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ok i changed a few things but...

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Old 11-12-2001, 07:11 PM
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ok i changed a few things but...

my car(89) will not run, it turns over but will not fire. initially i had the motor in my sig in the car. i have since changed the injectors to the stock 19lbs and back to the stock press regulator i had in the car(89) when the trans went. i did this because i was thining that maybe the injectors were sticking open and flooding the cyl with fuel. with the 24#s in i would crank the motor for about a minute and check the plugs and they would be soaking wet with gas, this led me to beleive..way too much gas so i put it back to stock. it will not start still. i am getting spark, and the dist is NOT 180 out, plugs are on the correct place on the cap, and the fuel press goes up to 42 or 43 when cranking, every sensor is plugged in. if i pull all the plugs out and crank it over to blow the gas out, then blow the plugs out with compressed air then put them back into the motor, at first the engine will act as if it is going to start but will not and will just crank. i have been at this for almost a week and am loosing patience with this. please someone out there give me some ideas about what is keeping it from starting.

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Brandon
"ScreaminDeamin 360"
1989 IROC 350 60 over, TRW forged 9.83:1 pistons,Hooker Comp headers, crane cam 216/228 .484/.512, crane 1.6 RR's, ported plenum, home made ram air, 24lb SVO injectors, crane AFPR, all going through 3 inch mandrel pipe and a flowmaster.
T-56 ,McLeod clutch, LT4 PP

http://ScreaminDeamin.cz28.com
Old 11-12-2001, 08:14 PM
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Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
I'd check the TPS voltage first. Then I'd check the CTS resistance to ground. If both are correct, then I'd unplug the electrical connector under the MAF and see if it starts.

Another thing to consider is that just because you have spark, does not mean it is occurring at the correct time throughout the firing order...a bad module, PU coil, etc, could be the cause.
Old 11-13-2001, 06:28 PM
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ok i changed modules and it still wont start.the CTS is new, i dont know how to check the resistence to ground on the CTS. i tried unplugging the MAF , that didnt work either. i pulled the 305 out running, i had no codes or any problems with it when i pulled it. argh!!!
Old 11-13-2001, 07:14 PM
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Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
If the CTS is new, we can probably not be concerned about it anyway.

Do you have an OHM meter or DVM/DMM? You may want to check each side of the injector harness to ground...you may have the injectors enabled.
Old 11-13-2001, 09:22 PM
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yes i have an OHM meter. what do you mean i might have the injectors enabled? how will i go about checking this?
Old 11-14-2001, 10:13 AM
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Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
With the key off (to start with) unplug the injector(s) and insert one lead into one of the harness holes and the other lead to a good ground. Do this for both connections within each harness. (not on the injector(s))

Neither should show continuity to ground.

Repeat the test with the key on.

Post the results.
Old 11-20-2001, 10:13 PM
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ok i finally had some time to test the harness for the injectors, here are the results that my ohm meter gave me.

Cyl------ign off--------ign on
1-----88k/28.4ohm-----14.3M/14.3M
3-----88k/27.7ohm-----14.3M/14.25M
5-----88k/27.6ohm-----14.1M/14.15M
7-----88k/27.6ohm-----14.1M/14.15M
2-----88k/27.7ohm-----14.3M/31.2K
4-----88k/27.6ohm-----14.0M/31.5k
6-----88k/27.7ohm-----14.0M/31.3k
8-----88k/27.6ohm-----14.0M/31.5k

i have no idea what these numbers mean hopefully someone can explain. why would the readings on the pass side bank with the key on be different than the drv side? it seemed like it was going to start tonight but never did.

------------------
Brandon
"ScreaminDeamin 360"
1989 IROC 350 60 over, TRW forged 9.83:1 pistons,Hooker Comp headers, crane cam 216/228 .484/.512, crane 1.6 RR's, ported plenum, home made ram air, 24lb SVO injectors, crane AFPR, all going through 3 inch mandrel pipe and a flowmaster.
T-56 ,McLeod clutch, LT4 PP
Newest Pictures
http://screamindeamin.cz28.com/newimages

http://ScreaminDeamin.cz28.com

[This message has been edited by ScreaminDeamin85Z (edited November 20, 2001).]
Old 11-20-2001, 11:31 PM
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Have you checked basic things like:

Compression
Valve lash (ive had rocker nuts back off)
A timing light on each wire while your buddy
cranks?

You didn't put the runners on backwards did you? I know, this prolly sounds silly but they will not seal if you put them on backwards. Trust me, you'll get the biggest vacume leak in the world. And it prolly won't idle. I've seen it before..

-- Joe

------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1989 Formula 350 4-bolt mains, Forged .030 TRW pistons, SLP 51010 Roller Cam, Comp-cams roller lifters, Summit 1.5 roller rockers, World Products Sportsman II
2.02/1.60 heads, Edelbrock TPI Intake, Cloyes Double Roller, timing chain, Mellings oil pump: 13.5 @ 100.23 MPH

Since close of track : Ported SLP runners, Ported Plenum, AFPR, Autometer 100lbs gauge, A/F ratio gauge.

http://www.joesperformance.com

-- Joe
Old 11-20-2001, 11:47 PM
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yes i have compression. i ran it on the stand with a carb a few days before the swap. since it ran on the stand the valves should be fine. we have tried moving the timing light to diff plug wires and they show spark. the runners for the 89 dont have the cold start injector and are identical, as far as i know and can see.
Old 11-21-2001, 10:16 AM
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Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ScreaminDeamin85Z:
ok i finally had some time to test the harness for the injectors, here are the results that my ohm meter gave me.

Cyl------ign off--------ign on
1-----88k/28.4ohm-----14.3M/14.3M
3-----88k/27.7ohm-----14.3M/14.25M
5-----88k/27.6ohm-----14.1M/14.15M
7-----88k/27.6ohm-----14.1M/14.15M
2-----88k/27.7ohm-----14.3M/31.2K
4-----88k/27.6ohm-----14.0M/31.5k
6-----88k/27.7ohm-----14.0M/31.3k
8-----88k/27.6ohm-----14.0M/31.5k

i have no idea what these numbers mean hopefully someone can explain. why would the readings on the pass side bank with the key on be different than the drv side? it seemed like it was going to start tonight but never did.

</font>
Okay, do one more test...now take the same measurement points but check voltage with key on only (no need for key off). Use the DC scale...0-20 volts or similar.





[This message has been edited by 8Mike9 (edited November 21, 2001).]
Old 11-21-2001, 11:40 AM
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Talk about a stumper.... OK, how about the computer?? Here me out. When I brought my GTA to the dealer, they found that the computer needed replacement. So they got a new one in there, the car started once, then the second try, it just dumped fuel in there. The injectors were wide open!! Maybe your computer went for the worse? Worth a try.... try to get one from a near-by wrecker. A new one was only 250bux (Canadian) from the dealer even!!... thats my 2 cents.... definately sounds like something electronic isn;t working right and is telling the injectors to be open full.

Another stupid thing to add.... cause this happened to my buddy, and we still laugh about it to this day. Did you paint anything? Intake, runners?? I am asking, because, if you did, you may have forgot to take the masking tape off the machined surfaces... therefore the engine not getting air. I know its a stupid thing to say, but it happens.

Good luck!!

------------------
1988 Pontiac Trans Am GTA L98 5.7L, Black on Black with 114,000kms.

Best ET 14.559 @ 95.25MPH
Custom 3" Stainless Exhaust Y-Pipe back (High flow Cat and Flowmaster Mufler)
Old 11-23-2001, 10:15 PM
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well i got my car running finally
you know what i had to change? not a damn thing! i came home from work and my dad said he wanted to check a few things someone told him to. we did and they all checked out. we try to start it and it did! we set base timing and it runs now. WTF! it decides to run after me jacking with it for over 2 weeks now! i am not complaining or anything but we didnt change ANYTHING on the car, and i am clueless why it just decided to run. needs a little tuning but it still drove fine. thanks for all your guesses. oh yeah 6 gears is REAL NICE!

------------------
Brandon
"ScreaminDeamin 360"
NOW RUNNING!!
1989 IROC 350 60 over, TRW forged 9.83:1 pistons,Hooker Comp headers, crane cam 216/228 .484/.512, crane 1.6 RR's, ported plenum, home made ram air, 24lb SVO injectors, crane AFPR, all going through 3 inch mandrel pipe and a flowmaster.
T-56 ,McLeod clutch, LT4 PP
Newest Pictures
http://screamindeamin.cz28.com/newimages

http://ScreaminDeamin.cz28.com
Old 11-24-2001, 12:19 AM
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23

I wonder if your vats module is screwing up like mine did.

My car would run sometimes, and not ohters, until I gave up ant put an older ECM that didn't require vats.

I have an 89.

Btw, the runners are different. One has an EGR port, the other does not. I think they will seal ok tho, but I know the SLP runners will NOT unless you put them on the right side. At least, mine don't.

-- Joe



------------------
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
1989 Formula 350 4-bolt mains, Forged .030 TRW pistons, SLP 51010 Roller Cam, Comp-cams roller lifters,
Summit 1.5 roller rockers, World Products Sportsman II 2.02/1.60 heads, Edelbrock TPI Intake,
Cloyes Double Roller, timing chain, Mellings oil pump: 13.5 @ 100.23 MPH

Since close of track : Ported SLP runners, Ported Plenum, AFPR, Autometer 100lbs gauge, A/F ratio gauge.

http://www.joesperformance.com
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