Just wondering, I was driving down the interstate friday evening and thats what happened. I had been on the interstate for approx an hour or so, about 15-20 miles before the seal blew out my speedo quit, (I had fried a cable several months ago replaced it but think I did dammage to the speedo gears cause at times it would stop then take off again) then I happened to look in the rearview mirror just in time to see a huge cloud of smoke come rolling out of the back of the car, pulled over there was oil all over the inside of the drivers side tire, when I started the car again to see where it may be coming out of you could see oil pouring out from behind the torque converter like there was no tomorrow.

What I was thinking was since the speedo quit would the lock up have disengaged causing too much pressure and blowing the seal, is that even a possibility? the car was running just great prior to it.

thanks for the help

 

I wiped out a front seal once... just got the car back from Lee Myles, and went for a drive. Suddenly I'm trying to accelerate and going nowhere (rev, rev!), and people behind me are flashing their lights- suddenly I smell trans fluid. I yanked into a parking lot, and watched trans fluid pour from the front of the trans.

Lee Myles put in a great torque convertor; it's flange snapped in half, which cut the main seal, and messed up the fluid pump. They fixed it under warranty.

A year and a half after I paid $1300, when the trans blew up AGAIN, I had someone else rebuild it. I dropped it out of the car myself- and noticed the torque convertor flange was cracked. Hm. Did I get a new TC and fluid pump from Lee Myles, or did they just change the front seal?? The rebuilder said the cause of death was a cracked torque convertor flange, which wedged itself in the fluid pump, and blocked fluid to the trans, which caused everything to burn up.

 

when I rebuilt mine I put a brand new TC in it as well, never had any problems and it was still pulling when I saw the smoke roll out and immediately pulled over, *** I need the cash to do the T-56!

 

I just recently blew my pump in my 700R4. The guy is trying to say I neutral drop to lock up the pump...when the last time I had neutral dropped was about 3 months before the tranny blew, its getting fixed right now, getting a new TC(stock..sucks) new pump, and a whole rebuild. What happened was weird...I pulled out on the highway, floored it, it went into 3rd...dropped to 2nd, kept going back and forth, and look in the rear-view...smoke rollin' out the back, pull over, fluid everywhere...but as long as it wasn't at wide open throttle it worked fine, except I think I burn't up the clutch pack from 2nd to 3rd cause it would vibrate going into 3rd...Shi.... Its time for a 5 Speed, I'm sick of this automatic transmission

 

It's a common problem with the 700r4's. Sloppy bushing clearances, and a small drainback passage with some RPM's behind it and pop out it comes. The fix is to open up the drainback (drill), clean the seal bore with acetone and locktite red it in, and use a seal retainer...Like a ring with teeth that bite into the snout.

 

thanks for the info, if I remember right (been 3 years or so) I put that seal retainer back on it, but when I get the chance to pull it out and its not well I guess Ill get another and put the loctite on it! do you have to pull the pump out to drill that hole? and if so what size drill bit did you use to open it up?
thanks
Jack

 

Let me see: No Speedo=No Lock Up. This leads to a hot Trans which doesn't help matters with an aluminum Pump. You don't see seals pop out on cast iron Pumps. As was mentioned you need to have good bushings/Converter and enlarge the drainbacks all the way through the Pump. Either stake or LockTite the Pump Bushing in place and get L/U working.

 

Does the whole tranny have be removed in to install a new front main seal

 

yeah pretty much since you have to be able to get the Torque converter out of the way to put the seal in, Its a pain in the ARSS but this time I made sure I put the retainer clip on and actually had cut some grooves around the snout of the punp so the clip would have something to grab hold of.

 

Wow, this post got pulled up from 2002!

Yep, you need to pull the tranny and torque converter to get at it. You need to remove the pump to drill the drainback passage.

All my 700R4 pics can be found here:

http://stinker.serveftp.net:8000

Mozzilla/Firefox/Netscape users need to enable this port in the user.js file.....

IE works ok though.

http://stinker.serveftp.net:8000

 

thats awsome joel