Ok, so I'm having problem getting the damn intake bolts off my intake. 1st I break a torx bit on the first bolt. So I think it's just a cheap bit and go buy a different one. Bring it home and it snaps clean off too. I take it back and get a new one. Get the old bit piece out of the bolt. Buy an impact driver and try to use that to get the bolts loose. Break the impact driver on the first bolt w/out even making the bolt budge. So I go back to the wrench. Twist the end on the torx bit with the wrench. Now what??

I haven't tried heating the bolts yet. I might do that next. Does anyone know if the bolts actually thread into the intake... or do they just go through the intake and thread into the block?? If worse comes to worse I'll just drill all the bolts out. If they don't thread into the intake and just the block then the only think I'm gonna damage is the block. I've got new intake bolts and if I decide to put the 305 in another vehicle for some reason then I can just have a machine shop re-tap the bolt holes or I can do it myself.

Any thoughts or ideas??

 

Heating it may work. I had the same problem once, I had one of those bolts stuck so I had to take the cylinder head off with the intake attached. Then I ground the top of the bolt off and removed the rest from the head with a pair of vice grips. The bolts do not thread into the intake, they only run through it.

 

Thanks, I guess I'll try the heating thing next. If that don't work then it's drill time.

 

a rubber mallet works to some extent.i also use a tourqe wrench to get the extra leverage without snapping the bit

 

A rubber mallet wouldn't touch these bolts. Also, I used a break over bar too and that didn't work. So I don't think the torque wrench would either. Thanks though.

 

Like Rezinn said but only different. Try taking a dremel and grinding the head off the torx. Then lift the intake off and try applying the visegrips to the stud that will be left above the head. Also try the torch on the stud, better heat transfer.


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Rob P
89RSconvtZZ4TPI Edelbrock Intake
SLP Dual Cold Air Intake 1 5/8" Headers Semi-Siamesed Runners, IROC
suspension, alum shaft. Numerous mods.
92Z28convt5spd (stock)
71Impala convt 402BB
BETTER DRIVING THRU SUPERIOR HORSEPOWER!

 

And it just so happens that I have a Dremel. Thanks guys, off to wally world tomorrow for some dremel bits.

 

Just a little advice: NEVER use a torque wrench to remove a bolt. It completely throws the calibration of the tool off...... If you need extra leverage, get a breaker bar... It'll save you some money in the long run.

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1987 GTA L98 MD8
355, TFS Heads, LT4 Hot Cam
My GTA

The Minnesota F-body Club

 

When ever u do get those torx bolts out, replace them all with the appropriate metric bolts (same size in length as originals) & be sure to put never seize on everything!

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86 Tramaro 90% Trans Am/ 10% IROC/Z (nose, hood,& fenders)
Trans Am Mods as of 1/10/01
3inch
T.E.S/Flowmaster setup,gutted cat,gutted maf,relocated mat,373 gears,upgraded factory chip,255 lph walpro f/pump & throttle body coolant bypass
njdaewoo@excite.com
New mods as of 6/10/01:
383sb engine
Comp Cam Xteme XR264hr-12
smog pump by-pass

 

Just a correction, the intake to head bolts are not metric, they are 3/8-16 like pretty much everything else that screws into the block/heads. Yes GM was insane enough to use standard fasteners on teh TPI base, and metric to hold the rest of it together.

 

Thanks guys. I've already got a brand new set of regular hex head intake bolts to go back in. No more torx BS for me.