So a little background: I installed a new cam (.454 lift 216 duration 110 LSA) and headers.

It has good power when you drive it normal, but when I hit the gas, it bogs down at doesn't go about about 3,500 RPM. No idea why it's misfiring like crazy, but my neon (daily beater) feels faster than it.

I replaced: Wires, coil, cap, rotor, spark plugs, fuel injectors and fuel filter.

The only engine light I'm getting is 13 (I don't have an o2 sensor in my exhaust yet)

Fuel pressure and vacuum seem fine as well.

Lashed the rocker arms/valves about 5 times.

Timing is set at about 12 BTDC.

ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREAT!!!!

 

get the o2 sensor in it and see if it makes any diff

 

I'm really hoping that is the problem, but I still think maybe it's something with the cam install. I learned that 110 LSA is bad for our engines and that I need a 112 or 114 LSA.

Who knows though. I'll add the o2 sensor into my header this week and see what happens.

 

did you linke up the timing marks on the cam and the crank properly? I had one i put together and it was off 2 teeth it still ran but would not rev. i put in one of those double roller chains with the different timing marks on it . I messed up.

 

I think without the O2 Sensor, your ECM will be in Limp Home mode, and will not advance the timing.

 

110 lsa might need some tuning.

 

I lined the cam up at TDC, it had a 4 BTDC grind built into it (At least I think)

I'm going to install the o2 sensor and see what happens. Then I guess I'll take the timing cover and see if it's properly lined up still.

 

Just installed a new coolant temperature sensor and installed the o2 sensor into my header. The engine runs a little bit better but it's still so slow at WOT.

I'm getting codes 42 and 43 once in a while. I set the timing to 12 with the EST disconnected, but when it's plugged in, it goes up to about 20.

No clue why my engine is so dang slow at WOT.

 

Also to add, When I rev the engine while in park it will climb up to high RMP's no problem and it sounds like it isn't missing (very little at least). It seems like under load the engine runs awful at WOT.

 

For me, 12 Degrees BTDC, along with the 4 degree advance in the cam is a lot ( stock being 6). Maybe others can chime in, but it may be that you are getting so far advanced that you are getting knock, and the EST is retarding your timing back as a result.

 

Even though I'm sure my timing is set a little high...would it really affect my performance that much? The engine runs solid if I'm just cruising around but the second I wanna get on it....dirt slow.

I just ordered a new ESC (hopefully should fix the 43 error code)

 

How old is the balancer? Its not uncommon for the rubber to slip on the balancer and throw the timing marks off.

 

I'm assuming it's just the stock one that came with it. The marker looks to be welded on there. It has four triangular points. I currently have it set on the farthest point (roughly 12 BTDC)

 

The way the ECM works is to add timing based upon a couple of parameters- like TPS, vacuum, etc. It has no idea where the base timing was set. It just goes to a table and adds timing based upon the table. So if stock the base was 6 degrees, and the table says add 30 degrees, you now have a total of 36 degrees. If your base is 12 degrees, then the computer adds 30 degrees, and you are now at 42 degrees. If at 42 degrees the timing is too advanced, and pinging ( knock) occurs, the ECM will back off the timing until the knock is cured. Based on throttle position, vacuum, etc, your timing will be coming in way earlier than planned, so I don't know if that by itself will affect performance or not.

Don't know if this is the problem or not, but I know when I tried to adjust my timing tables a little, it caused an enormous amount of knock counts. Had to back them down.

 

I plan on adjusting my timing back down to 6 BTDC. I also think that maybe I'm not getting enough fuel and running very lean at WOT.

I have Ford 19lb injectors and with the cam/headers installed, the stock fuel pressure probably can't handle the extra power. I saw a link to make a homemade adjustable fuel pressure regulator so that's what I'll be doing this Friday on my day off.

Do you think that could be causing all of these problems at WOT?

 

I have the same injectors, 305, headers and an LT4 cam. I had to adjust the Injector Constant in the PROM to get my tuning in line. I had to adjust the constant "down", which means that the Prom is holding them open longer when firing ( more fuel). Adjusting the FP up would accomplish the same thing. If you don't do this with feedback from the system ( tunerproRT on a laptop connected to your ALDL) you can wind up with a very rich condition.

 

Great advice man. I don't have an ALDL hookup for my laptop yet so I'm going to make a "Homemade" adjustable fuel pressure regulator. It doesn't seem too difficult.

I never replaced my stock/old valve springs with the cam swap. Did you swap cause any valve float or did you replace your valve springs? I'm starting to think I may have that problem as well. I know valve float can make it feel like your car hits a "wall" of no power at higher RPM.

 

When I did my swap, I was converting from Flat Tappet to Roller Cam, so I did change the springs.

 

Right right, I better be safe than sorry and just replace them. What made you go with a roller cam instead?

I went with this cam:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-1065/

The LSA is a little low, but with the right tuning, I think it'll crank out some big power.

 

I went with the roller cam because 1) I had an '87 block that was already machined for roller cam and 2)No Break-in required. The Springs had to be changed because the Roller cam spring rate is much higher than a Flat Tappet spring.

The cam you chose is a single pattern cam ( intake and exhaust have the same duration). I'm not a cam expert, but this is probably not a computer friendly cam. Maybe others can chime in that are more knowledgeable than I.

This is a pretty good discussion about cams. It's focused on the LS1, but the basics apply .
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...cam-guide.html

 

now i am just throwing it out there but was you ecu flashed or had a new chip installed to compensate for the very different cam? it may need a custom chip or flash. limp home mode? when the ecu just reverts to a very basic map in order to make the car drivable but thats about it.

 

I had a stage 2 chip made from Harris Performance. I heard a lot of great things from others in these forums about their chips. I spoke with Brian and he told me the chip would work great for the specs I had.

 

You mentioned you had a code 43. Now doesn't that have to do with your egr valve and related items. And if one of those items are faulty that would be giving you the problems you seam to be having.

 

I have the EGR still installed but I have all the wires and tubing to it disconnected. Would I need to remove the actual EGR and put a block plate on it to fully eliminate it?