Lately I have been experiencing a problem with one of my TPI engines.

Its an 89, all original 350 Automatic

The Car starts fine, and will idle fine, I just installed new injectors, but the problem was there before I changed them.

I had a Gas cap that was problematic, so I changed it out.

It will run great for the most part, but on occasion it will just stop running, like I turned off the key... The first time it was in my driveway after the winter, I was letting it idle to warm it up for spring, to get the fluids going etc. I turned it off for 10 to 15 min and when I started it back up it ran for about 20 seconds, put it in reverse and it just quit, it would not refire... Same thing happened the second time, same scenario...

I replaced the injectors, and I went through the same procedure in my driveway, let it run for a while, warmed it up, turned it off for a few min, and then backed it into the garage, no problem...

Today I drove to work, filled it up with 5 gal of fresh Premium Gas. The Gas station is about 1.5 miles from my house. I got on the road, turned right to get on the e-way and it kind of petered out slowly, I restarted it and it gave me no problems all the way to work.

It was a Hot day, I got in the car for my trip home, about 200 yards from my work it felt like I hit a bump and it just quit, I restarted it and again gave me no other problems...

Today's Consistencies with the issue:
1) The temp was not fully Hot, but not cold either
2) Semi-hard turn on the first one, second one felt like I hit a small bump
3) Shortly after I started the car...

I am thinking bad ground, bad fusible link or some sort of bad connection... Both times the engine was not fully hot nor fully cold. I will also have a slight backfire while warming up if I rev the engine, once warm it is fine, no Check engine light.

Anyone had this problem? if so how did you fix it.

 

Sounds like the ignition module to me.

 

i had a similar problem a few years ago... it was the ign module not having enough grease... when it got hot enough it would just quit then i try to start it then nothing couldnt even here the click of the starter.... let it cool for about 30 min it would start right up but once it heated up did it all over again...... couldnt figure it out for weeks until i noticed how dry the module was....

 

I had that same idea when it happened a few weeks ago before the injector replacement...

Question, I know on the large distributors the module is inside the distributor... Where is it on the cars with the remote coil? I have never looked... (probably would have been easier if I changed it when I had the runners off....)

thanks

 

Still under the cap.

 

Your talking about the white thermal grease right, in the dizzy?

 

Thanks... It has been so long since looking under the dizzy that I forgot that it was under there. I picked one up, lifetime warranty... The car gave me no problems today, but I have yet to drive home from work. However I noticed when it was cold that it is running rich... If I rev it I get a little backfire when cold, once it is up to temp it is fine, the exhaust smells fine... But I can tell it is a bit rich on cold startup...

One thing at a time I guess... Poor car has been driven only 1000 miles in 5 years...

Thanks everyone.

 

Mine did that and I changed the coil and it fixed it. That was after I changed the ignition module like was suggested here. That was the first thing I thought it was too. Not sure if your coil is the original but mine was. My car has an 88 L98 TPI.

 

Also do a wiggle test on the fusible links down by the starter.
The whole "i put it in gear" and "hit a bump" leans me towards this. I have replaced mine on my 89 a few years ago. My mystery dying prob is gone..

I would also have a look at the coil and dizzy parts..

 

I know the wires are not original, They are Delco 7mm, but someone probably thought the rough idle was ignition related, it was injectors. I am not sure if the cap & Coil are original or not... good ideas to think about...

I know from experience that a bad fusible link can cause havoc. I had an 87 Formula 350 that did not run after someone installed a fresh motor. They sold it on a song, when I was rerouting the wires to the motor because they had gorked it up, the link just came apart, problem fixed... AND there was a bad injector to boot...

I really hate intermittent problems, a PITA to fix and chase down when it is not-yet-really-completely-truly broken, just kinda-maybe-almost-but it usually works fine crap is enough to drive me out of my gourd.

Thanks for the input...

 

glad you found the problem.... it took me weeks to figure mine out..... make sure there is plenty of grease....

 

The new module should have come with grease. You want to spread the entire contents of the packet evenly over the metal base of the module. Also, be sure to clean the dist base where the moduel attaches. Whenever you replace the ignition module, be sure to test the pick up coil(green wire and white wire). It should test at 800-1200 ohms. If not, replace it. Visually inspect the pole piece and timer core(little gears above the module) for excessive rust or being loose.