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Question on removing manual trans & clutch...

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Old Dec 1, 2002 | 09:38 PM
  #1  
David Trimble's Avatar
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From: OK
Question on removing manual trans & clutch...

I was reading my shop manual, getting ready to drop my T-5 and bellhousing so I can replace the clutch on my '84 T/A (completely stock setup, btw). I noticed that the steps outlined didn't make any mention of having to support the engine while doing this. Is this correct- will the engine stay safely in place while I remove the transmission and bellhousing, or should I support it somehow? And if so, what's the best/safest way to support the rear of the engine while I'm replacing the clutch?

Thanks!
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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 09:54 AM
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RICH92RS350's Avatar
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From: Tallahassee, FL. USA
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Crate Motor
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.73
No, the motor will be fine, though it will lean towards the rear a little, depending on if your exhaust is loose or not.
I usually have to loosen up my header-Y-pipe connection to get the motor to lean back any.
I've done the clutch nine times in my RS.
-Rich-
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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 04:29 PM
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David Trimble's Avatar
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Rich- will it lean back far enough where I might want to remove the distributor to keep it from hitting the firewall?

David

Last edited by David Trimble; Dec 2, 2002 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 04:35 PM
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Originally posted by David Trimble
Rich- will it lean back far enough where I might want to remove the distributor to keep it from hitting the firewall?

And on the Y-pipe- should I need to, do I need to loosen both exhaust manifold connections, or just one? (you make it sound like you only need to loosen one of the manifold connections)

David
ive only seen once a post where the distributer hit the firewall which was just cause for having to go get a new distributor (at least cap and rotor)
so you may want to do somethin about that
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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 04:38 PM
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David Trimble's Avatar
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Originally posted by NJITIROC
ive only seen once a post where the distributer hit the firewall which was just cause for having to go get a new distributor (at least cap and rotor)
so you may want to do somethin about that
Agreed. I didn't know how far back the engine would lean, but it's cheap insurance to just yank it and drop it back in and spend 1 minute with the strobe light....
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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 04:38 PM
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RICH92RS350's Avatar
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From: Tallahassee, FL. USA
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Crate Motor
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.73
Yes, it's a good idea to remove the distributor cap.
Don't need to remove the whole thing.

If you need to loosen the exhaust do it where the manifolds attach to the y-pipe.

-Rich-
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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 04:39 PM
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camarokev400's Avatar
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From: Norwalk, Ohio
i removed my distributer cap when i put in my new clutch only because i did not want to break my new accell supercoil
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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 04:41 PM
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Just remove the cap? Even better I'll do that then if it'll give me enough clearance.
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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 04:50 PM
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Originally posted by David Trimble
Just remove the cap? Even better I'll do that then if it'll give me enough clearance.
yeah cap should be enough.
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