so my cars stuck at school(im in an auto program) i had brought it in to diagnose a bad idle, and the car stalled out and i cant get it to stay on long enough to take it back home. so im open to any suggestions. please, this car is freakin killing me. its my 86 iroc with 305 tpi, heres a list of what ive checked and replaced

tps, checked out okay
iacv, cleaned and checked okay
fuel pump replaced acouple of months ago
ignition module, checked
ignition coil replaced a month ago
pickup coil in distributor checked okay
new dist. cap and wires
fuel filter replaced with the fuel pump
egr replaced along with egr temp indicator
have no vacuum leaks

the car has a problem that itll turn over but shut off immediately, its better on warm days but not but alot and might just be a coincidence, i can keep the car on if i hold the throttle, but itll run rich, the problem got progressively worse, since i used to be able to get it to idle and drive it around a bit, now it doesnt like to idle at all. it was throwing a tps/oxygen sensor code but that went away. any help would be greatly appreciated

 

Did you check out your timing? Did you also check out your injectors? The injectors all junked up will prevent the car from running. If its running rich it may have something along the lines maybe your o2 you checked out if bad or something messed up. It maybe running to much fuel through the fuel system which is making the car throw up and die. Cleaning the IAC valve doesn't always cure the problem, you may need a new one. And you said a new distributor was put in so you can eliminate that. If you checked out the tps did you also check the connector to it? I had to replace both on mine the tps sensor itself as with the connector to. Check your connector if you havent done so.

 

the distributor isnt new just the cap, i set timing acouple months ago with the bypass wire disconnected but it still stalled even back then. i havent ohm checked the injectors, i cleaned the iacv, and checked it with the iacv checker we have at school. we checked the tps and the connector. right now im thinking fuel is the problem. perhaps really bad injectors

 

yeah gurk,I agree with formulakid.
Especially on the checking of the injectors.(How many miles)?

 

Thats what im thinking, theres a video on youtube a guy that was restoring an 86 IROC and showing clearly how the car stalls, because the injectors were all gunked up to death, i believe its your injectors, if not the injectors, try replacing the distributor man, i just bought a reman for 100 bucks and stuck that baby in there and she idled like a dream after that. I believe i started a thread a while back and we were talking about having the same problems idling. Plus A.K.A the distributor is also a cheap part that buying more injectors, but id try the injectors first, if there under a certain ohm i believe 12 i believe, if there under that then there bad. Or there just functioning anymore because there full of junk in there.

If not the fuel, #2 is my guess. Distributor man.

 

or just say the heck with it and replace the dist. and the inj.
provided you have the cash to do so.
I bought new inj. for my 305 to 350 swap from
www.fuelinjectorconnection.com
paid $175 for the set of 22#

 

the car has about 140,000 miles on it. hopefully tommorow in class we'll check the injectors. and formula kid, i remember us talking about your dist. being the problem. unfortunately i just dropped some cash on the new egr and gasket set. and im kinda tight on money. but hopefully i find the problem soon.

so the injectors have to be above 12? but below 15 right? or something like that? and they cant be more than 5 apart form each other, or so i heard, also how would i go by eliminating the distributor from the problem without going out and putting a different one in?


oh also wouldnt the problem be more likely the injectors since its running rich when it does run?

 

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Something on the pole like a loup pole or something, i cant remember specifically, but something on that distributor just was bad, and so we replaced it, with a reman one that was rebuilt and it worked like a dream. The rich problem is the injectors yes, the distributor has nothing to do with that, try getting everything squared away with your injectors doing everything as possible you can, and if your injectors check out, try getting a reman distributor, because to me there a lot better because there rebuilt from a 3rd gen at one point and plus a Brand new one cost 300 bucks.

 

FIXED!

turned out it has a bad oxygen sensor according to the code its throwing. but the stalling turned out to be a bad iacv. we checked it with a machine the tests for movement, but since we didnt take it out we could only hear it working and we crossed it out of our list. but as it turned out it was only making a sound and wasnt moving at all. a new iacv fixed the problem.

 

glad to hear its fixed and running again.

Did you check the injectors?

 

Lol like i told ya man, cleaning the iacv doesnt always cure the problem. But im glad you got a new one and got it fixed, and its idling again, and as stated you probably did have a bad o2 sensor. The correct speed it should be idling is 600 in drive, and 700 in park.

 

yeah, the crazy thing is we checked it and everything but i guess it wasnt moving. anyways i still have to set the idle since i had fiddled with it before and now it idles rather high in drive, and its causing me to have to hold the brake rather firm to keep it from creeping. also the oxygen sensor code is coming up when i turn on the car but it turns off when i go on the freeway then itll stay off for a while then it comes back, wierd.

 

hmm weird lol, yea i know, my truck is like that, it idles high so you have to hold the brake pedal more. Try setting the idle speed for 600 a little above the 5, and then 700 in park, its the proper correct idle speed.

 

my tach is horribly inaccurate so i couldnt possibly get it exact

 

aha sounds like that needs a fix lol. well its like setting one on a car with no tach. You just need to listen and til the car is at is quiet point, but not to the point where the car has hesitation. If you get that right, you will also save your gas milage. high idle uses up more gas, but i think to there point your at you probably dont care as long as the car idles lol.

 

yeah hopefully ill get to working on it tommorow after work, im also planning on building my ram air setup