How strong is a t-10? I know not having over drive would suck but if i can put on in and not have to worry about my tranny .. it would also be a bunch cheaper than a TKO or a T-56. anyoe got a 3rd gen with a 4spd?

 

I still have the factory T10 in my Z that I beat on with a juice addicted 355 all summer long..every summer.Had it rebuilt about 6 years ago..well worn with 143,000 miles on it then and besides changing the oil once a year..not a single problem...now my friends with T5/700R4's..well that is another story .A T10 is strong enough for most any healthy street/strip small block.

 

is there any spefic t-10 i need for a 3rd gen? Also do i need to hunt down a crossmember for a t-10? How about drive shaft length? and clutch?

 

You will need to find a T10 from an early third gen ('82) with the torque arm mount on the tailshaft.The clutch will need to be a 28 spline style...10.4"dia.I run the Centerforce dual friction with great results in the 3 years I have had it in.I beleive a crossmember for a T5 should work..check into that first though...but it will have to be moved farther forward to meet the mount on the tranny as the T10 is shorter than a T5 or 700r4..so drilling new holes is in order for that.Drivehsaft will need to be longer than stock..so a custom one is in order unless you can score one from a boneyard.It may cost quite a bit if you need to buy all the pieces..have you looked into a Tremec conversion from Forte's..it may turn out cheaper.The early third gen T10's are a hard find.

 

Were the early thirdgens the only cars from which a t-10 would work? There isn't something else with a t-10 that would be good?

 

Yes.

No.

At least, not without massive overhaul of a bunch of stuff, including obviously the torque arm system.

 

WHat all bits and peices would I need to get off of a parts car to use? tranny, crossmenber, drive shaft, and bell housing? will my clutch work?

 

You will also need the Z-bar and linkages.

 

The cross member will be fine but the trans mount will be different. There are a million aftermarket torque arm adapters or even setups that attach the torque arm to crossmember. I think if you pick a different year T10 the linkage will be the stickler. My buddy is halfway through exactly what you are talking about so I'll keep you posted (His chassis work is starting to pick up.)

 

Just a couple thoughts:

You will need the pivot ball that screws into the side of the engine block. (hopefully your block has the boss in it an it is drilled and tapped for the pivot ball).

If you have a 4 speed donor car, I would say get every thing from the clutch pedal all the way to the bell housing and clutch fork.

The Z-bar bracket that bolts to the frame is rather cheesy.
I welded the two pieces that bolt together and assembled the Z-bar to the bracket then dicked with it untill it was in position then bolted it down. Haven't had a problem since.

Use locktight red threadlocking compound on the shifter mounting bolts, they tend to loosen up. But then again, I don't shift like some girly man.

One other item. GM installed two different 4 speed transmissions in Thirdgens. The 76 mm and the 83 mm.
I'm not certain, but I think the 76mm tranny's were behind 4 & 6 cylinder motors, and the 83mm were behind the v-8s. ( the 83mm trans has larger diameter gears, so I would assume they are capable of handling the raw power of the LG4 better than the 76mm would).
Then again, i suppose they could have used the 83mm in the Z-28 package because it is a close ratio.
Either way, try to get the 83mm. It is distinguishable by the reverse fork being in the tailshaft housing.
The 76mm reverse fork is in the trans case.