Will a 140k 10-bolt with an SLP Posi unit, TA Cover/studs and good 3.73 gears hold up to the toruqe of a 383 TPI? Maybe ~300hp and 400-450lb/ft. No slicks, maybe DR in the future. Oh, and a T56. Or would it be an absolute waste putting money into it and just get a 9"/12-bolt? Thanks

-Rippin

 

depends on how you apply the power. it's easy to break one with less engine and you're able to make one last with a stronger engine.

 

I went thru the same set of questions a while back. I rebuilt my 10 bolt with a 3:73 Richmond Gear, Moser axles, a stout locker, and a support cover. I have around $1400.00 (parts & labor)into the rearend now (I have not broken it yet but I have not really abused it either). If I had used my brain, I would have spent the extra $500 to $700 bucks and just gotten the Ford 9" inch right off the bat. I have found out that most of the time on a built 10 bolt you are still stuck with breaking teeth off of the the weak 7.5 (7.625 same thing) ring gear or pinion or both. Slicks are out of the question, don't drive stupid...(rev it up and drop it into gear, spin your wheels on ice then hit a dry spot, etc.) maybe it will last a long time.

In the future I want to run street slicks to take advantave of all the power potential my 355 has, so I will be bolting in a Ford 9" (9" is just my choice, 12 bolt is nice too).

Take my advice. If you have already built the 10 bolt, run it (be nice to it), if you have not built it yet, and have not spent any money on it, DON'T, it is not going to last thru any real abuse.

If you can afford it, just go buy a 9" or 12 bolt instead.

I have heard this debate go either way several times. My overall outlook is, the 10 bolt may last.... or it may not. If it does last, you saved money.... if it breaks, you just spent more than what it would have cost to bolt in a 9" or 12 bolt to begin with.

The choice is up to you. If I could do it all over again, I would not have waisted my money on the 10 bolt.

 

A 12 Bolt or Nine Inch will not allow a factory rear sway bar and could complicate what kind of brakes you wish to run. Keep in mind that a 2000 rear end does not include brakes. $$$$$

 

Have you thought about a 9 bolt? Supposedly they are good to 400 hp. Not as strong as a Dana 44, but not bad.

 

I've considered it, and even looked for a few. Gears for them are insanely expensive (300+) then you need an install kit (another 100). And 3.70 9-bolts are really rare. If I find one for a good price, I'd probably pick it up.

Where can you find a Moser 9"? I couldn't find it on their website. I've got a set of LTI discs sitting in the garage, will they bolt up to a 9"? I think you can get 3.89/90 gears with that rear too, which would be perfect because I'm stuck between 3.73's and 4.10's. What swaybar problems will I run into? Will I still have that problem with the 12-bolt? Are there any distinct advantages/disadvantages to either? I'd love to have one, but are they really 2k? And I geuss I can't get a used one because they have no torque arm mount right?

 

Check out Currie Enterprises. http://www.currieenterprises.com/

 

Yes they (Currie) do have the torque arm mount on both the 9" and 12 bolt. As for the swaybar problem, this was new to me. So I emailed them to find out what the deal is. It makes sense that the stock one won't fit due to differen't dimentions of the housings. I never gave it any thought before and never asked when I was talking to the sales rep on the phone. It would be interesting to see if a rear sway bar from an early 70's Nova or F-Body with a 12 Bolt can be modified to work. A friend of mine has a 70 Nova SS with a 427 (obviously not OEM) and a 12 Bolt with the sway bar. I will have to go and look at it.