puffcat

Hello, I was unsure as to how to title my subject.
Awhile back I pulled my engine to clean/paint/repair the engine bay after a wreck (not my fault). While out, I decided to give the old motor a work over and replaced every gasket/seal on it.

My friend had a LT1 camshaft from his 97 Camaro and convinced me to put it in. I did much reading on the forums here and agreed to do it.

My performance is somewhat sluggish and the car smells like it is burning rich (fuel smell from exhaust). It takes a couple rotations on a cold start and even more rotations on a hot start (hot also requires throttle held open).

The car has over 200k miles on it.

I have the original fuel injectors and recently replaced regulator (it failed).
Hooker 2055 Headers, Y-pipe with the smog pump still doing its job connected to 3 inches all the way back with the CAT still there. Heated O2 as well.

I did not replace the valve springs or rockers and I have not tuned it, yet.

I read alot here where people said they didn't need to burn a new prom and still enjoyed the cam swap. I do intend to do some prom tuning. I would first like to make sure I have everything in order.

Should I replace the valve springs? With what?
Should I replace the rockers? 1.5? 1.6?
Should I replace the fuel injectors?

I've messed with the position of the distributor some to little positive affect.
My fans are stuck always on and the temp never goes above the line in between half and bottom. With the A/C on it WILL get to just below the middle line and then I'll get a SES light which has been for a LEAN code.

I have spent nearly a year, off and on, reading up on LT1 swaps and what people did as well as other "performance" related topics before I decided to post here today. Any help or direction will be most appreciated.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

With the lean code 44 have you checked for exhaust leaks and or tried another ecm.
Code 44 can also be caused bye the o2 signal wire being grounded.
You should address this before tuning. The ecm is overcompensating and making the engine run even richer than it should.

puffcat

I have not tried another ECM (don't have a spare). I may have a very, very slight exhaust leak at one of the y-pipe to header junctions and I am sure that the O2 wire is not grounded.

The exhaust is one of those ball and socket connections. I've tried using some exhaust gasket donuts to no avail. Someone at work (I work in an auto-shop) suggested using some sort of copper spray gasket/sealant. Not sure about that stuff.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

If this is your profile 86-89 tpi 1227165, 16198259 or 88999194 ecm.
http://www.chevythunder.com/o2_sensor_code_44.htm
Not sure if it's o2 safe but I think your referring to permatex.
https://www.permatex.com/products/sp...ilpipe-sealer/

puffcat

Thank you for the flow chart! I'll be bookmarking chevy thunder.

Not sure if it was permatex, but I'll check if it's O2 safe and if so I'll give it a shot.

So, you think 02 issues related to that flow chart could be my issue? You don't think my problems could be associated with failing valve springs or injectors? Or a "false" lean condition because of the LT1 cam breathing more?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I think your rich condition might be due to the cam . I'd try to address the code 44 first then tune. Tpi maf is fairly forgiving for cam changes.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

If you work at an auto shop, do you or the shop have the ability to watch live data? If not you need to make communication with the ECM top priority. Find out exactly where your BLM's are and where your O2 readings are.

GD

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

100% sure the cam was installed correctly? (dot to dot reference?)

puffcat

Sorry for the late response. Had keyboard failure on my laptop and had to wait for the replacement keyboard.

Unfortunately our Verus scanners show very limited data for obd1. I did try, but there was very little useful information. I am trying to build my own aldl cable using the verus obd1 connect cable but I have been having difficulties.

I'll be working on the small exhaust leak Saturday.

TTOP350: I am fairly sure that it was installed dot-dot as I'm always paranoid about that. Is there a way to check without taking off the timing cover?

When it does start it idles very well (if not a little smelly ).

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I put a 214/224 grind cam and ZZ4 heads on a buddies 1986 MAF 305 TPI Camaro a few years back. It ran well and the ECM was well in control of the air/fuel ratio at part-throttle. It had cleaned stock injectors and ran at 46 psi fuel pressure. It actually ran so well we never even tuned it. It put down 250 hp at the tires and 300 tq. On his car we did bump the base timing from 6° stock to 10°. The aluminum heads wanted a bit more timing than the cast-iron heads.

One thing to look into if you have not already. With headers you should upgrade to a 3-wire heated o2 sensor. Also double check that all your ground wires are clean and tight. If you are missing one of them or a ground strap it can run poorly. MAF is much less picky about cams than the MAP cars.

puffcat

Thanks for the advice Fast355. I am indeed running a 3 wire heated 02. I'll make sure to go back through my grounds and such. When the engine was removed I did repaint it and maybe some paint is in the way of a connection to block or a connection to chassis.

puffcat

Was finally able to tinker with it. Got rid of the exhaust leak by using the 81878 Permatex Ultra Copper RTV on the surfaces connecting the y-pipe to the headers. DC'd the battery and let it sit for 4 days before driving it today.

Completely different car now. Much more responsive. Quicker starts, holds idle and doesn't shut off with the A/C on anymore. The leak was so small that you could barely feel it, but it was enough I guess.

Also installed 4th gen dual fan. Had extra time today =D.

Idle is way high now. I'll be redoing the timing, IAC and TPS settings tomorrow after work.

Also, guy at work has a set of new comp cams 981-16 valve springs that he's giving me. So I'll finally replace my factory springs with 230k miles...haha. He bought them for his truck, but then lucked out on a free lsx. (He part times at the GM dealer and works on the heavy team. He replaces motors all day and they let him take them. Guy has 3 trucks now with ls swaps)

Thanks guys for the advice and help.