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Hello everyone, new user, longtime reader. I've got a 1986 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am 305 TPI that I'm trying to get back on the road. Just installed new catalytic converter, cat-back exhaust, and new fuel pump. I've gotten codes for TPS and EGR. Reset the TPS to specs, runs better. Have not serviced the EGR, but see no leaks or broken vacuum hoses. About 4 years ago I put a intake manifold on the car, along with new sensors into the manifold, new distributor with all new components, Hypertech coil (Hypertech chip and 160 thermostat), new wires, and new spark plugs, and new South Bay fuel injectors. I ended up having the timing 180 off, but found TDC, reset and car ran. The last thing I have done is reset the TPS. My issue is the new catalytic converter will glow red. It was worse with the TPS not adjusted correctly. I've noticed the fuel pressure while running and at key on is at 40 PSI (have gauge on rail) and drops to zero as key is cut off. I've concerned the EGR is bad, new South Bay injectors are dumping fuel or stuck open, or maybe need an IAC replaced also. After TPS adjustment, idle is high, 1000-1200. Car does run smooth, but red cats and occasional popping is still occurring. Computer reset still shows code 32. I don't want to start just replacing sensors, but if I need to take the EGR off, I'd rather replace the injectors that are only 3 years old to solve the fuel issue. No fuel in vacuum line at regulator. I apologize if this is already covered, I have not found a complete description of the issues that I'm having. Car ran great until it sat and fuel pump went bad. The only thing that is not stock on the motor would be the injectors. 19lb Bosch. Any help would be great.
I put newer injectors to have better flow. Old injectors were gummed up from sitting for several years. Had a lot of buildup on the screens and the tips. I can get a used set off a 91 firebird. Would the egr valve allow the rich condition? Also, never replaced the IAC valve, it was clicking the last time I was adjusting the TPS. The harness looks rough to IAC. Might start there, no code yet.
Last edited by Bones_17; May 28, 2023 at 09:13 AM.
Idle speed needs to be under better control. The EGR code needs to be resolved, as it may represent a vacuum leak. If the ECM is not operating in closed loop mode, running rich is going to continue.
Just want to give an update and see if there are some solutions. I tracked down vacuum tubes and replaced a hard emissions line and other rubber lines that were either cracked or melted. New EGR Valve (old was clogged), TPS, IAC, pressure regulator, and soon the oxygen sensor. Assume all were needing replacement due to age and running rich, prior plugs were soaked and current ones may need replacing. I have not replaced the oxygen sensor, but will due to age of car and how bad it was running before. With new items car runs at idle in at 1200 in park, I have not adjusted the screw, although it has been exposed by prior owners. Car runs smooth, hard to restart once running almost hard or hitting a dead spot?, no codes yet. I have not driven the car, needs brake lines for rear. I have found no other leaks in the vacuum lines. Still have the red catalytic converter moving to the intermediate pipe. There is a small leak around the pipe to the catalytic converter, small. See picture of converter. The last items that I see that could cause the issue of fuel would be the injectors that were replaced a few years ago, Fuel PSI is at 30 running going to 40 with throttle response, drops to zero when car is cut off. I put the 19lbs South Bay injectors on in 2018. Any ideas on next steps? All sensors were reset after replacement.
I'm leaning towards the injectors, psi goes to 40 and drops, it did sit a few years before starting. Checked the oil and smells of fuel. Why not replace everything. I'll tighten the clamp more or weld it shut. Excessive fuel could be causing the higher idle. Exhaust is new from catalytic converter back. Hard start could be flooding from the injectors. Regulator was replaced new.