'87FAKE-IROC-Z

Hey Guys.
OK. I am just about ready to do the next round of mods. This is the parts list as it stands now.
-357 4-bolt roller
-AFR 190s-milled to 58cc 100% CNC ported-10:1 compression
-Ported Accel SuperRam, and ported Accel base
-Comp cam (my current one)210 220 dur. at .050, .513 .513 lift with 1.6 RRs, 112 lobe sep.
-Yank 3200 lock up converter
-3.27 gearing (or 3.73 if they hold together!)
-Ed Wright custom chip.

I will be using the TES 1 5/8 headers and the cam for now to save some cash, since i already have them.

I want to hit 12s (on drag radials) with this combo at around 108 with tuning. Does it look do-able with this combo?
thanx

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'88 RS (originally 2.8)
-350, .040 over, vette alum. L98s, stock tpi.
-305 injectors & chip
-TES headers & edelbrock cat back
-3.73 gears, 700r4.
Best with 2.8-17.4@77mph
Best with 305-15.0@93mph
Best with 356-13.7@101mph
on a 2.050 60 ft.
(Damn the 2.8!)


[This message has been edited by '87FAKE-IROC-Z (edited October 18, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by '87FAKE-IROC-Z (edited October 18, 2001).]

JETHROIROC

If the tuning and suspension are good you should be able to hit 12's. I would probably go with the 3.27 rear over a 3.73 for a SR with a 3200 stall converter. The 3.73 gears would probably be best for a setup like the MR with that stall speed. But, try both of them and let us know how it goes! Good luck.

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1990 IROC 350
Mods: Too busy trying to make it run right to mod it.
Airfoil, Dynomax cat-back, MSD coil, 180 t-stat, Bald Eagle tires,
Hypertech fan switch, Accel 23# injectors, Holley module, ported plenum,
Ported Daytona Yellow stock base, Moroso valve covers, other stuff,
Streetdampr, Ruger P95DC, hot wife, new oil filter, !cats, !TBC, !AIR.
18.0 @ 85MPH since I'm one big-a$$ MF
"It's better to have and not need than to need and not have."

IROCZZ3

Yes, see sig. I have almost the same setup as you except I run out of the box AFR 190s (70% CNC) milled to 58cc, unported SR and Accel base, weak ZZ3 cam, POS TCI 2200 stall, and 3.50 gears. I hit almost 109 but traction limited (street tires) so I'm not yet in the 12s, but the MPH shows it's potential. You have a better cam and torque converter than me...if you can cut 1.7 60 foots or better, mid 12s should be easy for you. You have the right motor to get you through the traps at over 109...you just need traction to run 12s.

I agree with Jethro...keep the 3.27s and run the Yank 3200 stall. You'll gain more with a better converter than with gears.


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1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'

[This message has been edited by IROCZZ3 (edited October 18, 2001).]

GregWestphal

iTrader: (1)

For only $200-250, I'd change the cam so you won't regret not doing it while the engine was apart and out of the car. The LT4 HOT cam is only $180 from any decent GM Perf. Parts dealer like Dal at VanDevere Olds. 3.42 gears would be a great gear for your combination, although the 3.73 gears won't have you maxing out the revs if you use a 26" tall tire like a 275/50R15 or 255/50R16. I agree that the converter will give you more gains than the gears. Oh, you'll want to start burning your own chips to really maximize your power and how well it runs.

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 355TPI/A4

'87FAKE-IROC-Z

First of all, Thanx for the replys guys.
I wouldn't mind changing the cam now- does the LT4 cam come with a distributor gear on it, all i have to do is tap that dowell in a little right?
Also, i am planning on going with the 3.27s for this setup-they're in my 9 bolt. The stall on the converter was matched to those gears, and I will enjoy cruising the highway with them opposed to the 3.73s.
But i will make a few runs with the 3.73s to see what happens, i don't know if that rear will hold with slicks, it already whines and clatters. I've never blown a rearend before, is it fun?

86 IROC

iTrader: (3)

First of all, what's wrong w/ 3.73 gears? The SR should pull to 5800 RPM, that's plenty of RPM for 3.73's. Second: why is everyone so hung up on the LT4 Hot cam? Every engine builder I've talked to told me that it is a bit big for a 350 or 355, & marginal for even a 383.

It just seems like 99% of the people on this board are all for the LT4 Hot Cam and down on 3.73 gears.

I have a Mini Ram on my 383 and only run 3.73 gears, but I would have run more gear if I planed on always being naturally asperated. My motor pulls to about 6400 RPM - now, if I get about 114-117 MPH in the 1/4 on a 26 tall ET Street.... I would only be turning about 5500-5600 RPM. It is standard practice to be about 300-500 RPM past your power peak when going through the traps for your best ET. Now, I understand that most of us don't have all out drag cars - but I honestly don't think 3.73's are a bad street gear for 80% of these cars.

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1986 IROC, fully loaded, Mini Ram'd 383, Art Carr 700R4, Accel DFI, 12 bolt rear, etc, etc......

Scott_92RS

Sounds like a nice combo. If you dont have the SuperRam yet, I can help you with that. I've got an Edelbrock base with SuperRam plenum and runners for sale. Let me know if you are interested.

GregWestphal

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the LT4 HOM cam has the correct distributor gear on it, and all you have to do it tap in the dowel pin.

Some people like the LT4 HOT cam because it makes some really good power with 350/355 engines with aftermarket TPI runners and/or manifolds. Plus it's $200 less than any TPIS cam and $70 less than a CompCam. 3.73 gears are just about optimal if you're really revving the engine and are running 26" (or taller) tire. I personally think they're too much for highway driving, but I guess my 2.73 (now have 3.42) gears spoiled me.

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 355TPI/A4

JETHROIROC

I recommended the 3.27 rear because he has a 3200 stall converter and is going SR. Were he using a MR, the 3.73s would be good. Make any sense?

'87FAKE-IROC-Z

Hey, chill out 86-there are reasons for everything man.
The reason for the 3.27s over my current 3.73 is that
1=the gears weren't installed very well and they whine and need to be reshimmed with new bearings and seals in the rear.
2-I do alot of highway driving and i can cut my cruising rpm down by about 500 rpm by going to 3.27s as well as increase milage-nice!
3-The 3.27s are in a 9-bolt which i won't have to worry about coming apart till i'm in the high 11s or so, the 10-bolt i have now might not last with slicks and that TC.
And about the LT4 hot cam- i believe its so popular because its very well priced and performs very well if your setup can take advantage of it. The superRam will love this cam, as will the heads i am using. As the others have said, it is a pain to regret not doing somehthing as easy as a $175 cam swap when the motot is out of the car. The cam i have now would work good too, but it won't make as good hp as the LT4 hot cam when it gets to 6000 plus rpm- it doesn't have the duration. So in my mind it is well spent money.
Scott-thanx anyway man but i have all the parts already.