my 88 GTA has VATS.

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series

[This message has been edited by breathment (edited September 07, 2001).]

 

ok, a fuseable wire is a wire that acts like a fuse. instead of a fuse blowing, the wire like melts or something, well anyways, thats what i convinced myself they are. someone correct me if im wrong. usualy im pretty sure they say fuse link on the wires themselves.



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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series

 

whoops. my mistake i meant 88 hehe

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88' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4

 

Ok i have the diagrams...I see the ignition switch there...but still cant figure out how to get to it...

couldnt make it easy could they

my head...*kicks car*

cant figure out how to get the column down or out

 

try turning the key to the on position, then get a big screwdriver and touch the two terminals on the starter together to jump it, if it turns over or starts then your switch or a relay is out.

 

ok Ill give it a try...

by the way...thanks for all the help guys..

 

Ok new ignition switch in...

still not doing anything...

no accesories...no start...

any ideas guys?

 

PKZ,

Just a suggestion - always diagnose before you replace parts. The money you spent on an ignition switch could have bought a cheap digital voltmeter, and you could have your problem solved by now.

The alternator would not prevent you from starting the engine unless you had a failed rectifier which was discharging the battery. You may have wasted you time and money on the alternator. Now you could have a better meter.

If you want to check the fusible links near the battery, you can penetrate the wire insulation at either and of the likns and measure voltage. A blown link will have voltage at only one end. There may also be a fusible link near the starter.

Do any of the electrical items operate, like lights, horn? Is the battery fully charged?

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Click - Click - BOOM!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

voltage reg was out..so i changed the altenator...then the car died.

the lights come on...but nothing else.. accesrories or starting...

i was thinking starter...but the radio n such should work when the keys turned...

 

I know htere is a fuse labeled crank in the fuse panel. Check all the fuses. Also as mentiuoned up above there are fusible links on the way to your starter. If you follow the wires to the starter you will se that the ones that connect to the starter are smaller gauge than the wire coming from the firewall. feel the wires that touch the starter with your hand if it feels brittle or broken in any spots then that is your problem. It happened tome so give it a try.

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, 16" IROC rims and ASCD SS hood.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames,
T-56 almost ready to go in, TPI swap coming up

Wifes new car:

95Z28, AT, leather, T-tops bone stock for now.

future mods:
header to tailpipe replacement and a cold air intake. Then I am just going to leave it alone

 

Thanks alot guys...ive narrowed it down to what i think is a fuseable link problem...I fyou have any more suggestions tho post em...cuz it isnt fixed yet...

 

ok guys, IS THERE any relays? Im just curious cause this happend on my parents Plymouth Acclaim, sometimes it would start, and sometimes it wouldn't, one day they turned the key any NOTHING happend, but yet the lights and stuff all worked, but i noticed that the gauges and radio didn't work, turned out that a wire from one of the relays got cut and caused us alot of problems and we even spent $70 on all the relays just because of a cut wire, so CHECK ALL YOUR wires, move them and make sure that they're not cut or something where u can really see.

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series

 

thanks ill check those to...where was it on your car?

hopefully not in the dash...im going to betr its under the hood

 

Did you test everything that the other guys have suggested? Its kinda pointless to suggest further ideas if we don't know if the other ideas have failed or worked at all.


Brendan

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1987 IROC-Z L98,SR,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 SR Cam, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, Stock T5, 30lb SVO, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Prop Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Weld in Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis LCA's, KYB Shocks/Struts, Poly Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm, Big stereo, 730SD Conversion.

To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here

 

Tried everything...so I figure it must be a fuseable link under the hood

 

I'm ignorant when it comes to camaro history but on my friend's 88 IROC he had a similar problem; he would turn the key but nothing at all. after changing the starter and battery, we discovered it was actually a clutch depress button (yeah...the one that makes it so the car can't be started without the clutch pressed in...)

of course that assumes that yours has a standard transmission... if not, at least i jumped in the fire

 

Its an auto...but thanks..

Im putting her up on stands today..

replace everything between the batt...the starter and ignition...

if that doesnt fix it...I may have a bonfire..:P

 

Ok...I checked sooooo many wires...

cant find a bad one...

cant find the fuseable link...

is it under the dash? hood?

 

I remember something like that happened to my 91. I changed the alternator and everything was fine for a few days until the starter went out too.

 

Did you check for correct voltages going into and coming out of your ign sw? You can probably get a service manual at the library and reference a wiring diagram. If not I can send you what you need to know... I've got a 1985 T/A which should be identical. I'll look up the wire colors and voltages in my service manual if you need.

 

I bought the chilton manual...i went through alot of wires...replaced alot of them...checked all connections and even tested the batt, starter, and the altenator is new. the ignition switch works...

I have no idea...

looks like Ill be towing her to a electrician

 

Check the wires inside the steering column, sometimes if the car had attempted thefts they might damage some of the wiring in there, happened to my RS. Just a though.

------------------
1989 Trans Am GTA, L98 5.7L TPI, TH700-R4, T-Tops, dual cats, 9-bolt rear, 3.27, Dynomax muffler, K&N
1992 Camaro RS, LO3 5.0L TBI, T-5, T-Tops, 3.08, L69 Dual Snorkel, K&N - Sold

Honda engines ROCK, I have one on my lawn mower but I still have to push it.

 

...all were checked...I going to take her to a shop tommarow...ahve them fight with it..i just dont have the time..or know how.

Thanks for all your help guys.

long live domestics

 

did jumping the terminals of the starter with a screw driver make the starter turn the motor over?

 

nope
...

and i took the starter and had it tested and it was fine.

i dunno whats wrong...i wish i cold figure it out myself.

 

I had a problem with my car not starting all the time which got worse until it didn't start at all. I checked everything, and replaced the VATS. It turned out to be the starter solenoid. I had it checked, and then had it rechecked. It would turn over when tested, but the shop took it apart and the solenoid was worn, so it was replaced. The car started right up and has been fine since. Maybe you have a similar problem.

 

hmmm...maybe..woud it show up when they plug it in?

 

Well, since the car is too old to have VATS, it does not have anything in the cranking system other than the ignition switch and the starter relay(solenoid) to control starting. The other componants in the system are the starter and the battery. So you know for sure that the battery, starter, starter solenoid, and ignition switch are OK since you had them tested and/or replaced. That leaves only wiring and protection devices (fuses and fusible links) as possible culprits. If I recall correctly, the car will have two fusible links going to the starter solenoid - one to the S terminal and one on the main battery cable post. These protect the ignition switch directly from damage and the entire system from burning up the car if a problem exists. The problem with older fusible links(newer ones are much better) is that they are made of such a brittle material by design that they don't last long (relatively speaking). So I would take a long and hard look at those two fusible links that go to the starter solenoid. Try pulling on them as they may look pristine but be corroded and falling apart underneath the insulation.

Some ideas.......

Good Luck.

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1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23* Heads, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake base, SLP Siam Runners, BBK 52mm TB, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, CAI w/K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, ARAP, 2400 stall, Alum. Driveshaft, Fourth Gen 3.42 Rear, Spohn LCAs and Panhard, Hotchkis STB, '99 Camaro seats.

G-tech time:
(w/ lotsa wheelspin)
13.45@109.3mph

 

thanks...

we were wondering where the fuseable links were...

we checked those wires and they were fine.. i hooked them to volt tester.

I hate wiring

 

Ok guys...heres what happened

I ended up taking it to a shop..it was a fuseable link in the package of wires behinf the block by the distributor...the only pack i couldnt get to with jack stands...

also the engine ground was missing...which didnt have much to do with not starting but now my altenator charges better...go figure.

thanks for everyones help..

"long live american muscle"