The engine won't fire up, I can crank it all I want but won't fire up. I narrowed it down to the fuel injectors aren't getting a signal from the computer. I tested this using a noid light. I had the ignition control module tested twice, and the computer has been replaced. Although, I'm not sure if anything was wrong with the original. I have power at the injectors. and the fuel pressure holds at 40 psi, but that doesn't matter too much as of right now since the injectors aren't firing.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...560-post2.html

 

So vetteoz, I did as the link described, the injectors pulsed. Can I assume that advance auto part's tester is broken or that it doesn't test the ignition control module completely?

 

okay, well I installed a replacement ignition control module and still will not fire up.

 

I'm thinking about just replacing the whole distributor.

 

If anybody is out there, I believe it is the computer that has a short between pins d15 and d16. I have one bank of injectors unplugged and I have 13~ volts at both pins, when that harness is plugged into the computer. So, to make sure that that what I was reading was correct, I unplugged the harness from the computer and only had the 13~ volts on the wire that would go to pin d15. My conclusion would be that the computer need to be replaces ( rather exchanged under warranty).

 

The computer pulses the injectors by GROUNDING the injector through drivers in the ECM. By plugging in the harness, you complete the circuit back to the ECM, which is why you see 12 volts at that pin. Power from ignition through the injector back to the ECM. I don't know if the ECM you have ever had VATS or it was disabled in the prom, but the ECM will not pulse the injectors if you have VATS and it was never disabled.

 

Never had vats, and it was running at one point for awhile. I drove it from PA to LA ~ 1500 miles. BTW, thanks for replying back! I am getting a headache from the thing!

 

Didn't you say in your first post that the computer was replaced? Used your original eprom?

 

Yeah, its still the original prom. I had a test light grounding the injectors with all but one unplugged and I had a noid light on another both the noid light and the test light lit up very dim. So I decided to ground the injectors through a jumper and all of them clicked on. I then clamped the test light to positive side of battery and touched the test light to d16 and cranked the engine. The light lit, but very dim. So, I may have a bad ground somewhere. When I ohm all the ground leaving the computer they are all fine. What I am thinking I will try is attach the test light to positive again and see which ground dims the bulb. and then trace it down. More than likely it is grounded to the back of the cylinder head, but I have to find the wire for sure and make sure it is dirty and not damaged.

 

All my grounds check out. I am starting to think that it is the computer itself that is making a poor connection.

 

Ok, I believe I just keep getting a batch of bad computers, because I installed the newest replacement and still nothing. Then, after hours of troubleshooting I relized that with the computer plugged in I didn't get 12 volts at both sides of the injectors plug. I had ~12.5 at the positive side and ~6 at the grounding side. Then while unplugging and repulsing in the injectors, I then realized that they are actually are clicking when I plug them in, but only with the computer connected. I am wondering if anyone else has had similar problems with getting non working computers from the retail auto parts chains?

 

Update: I got a new Prom from TunedPerformane and now it runs great!

 

a true life saver,that man!!

 

That is No Lie! LOL