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Aluminum Dirveshaft. Worth It???

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Old Oct 12, 2001 | 01:09 AM
  #1  
JR4444's Avatar
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From: Tucson AZ USA
Aluminum Dirveshaft. Worth It???

Well thats my question, if you have one...could you feel the difference?
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Old Oct 12, 2001 | 04:17 AM
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JoelOl75's Avatar
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From: PA
Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
The only difference I noticed is the lack of vibration at +100mph speeds.

I'm running 4:10 gears so 100+ is really spinning that driveshaft!

As for a notice in performance or better 1/4 times.... none.

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Old Oct 12, 2001 | 03:38 PM
  #3  
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From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
I am of the same opinion, that the alum driveshaft probably did NOT help my 1/4 mile times much if anything noticable. More than likely where the benefit would come from is the fact that it has better balancing, and would vibrate less. When you get vibrations in your drivetrain you loose power because the energy is absorbed into the vibration rather than transfering the power to the rear wheels.

John

------------------
G O D BLESS AMERICA
87 Formula Yellow/Black

5.1 TPI Automatic
Baer 12" brakes 4 wheels, KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks & struts, Custom Leather interior, WAAAY TOO MANY MODS TO LIST

87 Formula TPI (5 Speed) Yellow/Gray STOCK

1967 Buick Riviera 430hp Turns high 14's (Not bad for 4300 lbs)

83 Camaro
83 T/A

http://www.3rdgenformula.com
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Old Oct 12, 2001 | 04:02 PM
  #4  
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From: Lima, Ohio
I think it helped a little, it weighs less, as mentioned before, its balanced better, having it weigh less means the engine has to turn less weigh so you won't be loosing as much power(which probly isn't a WHOLE lot..)
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Old Oct 12, 2001 | 09:02 PM
  #5  
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From: Key West, Florida!
Car: 89RSconvtZZ4TPI
Engine: ZZ4TPI
Transmission: 700R4 TRIPP TRANNY
Even though the aluminum shaft only weighs a little less than the stock shaft, when you rotate a mass at high speed, it creates weight. I forget but for every pound of "rotating" mass you reduce, you mulitply the weight by like 8. So lightweight drag skinnies are a big savings at the track. Same thing with light-weight flywheels, aluminum brake drums etc. I can tell the difference in my 92 Z28 convt 5spd when I have the aluminum shaft in vice the steel one. The reduced mass allows the engine to spool up faster etc. I firmly believe it's a worthwhile modification.

------------------
Rob P
89RSconvtZZ4TPI Edelbrock Intake
SLP Dual Cold Air Intake 1 5/8" Headers Semi-Siamesed Runners, IROC
suspension, alum shaft. Numerous mods.
92Z28convt5spd (stock)
71Impala convt 402BB
BETTER DRIVING THRU SUPERIOR HORSEPOWER!
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Old Oct 13, 2001 | 12:08 AM
  #6  
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From: Kcender, Alabama
Velocity = Inertia x Radius (V=IR) is the equation for a rotational mass. Mass is a component of Intertia; therefore to keep the equation constant as mass increases then velocity must increase to maintain the same rotational speed. Lighter driveshaft results in less work the engine must do to produce the same rotational velocity. Any savings in HP loss between the engine and rear wheels is a plus. Look on E-bay. One sold last week for $100.00.

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Old Oct 14, 2001 | 12:36 AM
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From: Annapolis, Md USA
I'm unsure how much stock driveshafts' weigh on your vehicle but it will be less rotating weight and also it will definately help with vibration issues.

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'98 Mustang GT

My 98 GT

Mods: Vortech S trim, 42# inj, 5.4 Heads (ported/polished), custom ground cams, 99 intake, ATI 3 corer intercooler, Walbro 255 intank pump, Walbro 255 inline pump, Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator #13102, NO FMU!, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, Steeda heavy duty LCA's, Steeda heavy duty UCA's, Steeda Chrome Moly subframes w/cross-brace, Steeda Cobra R hood (2 1/2" cowl), BBK 75mm TB, Pro M 80mm MAF, Eibach progressive springs, K&N Air, Cobra "R" rims, 31 spline Moser axles, SVO differential, Downs rear Girdle, FMS 3.73 gears, Cobra floor mats, Cobra leather shift ****, "A" pillar (Phantom White Gauges and custom gauge pod), Steeda race pedals, Mac offroad "H" pipe, hi-flo cats, and Borla XR1 catback.

Dyno #'s: 298.2rwhp/332.8rwtq (running rich 9:1 a/f)

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Mods not installed: 3 core intercooler, ditching the FMU!
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Old Oct 14, 2001 | 09:36 AM
  #8  
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
besides the less rotating mass and being better balanced it looks cool when you work underneath the car

------------------
86',88',89' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4

94' Formula, LT1, 6spd

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Old Oct 17, 2001 | 10:19 AM
  #9  
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From: Warsaw, Indiana
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 427 LSX
Transmission: Turbo 400
It took a vortech s trim to go 13.4 in a mudstain? I wish I had two cams.

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1991 Firebird
350 L98 (was a 305 TBI),T-5,Edelbrock TES and cat back,Accel manifold
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12.33 @ 114.83 juiced uncorrected

13.510 @ 102 non juiced uncorrected
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Old Oct 17, 2001 | 12:40 PM
  #10  
TPI Guy's Avatar
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Car: 1968 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Everybody talks a lot of smack about rotational mass. In accordance with conventional driveshaft engineering equations (I don't have my book with me, might be tau=Tc/J) the radius must increase due to the decreased stregth of aluminum.Somebody post the equation if you know it.

Therefore, by the equation for mass moment of inertia about the x axis, Ixx = Sum (mass)(r^2). Notice how the moment of inertia is more affected by radius than mass. Therefore, depending on the dimensions of the driveshaft, you might be doing more harm than good.

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355 c.i.
Dart 180 Heads
Lunati 224/224 cam
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Old Oct 17, 2001 | 08:51 PM
  #11  
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From: What?!? Am I still here?
Car: Mullitt mobile :)
Engine: it's stock LOL
Transmission: 700rJunk
Axle/Gears: 2 much 4 street not enough for strip
I have a TPIS aluminum driveshaft that I got off of a friends '96 TA. After running both at the track (similar weather conditions), I noticed no gain in performance. The aluminum driveshaft's diameter is 3.5" vs the stock one's 2.75(?). Vibrations are a little better with the AL shaft(but not much).

Definitely not worth the $300+ dollars he payed for it. I got it from him for $100, otherwise, I would have put my old one back in.

Sparks a flyin'
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