I got my Trans Go shift kit in the mail. All the little pieces are kind of intimidating. I rebuilt a few automatics in school so it shouldn't be anything I can't handle. I'm a bit worried though. Did a search and it seems alot of guys on TGO had trouble with it and gave up or ruined their trans. Was this thing supposed to come with a video?? Mine didn't have a video.

 

Yes it comes with a video. Don't let the bad posts scare you off on putting in the transgo shift kit. You do not have people posting when things go right so you are seeing just the few who have installed the kit. I had a heck of a time gettting mine working including a $500.00 payment to the local trans. shop. Just make sure you get the video and when you drill a hole make sure there are no burrs around the holes!

By the way I just got my firebird back and I like the quick shifting of gears. If not for the stupid burr I wouldn't have had to have it fixed professionally.

 

There are kits with videos, and there are kits (like mine) that do not come with a video. You save about $20.00 if you forgo the video.

 

Since yours doesn't come with a video, does it come with more detailed instructions?

 

I see, well I can always use an extra $20. I started working on it tonight. I'm just going to take my time and be careful. I'll post an update when I'm finished.

 

Pro Built Automatics - A couple questions. First, why leave out the spring on the 3-2 control? Second, how do I remove the "metal sleeve" that holds the Line Bias in place?

EDIT: Also, when installing the new "Bootstrap" TV, What is the spacer thing for? The little plate that has "SHIFT KIT" stamped on it.

I may have more questions later, but so far everything is going smoothly. Thanks.

Mike

 

The part that says "Shift Kit" is to go inside the red TV spring, and it is to make sure that the throttle valve does not get stuck in the low line pressure area and the springs on the valve itself do just the opposite. I've only seen one hangup in the past 10 years. Leaving out the 3-2 downshift spring, gives a "quicker" 3-2 downshift. Use a scribe to get behind the steel sleeve in the casting and push upwards (same direction as the other pins) to remove the line bias valve. When installing the aluminum plug, champher both sides of the valve body with an oversize drill (3/8" or larger) bit before installing the aluminum plug.

 

Was there supposed to be a plug included in the kit? If not, what am I supposed to use to plug the hole?

 

There should be a small aluminum plug in the package (if you bought this from me) to go into the "F" hole.

 

Yes, I oredered it from you, order # 10144. There's no plug. Here's a list of everything:

new servo
servo D-ring kit
shim
blue spring
3 drill bits
new seals for 2nd Accumulator Body
blue spring for 2nd Accumulator Body
orange spring for 2nd Accumulator Body
spring seat for 2nd Accumulator Body
TV valve
red Line Bias spring
black 2nd piston spring
TV valve
brown spring for TV valve
tapered spring for TV valve
red TV spring
spacer
shim
Reverse and Intermediate Boost valve and bushing
snap ring
green spring
2 gaskets
2 cone shaped screen things (sorry, I don't know what these are called)

I believe that is everything that came with mine. I hope I didn't forget anything, but there definitely is no aluminum plug.

 

You should have it Monday or Tuesday.

 

Man, that was fast. It was here by 11:00am today.

 

Almost there...

The Boost Valve is being a b!tch. Finally got the old parts out, but now the snap ring doesn't want to go back in all the way. The second piston in the servo isn't going to come out without lowering the transmission either.

EDIT: I didn't realize there was a new valve stem inside the new bushing. I was trying to put it back in with the both the new and the old stems. This is why it is good to take your time and be careful.

 

make sure you keep us up to date on how everything works out.

 

Strange my 3/2 down shifts were kinda delayed when I installed the kit (I musta fubared something) no other problems though. Since I aint using it anymore any idea what I might be. Its much easyer to take apart on a table then in a car.

 

I started a new job this week, so I've been too busy to even touch my car for 3 days. Tonight I got the valve body, auxiliary valve body, and 2nd accumulator body put back in. Now all I have to do is finish installing the new servo. That valve body sure seems alot heavier going in than it is coming out.

Pro Built Automatics - Thanks again for all the fast and detailed help. That plug arrived at my house immediately. It's easy to see why you come so highly recommended on this board.

 

Are you sure you de-burred the hole when you installed the new valve and it moved freely?

 

Ok, I'm impressed.

It's like having a whole new transmission. At first I couldn't tell a big difference, but after driving it a while I started to notice all the little things. Shifts are really smooth during normal driving, but when you really get on it, the shifts are more firm. The down-shift will toss you back pretty good too. The roads were all wet tonight so I couldn't really test it's full potential.

 

How is the 2-3 upshift? Are you getting any kind of clunk at all?

RBob.

 

It's great. No noise at all.

 

Ok, great. If you don't mind I have another question. Did you use the 'Trans-Go bronze spacer ring' in the servo assembly?

This has to do with what Pro-Built said in your other thread.

(I'm on a mission to find a cure for the 2-3 shift snap/bang).

Thanks again,

RBob.

 

Yes, I did put in the spacer. I'm considering taking it back out though after what he said... if it isn't needed. The snap ring went in, but I'm concerned about how well it will hold under pressure. It doesn't look like it's completely in the groove, but i couldn't budge it myself after it went in.

 

I can understand your concern. Did the band wiggle/driveshaft tests pass? Even at that with what Pro-Built said it's six of one and a half-dozen of the other.

If you do decide to remove it. . . It will come out easy enough being that it is the second from last to go into the servo bore.

RBob.

 

If the transmission is working ok with the bronze ring in there, you do not have to take it out. The bronze ring is to "reduce" the clearance, if you have too much. The "minimum" safe clearance is what you want.

 

Yeah, if its working good, let it go. If it was to tight, the car would start out in second gear.