Ok, I have my plenum and runners (87 tpi) off to port and polish them and want to clean things up a little. There is a large circular thing mounted in the middle of the manifold right in front of the fuel pressure regulator. I think it is the EGR valve? Is there a way I can remove this. (I want to mount a hobs switch under the plenum but don't have room with it there). Do I have to put on a block off plate or weld the little runners shut? Any ideas? Thanks,
Tyler

 

You can remove it and put a block off plate there, but unless you have a custom prom with egr disabled, your check engine light will come on. The EGR is not active at WOT, so its really no big deal.

 

Will removing this actually hurt performance or have no effect other than the SES light? Thanks

 

I don't believe this will hurt your performance at all.

My question is... when you remove the EGR valve can you also removed the vaccuum solenoid that goes to the EGR valve. I'm wondering about this because there are two ports on that solenoid, one goes to the EGR valve but the other one goes to a T that splits off to the IAC passage on the bottom side of the TB and to the vacuum canister near the air filter.

 

So, thats it. You just block off the hole in the intake and turn it off thru the ECM chip? I'm considering this.

 

I was looking at this over the weekend and thought of another question. I have an 87 so I have the cold start injector. Without the EGR I don't think the fuel from this will get to the motor. Will removing both of these cause serious drivability problems or only minor ones? Can I update to a newer computer and or chip do allow the other injectors to richen up or would I have to make other changes too? Finnaly, I think that removing the EGR and blocking off the heat riser passages would make a differance. While the egr is not open at WOT you still have the added heat in the manifold. They say for every 10 degrees drop you gain 1%-2% more power. With a super charger I can use the coldest air I can get.

 

I know guys that have disabled their cold start injector without reprogramming the ECM, and their cae runs and starts fine. As for the EGR, go for it, take it off.... but find some one to disable it in the ECM.

 

Talked to one of my buddies and he said that it would not throw a code as long as you left the little black switch thing (how technical) that the egr vacume line hooks up to. Has anyone else removed the cold start injector? What was your experiance? Thanks,

 

only down side of removing the EGR is that the engine will run hotter. the EGR helps to cool the pistons and the crankcase, im not quite sure how but my mechanic who is an f-body nut told me this. and when i hooked the vacume lines up to my EGR and put the new EGR valve in the car started running like a champ. no SES lights since and it runs super cool even in high heat idleing for a long time.

 

Hmm, can anyone explain why the engine would run hotter without the egr?

 

There is also a feedback sensor on the EGR itself... if this is not plugged in, it will throw a code.

 

About a year ago my car started running like crap just off idle. I posted here many-a-time and spent months trying to figure out the problem. Between 1200 and 2000 under light throttle ...say starting from a light I could feel the car starting to bog. In neutral, I'd rev the car up slowly and try to hold it around 1500...it would start bogging and running like crap.
Solution?
I pulled the black vac line that goes to the EGR from the solenoid and left everything else as it is.
Car runs mint....no overheating whatsoever, bog is totally gone and under acceleration I'm pulling better number on the Vac guage (engine seems like it's working much less at same speeds). I don't have a cold start injector though. When I pull the TPI to port it I'll change the EGR valve...but not until then. Oh, and my car passed the sniffer with the faulty EGR hooked up...lol

 

Hmmm... prolly a clogged up EGR eh? The main part of your solution is that you left both the EGR feedback sensor and the EGR control solenoid connected.

You can always check the resitance ont he EGR valve for the connector, and put a resistor on the wire and connect it to ground. That the easy, mickey mouse, way.

 

Mine has been broken forever. As long as it is not lifted and leaking you are alright. My poor little 305 runs like a champ but it thows a code at highway speeds sometimes. I just ignore it now. I think I will eventually reaplace it but it is tough to get at.