X77trinity77x

88IROCvertZ

iTrader: (1)

Drew

iTrader: (58)

400hp pretty much isn't going to happen with a stock style TPI and no power adders. By design, TPI is built to make power at low RPM. The runners are tuned to develop peak power around 4500rpm. Most modifications that increase the HP of a SBC do above 4500rpm. So if you build a 350 that makes 400hp at 5,500+ RPM, and bolt on a stock style TPI intake, it's going to hold the engine back and kill power. To get that power back, the intake has to be changed. That's where carbs, the Stealth Ram or Mini Ram come in. None of the above look stock, and would be a tough modification to justify on a low mileage/original car.

X77trinity77x

Go Blue

Welcome Trinity! There is a wide range of headers that will work. I have a set of Hedman mid length headers on my car, but the power that you're looking to make, you will need long tube headers. It seems like Hooker headers seem to be the main choice for this forum based on all of the threads that I read when I was looking for headers for my car. As for the intake, that really depends on if you want to stick with fuel injection or go carbureted. There is a decent selection of intakes for either way that fit under the hood. As Drew mentioned, the Holley Stealth Ram or Mini Ram are 2 popular choices that a fair amount of members have that do help to add more horsepower to our cars. I hope this starts to help you. Do some searches for threads that talk about bolt ons and TPI horsepower adders or horsepower tricks for some more advice. You will find that you aren't the only person that is looking to add power, the question for you becomes if you're going to stay fuel injected or go carbureted, and that will decide a lot for you.

X77trinity77x

midias

Sounds like you need to figure out what you want. The cam, torque converter, rear, intake and tune all have to be matched.

Did you read the header sticky?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...ion-chart.html

I would start with headers and full exhaust then figure out what combo you want for cam and drive train. Comps Cams makes a good line for TPI Decide what cam you like and match the rest to it.

bk2life

dont forget the stock TPI looks of the FIRST Intake
https://firstfuelinjection.com

it will flow 400+ hp with no issues...

88IROCvertZ

iTrader: (1)

Boxtruck

400hp+ Out of a 350 is costly, let alone time consuming. Bolt ons are going to run you well over 2,000, not at all trying to scare you away, but Take the time and Find the Right Deals. Trying to bolt on 200+ hp without a Nitrous System, Procharger, or a well fabricated Turbo setup with a large air Reserve inter-cooler is a streeeeetccchhhh, but it can be done $$$$. I've seen plenty of 2 bolt main setups turn 300+ HP at the Oval, but you're talking Trans Kits, High Stall converters, Forged Rods, preference of Pistons, Well over your budget right there on a Retail point of View. You also have to factor in Machine Shop costs if your not planning to modify the heads or the block yourself. A 3 angle valve job, magnaflux, and decking a set of heads here in CNY costs around 275$ if supplying the valve train components. A good (new) Cam set is around 200$ for a decent flat tappet kit, or 500+ for roller assemblies (Rods, Lifters, Cam).

I can tell you at a Moderately spent $1,475 and climbing, and a lot of Used/Reconditioned Parts/Junk Yard runs, I'm only pushing a HOPEFUL 260hp (will get dyno results soon once Sonnax shift kit goes into the 4l60e on next tear down) on a L05 350 TBI (454 tbi unit 350 injectors w/red 18psi spring, Tuned on Autoprom *100 burns later*, machined l31 vortec heads with LS1 valve train components with a LT1 F body cam, dual plane air gap intake, 30 over pistons, .015 shimmed head gaskets, Shorty Heads to a 2.25 dual out. 155lph Fuel pump,Price seems High but I went with All new parts for the block, junkyard the conversion parts like Dual Fans, Wiring Harnesses etc. When I first started I almost considered going big block route, as they were rated for well over 350+ horse and 400+ torque IIRC, but Big Block Motors cost Big Block Money.


A good article for you to read up on (sorry if this link stirs a commotion with some, it is a bit outdated) would be GM's Budget Hot Cam Build.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/490...e-roller-cams/

They were able to estimate about 400 HP for under 2,500$ with their List. Its a Good read for those just getting into the Never Ending Story of GM Performance.

Go Blue

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

The key to making HP is air flow (cylinder filling).
Remember an engine is an air pump....
You will need an intake manifold that flows a minimum 300 CFM.
A set of heads that match that and a cam equally capable.
All of that far exceeds your budget.

<<<<<<<You can see from my info
I have what you want, so i know what it takes.

ray jr

iTrader: (2)

im a little confused , your asking what intake fits under the stock hood and then you say you want to keep tpi .. i just built what your describing you want and it didnt make 400 hp ..

X77trinity77x

X77trinity77x

mmadden55

Flatops in your 350 Vortech heads from a machine shop that has cut down the valve guides for high lift comp cams roller h268 vortec lower for you tpi siamesed runners vac advance after market dizzy headers should get you close for about 2 k if you shop carefully

zya5point0

iTrader: (4)

I've said it before and I'll say it again, when on a set budget without much wiggle room Craigslist is your best friend. You want good heads on a budget, pick a distance you're willing drive on a day (or weekend) and search every day. I've learned over the years if you're patient you'll almost always find what you're looking for at a price you want to pay. Only thing I'd never buy used is headers, so make your selection and spend that first. Good used aluminum heads tho are really hard to find used. Used corvette heads come up occasionally for pretty cheap, and back in the day (and maybe still today?) many l98's have run 12's with them. Then decide if you want to keep the look of the original TPI. I sold my old super ram cause at the time I wanted to keep my car semi stock looking. Since I've changed my plans for the car I wish I'd kept it. Basically it boils down to do you want to be able to say"I got about 400hp" or "it runs xx in the quarter mile"... And how "stock" do you want it to look?

X77trinity77x

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

Welcome to TGO.

Nothing wrong with not knowing. Ask LOTS of questions. ...that's literally what TGO is here for.

You've mentioned not being sure of what fits. Do you understand what a small block chevy is? (SBC). You've heard of small blocks and big blocks, right? Most of the basic small block parts will interchange with each other. NOT ALL! -for sure....but most. It was designed that way on purpose, lol. I bet if you picked the first 3 guys in this thread with small blocks (which are most of us), you could take the short block assembly from one member, the heads from the second member, and the intake from the third, and you could make 'em all work and the engine would run. In general, any small block manifold will bolt to any pair of small block heads, and they'll bolt to any small block...block. Again, there are definitely examples where that's not always true......but in general.....that's how it works. Vortec heads for example, will bolt to the block, but require a vortec specific manifold. ...but you'll learn this stuff as you read and learn. Trust me, you'll learn lots by osmosis. You hang out here and you just pick it up.

Jump on youtube and search for v8 engine animation, how a pushrod v8 engine works, etc. etc. Watch and understand all the moving parts. You'll be amazed at how in theory, they're rather quite simple. When you don't bother with the rings, bearings, washers, retainers, plugs, clips, nuts, bolts, gaskets, etc. etc., there really aren't that many parts!!!! Understand them and what they do.

When you're up to speed with that stuff....and it really won't take too long to understand the basics, you'll start to understand how they work together. Sure they might both bolt together, but why is one better for racing, and one better for a street car? THAT part of it is where the fun is. ....ohhhh and the endless debates on the forums, and 2 am drunken bench racing sessions with your buddies in the garage! That stuff is the fun part, and everyone has an opinion!

Be patient, ask questions. We're here to help.....most of the time. We kinda beat the CRAP outta that new guy talking about EMP proofing his car! That was kinda funny. -BUT this is productive. Even Drew is helping.

Go Blue

Trinity, Unless you start talking about a tunnel ram intake and single or dual carbs on top of it, the parts will all fit under the hood. Everything that has been suggested by everyone in this thread all bolts on and fits fine under the hood. As for your headers, they should work with any cylinder heads that have been mentioned as well (except possibly the vortech heads?? Guys, chime in if i'm wrong on that please!) What everyone has been talking about making parts (cam, intake, heads, torque converter) match is because everything has an RPM band that they work well in. If you get a cam that has a sweet RPM range in 4000-7000 RPM, an intake made for 1500-3000 RPM, and heads that don't flow much, the car is going to run like crap. You want to look at parts that all have roughly the same RPM range so that they all work in harmony. Being that TPI is only makes power until about 4000 RPMs you want to keep all of your choices to an RPM range below that or the top end of their sweet spot won't work as well as it should. I've never been good at choosing cams and usually find a couple that have been recommended and research them and then maybe create a thread like this one and ask any questions that I might have. If you're sticking with TPI, maybe find yourself a good set of aluminum heads that flow well, get the upper and lower intake plenums ported as well as the runners, and find a good camshaft to match??? This way, your engine will look stock and you'll get some extra horsepower out of it.

ray jr

iTrader: (2)

heres my combo if you are looking to do a tpi setup and make around 325hp .. i started with a 87 350 iroc with 60k on it .. the short block is bone stock .. i added a set of afr 180 heads , as&m runners , out of the box tpi big mouth lower base, dyno dons headers , 3 inch stock style magnaflow exhaust and convertor , 2800 stall torque converter and a mild .530 lift cam .. runs like a champ on the street , never been to the track with it .. besides the headers it looks stock under the hood .. heres a link to my build up ..
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...am-intake.html

X77trinity77x

pg29

For the hooker headers, are you looking to go long tube, or mid-length, or shorties? The longtubes will free up the most power, but with tired stock rubber mounts, can come into contact with the frame rails as they're a tight fit, so plan on installing new rubber/ or polyurethane engine mounts so you don't run into this problem. Also, if your budget allows, go ceramic coated as it keeps a bit more of the heat on the inside the headers, and out of the engine bay as well.

X77trinity77x

X77trinity77x

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

The TPI has a seperate plenum, runners, and base manifold. The miniram is all one piece. The physical difference in design is what gives each their own characteristics. The TPI has very long runners. At low RPMs, these runners help speed up the air, which in turn helps low RPM torque. Those same runners however just can't flow enough air in the higher RPM ranges to make high peak horsepower. The miniram is the exact opposite. Overall flow is great, making big horsepower numbers, but at lower RPMs the air slows down and it can hurt low RPM torque. Think about putting your thumb over a garden hose. With your thumb the flow slows down but speeds up. WIthout your thumb the flow increases, but slows down. Same principle, but with air. Like Dyno Don said, the engine is an air pump. Essentially the entire engine is built around that principle.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

With regard to your 383 question...

The engine will operate best if all the parts work together. The 383 is obviously 33 cubic inches bigger than your 350. It wants more air. A set of heads that flowed great on a 350, might just barely flow enough air for a 383. Your cam that opened the valves long enough to get the air in, and exhaust out of your 350 may not be able to open them far enough, or long enough to get air in and out of a 383. Will they work? Yes. They will bolt on and the engine will run. But think of all the parts as a system, because they are. It's a team. It's like the sports analogy about All Star teams. Tons of superstars, but they don't work together as a team. You have to pick your parts to work together.

A 383 wants a lot of air. The Miniram FLOWS a lot of air. These are a good match. You want a cam and heads that will do the same. ....and it's likely they will NOT work well on a 350. And they'll cost a lot more than $2000. ....and keep in mind that big price tags are on the fun parts, heads, cam, intake, etc. etc., but the ancillary costs will kill ya. Nuts and bolts, gaskets, wires, fluids, sealants, ZIP TIES, LOL.....and the list goes on and on.

X77trinity77x

Go Blue

X77trinity77x

Go Blue

Go Blue