guys. Any info would be great. When I come up to a stop sign or signal light, sometimes my 86 IROC-Z, dies. Lets say im slowing down from 50 MPH. When my cars RPM's drop to around 2,000, the car just turns off. No stuttering, no nuthing, just kicks the bucket. Once I get to a dead stop, I select park and vvrrroooom. Starts up nicely. It comes and goes every once in a while. There are no trouble codes either. There is one which is 24 (VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR (VSS) CIRCUIT FAILED). But I dont think that has anything to do with the Camaro dying on me. My idle RPM's are at around 1,500 (cant set idle lower or the engine will stall due to my 94 Z28 LT1 cam). There is a new Idle Air Control Valve, TPS is set at .55, new Fuel Pressure Regulator, and dizzy set at 6* (with EST disconnected).

 

similar thing happened to me but doesnt happen anymore. dont know what the problem is. i was driving and didnt slow down when i turned into the driveway for taco bell took the turn at like 40 and hit a speed bump and the car shutoff. happened 1 other time but hasnet happen in about 2 months

 

my car did this, it was my ignition coil, one day it just died and i had to get a new coil

 

Actually the vehicle speed sensor issue might be the problem. Although this seems odd reason is the ECM will cut the fuel while decelerating to avoid flooding the motor. No VSS means the car will not know when the cars decelerating and will not know when to cut the fuel. As result it may get over enriched and die. This only applies if its TPI. If its carbed it could be a fuel pressure issue or a float issue.

 

Also although i dont have personal experiance with the LT1 cam i find it very strange that you cant get it to idle under 1500 RPMs. I myself and many other people have FAR more radical cams that can idle under 1k. My daily driver has a comp cams i think it was the EX268 and it idles down at 750. Even my car that ran a comp cams 282s cam idled less than 1 k. I really suspect you have some other problem like a vacuum leak if you cant get it to idle under 1.5k with an LT1 cam.

 

agree with above, you might have a vacuum leak. Has this been doing this since you installed new cam or recent thing. The VSS also needs to be changed or repaired as this can cause a problem. Also when you did the IAC, did you just install it, you might need to use a scan tool and check the Idle air counts to see if they are correct (might need a shop to due this). My car idles around 650-700rpm with a large cam, no problems, and a lt-1 cam is not that big, so it is not that, unless it was installed with like to much cam advance.

 

It is your VSS causing the stalling, Fix the VSS issue and you will fix the the stalling issue as well.

 

Cool. Thanks for the info guys. Im going to buy a new speedo cable. As for the RPM's, I think my Tach is malfuntioning. Im not sure how to get an alternate source to see if the tack is working right. I say that it must be bad because when I floor the pedal, the needle maxes out while the engine is still pushing speed, and the Camaro just keeps on accelerating. Is there another way to read the RPM's at idle? The guts are all new inside the dizzy aswell.

 

When you replaced the IAC did you reset minimum air and the TPS voltage? Did you clean the passages in the throttle body with carb cleaner? The passages need to be cleaned regularly or the IAC will stick and you'll get exactly the problem you're describing. I'd also double check the timing, just to be sure all the easily adjustable settings are correct.

Another possibility is your TCC solenoid might be faulty, which could cause the torque converter to stay locked up causing a stall. You can bypass it by unplugging the 4 pin harness from the top of the transmission. If the problem goes away, a new TCC solenoid is cheap and easy to replace.

 

Now that you mention it, my tranny doesnt upshift into 4th (O.D.). With the issue of not upshifting, and stalling, can the problem be that the solenoid is going bad? Other than that, yes I reset the TPS and the IAC valve. Im going to get some carb cleaner spay and spray all around the intake gaskets area to see if I got a vacuum problem. If not then Ill redo the TPS and IAC. If that dont work, then I,ll just drive slow until I recieve my income tax, Whats wiser, buying a 2 year warranty Remanufactured tranny, or having mine rebuilt? Anyway, timing, IAC adjustment and TPS are good to go.

 

TCC and 4th gear are controlled by two different means.
Check your TV cable is setup correctly; you risk torching the trans if it is not

 

Well this is a complicated one. 700r4s have gone through a lot of changes. On there onset back in 82 they were complete junk are are one of the big reasons they have such a bad reputation due to their failure rate. Later in 85 they made some changes to correct some of the original 700r4s flaw. However although much improved there was still room for improvement. In 87 the made even more refinements and 87-93 700r4s are concidered the best version of the 700r4. They are all interchangeable and will require no mods to swap in. By buying a remmaned tranny theres no promise what year 700r4 your getting and if you get an earlier 82-84 unit you would have been much better off having yours rebuilt. However if you could get one of the later 87-93 700r4s you would be even better off. Furthermore other issues like if you got a 700r4 from a 4.3L v6 although it on the outside looks the same and will bolt up but it is not as tough due to less clutches inside. The speedometer drive gear/driven gear may be wrong and need to be changed to make your speedometer right. One last issue is that the shift points that are set on a camaro/firebird 700r4 may not be the same on a truck of the same year. So personally ide say try to find a 87-93 700r4 from a camaro/firebird and have that rebuilt (there are many that are blown for sale cheap or good ones you could drive till they die and then have the redone) or buy a remanned one if your allowed to go through their inventory and pick a later 87-93 trans out of their stock. As a second choice have yours rebuilt. Its not that the units used in 86 were too bad its just if you have to go through all the trouble why not have the best most reliable vertion seeing as how it costs the same either way and its a direct swap so theirs no added challenge in installing it.

 

Sorry I never checked back with you guys but I fixed the problem. I got a trouble code of a bad VSS (Vehicle speed sensor). So I went out and bought a new speedometer cable and BAM!!!!!. No more stalling on deacceleration.