basically what the title says also how difficult would it be to put in a 383 kit yourself with a pretty good knowledge of the car a a fairly good tool set thinking of doing it over the winter but no sure yet thanks for any help

 

Mechanically there's no difference in building a 350, or 383.
You relly need to decide on what you want; daily driver, street/strip, Race only...etc. Mine is for daily driving, and mild street as such it had to have all green stuff working.
Buy the parts take them & block to a shop to do the machining & prepping then put it together yourself. Ask about issues like clearance issues from using a longer stroke.
Use a performance shop, but don't let them dictate on what combination to use. Ask for advice, but remember that's all it is advice you don't have to agrre with it. Have a cam company recommend a cam based on what you decided on the use of the car will be.

And we are here to help. Happy wrenching!

 

looking to build a daily driver that i can also race on weekends at the track

and how much does a machine shop usally cost

and also which kit is the best qualtiy and doesnt have to be the cheapest

 

Every time I asked how much to my machinist he said "figure everything starts at $100".
Figure all machining between 300 and 800 bucks. Depends on what you have done.
I like my Eagle crank and rods with SRP slugs. $1800 for the forged kit.

 

Just remember that the estimate they give you is an estimate. Everytime I've had work done it came to $100-$200 more than originally thought.

 

Give R&E Racing in Lancaster a call, talk to Ed in the shop.

 

by the time your done a crate motor would be less even with quality parts, but if getting your hands greasy is what makes you happy go for it, I did.

 

With a long-runner TPI intake, forget it. You'll have the same horsepower as a 350, but so much torque the car will be hard to control when launching. And you'll go thru rear tires like they were free.

Save yourself the extra cost and build a 350. See my posts in the TPI board on "Our quest for a better flowing TPI" and "Visual TPI intake ports" to see the reason why a long runner TPI doesnt work with a 383. Those posts will also tell you what you have to do to a TPI intake to make it work above 4500 rpms.

And when you're done with your engine, call me up and I'll do the custom chip for you.

R & E Racing is a good place, I usually talk to John when he buys parts from me at Manley.

 

I think, decide what kinds of cars you want to beat. A stock car is fine for racing at the track. Do your bracket well.

If you want to beat a completly stock LS1, you can easily with 350 mods, but look very carefully at what others have done before.

A 383 may resemble stock, but what you might need to feed it may not pass CA smog. (I don't think a 700r4 could handle it, either.) There are 3rd gens in CA faster than 11 sec, but maybe not smog legal.

The more torque and Hp you make, the less "daily" it is, you have to make sacrifices in one place or another, esp. handling.
I don't care how easy it sounds. This is why exotic cars cost so much. But if you like it, its worth it.
It is easier to adjust to small changes in your cars mods, a race car can be a beast. /\

PS definitly go for forged internals. Don't forget suspension mods and body.

 

I like my 383 Daily Driver, Rain snow ice what ever. If the car limits the torque, fix the car or get a different platform.

Drive a Hot rod on real slick roads and gain real appreciation of all that power.

Not all stock 383 TPI burn the tires off. Some just leave, read about Grumpy talking about tuning, torque, and launches.

If you want to run a "stock TPI" 383, it makes a nice street setup. My motor started out as a short block, the machine shop keeps one around for the circle track guys, all forged internals and flat top pistons. I then told the guy what I was going to do with it. He built up the rest of the engine to match the cars normal rpm range (1000-5000). He is an old carb man and didn't under stand anything computer as to cars. He knows his engines, it idles smooth and makes power where needed. Roller cam and rockers, aluminum heads.

And ask Dana at Probuilt Automatics about 383's and 700R4's, he doesn't have any problem building something that really works.

Speed is money "How fast/quick do you want to go?"