Question on removing manual trans & clutch...
Question on removing manual trans & clutch...
I was reading my shop manual, getting ready to drop my T-5 and bellhousing so I can replace the clutch on my '84 T/A (completely stock setup, btw). I noticed that the steps outlined didn't make any mention of having to support the engine while doing this. Is this correct- will the engine stay safely in place while I remove the transmission and bellhousing, or should I support it somehow? And if so, what's the best/safest way to support the rear of the engine while I'm replacing the clutch?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 4
From: Tallahassee, FL. USA
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Crate Motor
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.73
No, the motor will be fine, though it will lean towards the rear a little, depending on if your exhaust is loose or not.
I usually have to loosen up my header-Y-pipe connection to get the motor to lean back any.
I've done the clutch nine times in my RS.
-Rich-
I usually have to loosen up my header-Y-pipe connection to get the motor to lean back any.
I've done the clutch nine times in my RS.
-Rich-
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 842
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Originally posted by David Trimble
Rich- will it lean back far enough where I might want to remove the distributor to keep it from hitting the firewall?
And on the Y-pipe- should I need to, do I need to loosen both exhaust manifold connections, or just one? (you make it sound like you only need to loosen one of the manifold connections)
David
Rich- will it lean back far enough where I might want to remove the distributor to keep it from hitting the firewall?
And on the Y-pipe- should I need to, do I need to loosen both exhaust manifold connections, or just one? (you make it sound like you only need to loosen one of the manifold connections)
David
so you may want to do somethin about that
Originally posted by NJITIROC
ive only seen once a post where the distributer hit the firewall which was just cause for having to go get a new distributor (at least cap and rotor)
so you may want to do somethin about that
ive only seen once a post where the distributer hit the firewall which was just cause for having to go get a new distributor (at least cap and rotor)
so you may want to do somethin about that
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 4
From: Tallahassee, FL. USA
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Crate Motor
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.73
Yes, it's a good idea to remove the distributor cap.
Don't need to remove the whole thing.
If you need to loosen the exhaust do it where the manifolds attach to the y-pipe.
-Rich-
Don't need to remove the whole thing.
If you need to loosen the exhaust do it where the manifolds attach to the y-pipe.
-Rich-
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Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 842
Likes: 1
From: Bergen County, NJ
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Originally posted by David Trimble
Just remove the cap? Even better
I'll do that then if it'll give me enough clearance.
Just remove the cap? Even better
I'll do that then if it'll give me enough clearance. Thread
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