I put na pin between the 2 ports on the diagnostics port and it flashed the same thing over and over for like five mins. It was 3 flashes then pause i think. Also i read something earlier that said if i put my key to the on position and the check engine light should flash then stay on, and if it just stays on its in limp mode, mine just stays on whats that mean im soo lost. Thanks nate

 

It was most likely flashing "1" "2" over and over again. This is read as code 12 meaning that everything is working properly.

 

Yeah!
It should flash 1, 1-2, pause then 1, 1-2, pause, for like three times total- to tell you that the diagnostics are working.
Then, it should flash any stored codes.
I have the book, in case you don't. Just try it again, jumper in place (be sure that you are in the right ports!), key forward (but not all the way to start), & let me know if you don't have a book to check your codes with...

BTW- you didn't mention if the coolant-fan came on when you jumpered the test-ports. It should!

Good luck!
John

 

Yea it came on but the only thing is my car is running REALLLY REALLY RICH and i dont know why it idels really low when it warms up and stinks of gas. Any ideas ima try to check them again tomarrow. Thanks nate

BTW just changed 02 sensor plug wires plugs are somewhat new(2nd set) and cap and rotor was just changed to

 

Ok it flashed the 12 code then it flashed 3 pause 2. Wich im guessing is a code 32 thats the only one it flashed. The check engine light comes on but only after the car warms up and im driving for a while, its weird any sugestiosn??

 

code 32 is EGR. Make sure the vacuum line going to the egr valve is connected and not cracked. Lift the diaphragm of the egr valve and see if it moves freely up and down. With the engine idling, you can lift the diaphragm by hand and the engine should stumble. Beyond these suggestions, you may need a new egr solenoid.

 

Amen!
Also, I had an EGR valve on my '91 that was carboned-up, & worked good until I was coasting on the highway(usually down-hill), when it would throw a code 32.
I went to U-Wrench-It and pulled an EGR valve off another car & used it until I sold the old girl with 206K on it!
Glad you found it!
If the EGR doesn't fix it, you might need a new ECM, too. Mine did when it started running funny! (Only cost me like $35 bucks at U-W-I!)
John

 

Ok i know this sounds noobish but wheres the egr valve can anyone show me what it looks like lol

 

Yeah!
It mounts to the passenger-side of the motor, it's easy to see.
Look here for a picture of it (also not a bad price...):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-86...spagenameZWDVW
John

 

sweet thanks its 10 oclock and ima go check it now!!! lol

 

Ight so i found like 10 things that look like that and dont know wich is which is the egr valve under the plenum??? or is it like kinda attached tot eh smog pump thing?? im so lost anyone have a motor bay pic and have the egr valve circled?? lol

 

The egr valve is under the plenum in the middle of the intake manifold, it's a flat, round brass or silver colored part with a vacuum line coming out of the top that goes to the egr solonoid on the rear of the intake behind the ignition coil, there is a second vac line on the solonoid that goes to a nipple on the underside of the throttle body where the waterneck is. You will get a code 32 if either of those lines are cracked or loose as well as a major vac leak.

hope this helps

John