Well the 6-speed is in! I have a new SLP Clutch disc and used P/P and flywheel. Everything works exept:

The first 5/6 or so of the clutch pedal is worthless. The clutch doesn't engage until the pedal is almost at the top? What did I do wrong?

-Rippin

 

[What did I do wrong? ]

Nothing, that is typical for the T-56 swap.
I believe the firewall is in a different location on our third gens.
You might put a spacer between the clutch master cylinder to move it back a little ways from the firewall mounting. (been there,done that)

HTH

 

yep, thats how mine is. you could make yours adjustable like some others here did.

 

Yep mine's like that too. It seems to work fine and doesn't slip (I don't think ) Does spacing out the master cylinder really help? The only thing I worry about is if the clutch fully engages or not since the friction point is so high, but like I said it doesn't seem to slip so I'm guessing it's not a problem. Anyway this is something I've wondered about some too, so any other thoughts on it would be appreciated!

-Paul

 

How would you go about making the master cylinder adjustable? I know McLeod and RAM sell adjustable master cylinders but they are a little pricey, plus you then have to bleed the hydraulics which is a PITA. I haven't seen the RAM setup, but the McLeod m.c. looks nice but it's $250.00 at thunder racing.

 

By putting a spacer between the master cyl. mounting and the firewall, the pedal will be lower, so then it will engage sooner.
Try it, it works.

 

don't take this wrong but, do a search. bassically you cut the rod by the pedal make it shorter thread both halfs and go to the hard warestore buy two nuts and one of those adjusters looks like a 2" wide nut. you can spin the one end of the rod in and out and lock it solid with the two nuts when you find the right length. this will move the pedal hight down more. but, do a search there is a pic of it which explains it much better


oh, and i have slipped mine a couple times if i give it hell. seems like the t-5 one. I guess I will need to get a stronger pressure plate

 

Dyno Don-

I could be wrong but it basically seems like this would just move the pedal down lower, making the cluth grab when the pedal is closer to the floor. When in reality the clutch is grabbing at the same point. Is this correct or am I misunderstanding? Still a cool idea just for the feel of it. I may be wrong so please explain if I am.


88 350 TPI-

This seems like a great idea, and I found the picture. Couldn't you also raise the pedal to give you a little longer stroke of the M.C. which would then make the slave cylinder travel a little further? This could be useful if you are having problems w/ the clutch engaging maybe after having a little too much material taken off the flywheel or something like that.

These are just crazy ideas guys, I could be completely wrong.

 

It seems to me like both of these methods just change where the pedal physically sits, but don't affect the stroke of the MC at all. Maybe I'm way off base or missing something here? Please enlighten me if I'm just being stupid lol

-Paul

 

Paul- That's what I was thinking about the method using spacers. But it seems to me that using the other method you could make the M.C. rod longer. This would raise the pedal, but it would also keep the M.C. in the same place which would give you a longer stroke for the M.C.

Like I stated earlier I could be way off here.

 

Original question:
The first 5/6 or so of the clutch pedal is worthless. The clutch doesn't engage until the pedal is almost at the top? What did I do wrong?

What this signals is, the master stroke is too long, thereby making you have to raise the pedal too far before it engages.
By putting a spacer between the master and the floor is moves the pedal down so it hits the floor sooner and stops the master from traveling so far. (pushing the slave out ) Some times the stroke will cause the fork to hit the pressure plate (mine did) installing the spacer stops this too.
You can also put a spacer between the slave and the mounting to lessen the stroke. So if you use one of these methods you won't have 4-5" of travel before the clutch engages.

I could be wrong but it basically seems like this would just move the pedal down lower, making the clutch grab when the pedal is closer to the floor. When in reality the clutch is grabbing at the same point. Is this correct or am I misunderstanding? Still a cool idea just for the feel of it. I may be wrong so please explain if I am.

Isn't this what we're after here. (original question)

I hope this makes it clearer.

 

Don- thanks for clearing that up. I just wanted to make sure I understood correctly.

 

well, here is one for you. when I first put mine in the fork hit the pressure plate so I cut the base of the fork arm piviot down. I am sure this is on here somewhere too. ends up making the pedal really grab sooner but, still has enough play at the fork to fully release the clutch when not on the pedal. I also used a balance plate behind my flywheel so thats something I had to deal with and I am sure had alot to due with my problem

 

That's a cool idea. Any pics?

 

nope sorry, I was pissed at the time and I took the transbolts turned the mostly out and pulled the trans back about 1" maybe a little more leaving the bolts in and the trans resting on the trans/torque arm mount . took my gear wrench and undid it shaved it down then put it back in and so on. It was one of those (any thing but, pull the trans. so that was my only choice with out removing the thing)