I was wondering if anybody out there is using one of these? If so how do you adjust it, and are the settings incremental eg. 5500, 5750, 6000, 6250 etc.? Also what is the highest rpm you can set them for?

 

You experiment with different combinations of weights and springs until you find a set that gives you the behavior you want.

 

Heavier springs & weights = later shifts
Lighter springs & weights = earlier shifts

Kind of vague? I think so too - but those are the "tips" b&m wrote themselves for the kit! They say to start off right next to stock. One step in either direction (heavier/lighter) and then work from there. If you don't have the time (might require hours and hours) I would call a transmission shop and settle on a flat fee for them to get it right. My guy charged me 50 bucks flat fee. I wouldn't pay more than 150 bucks. Good luck!

** If the shop cannot get it right, tell them to switch to a combo that will make the shifts come very early (about 4500rpm wot). That way, you'll have gas mileage in full effect and when you want to race you can manually shift at later RPMs. Thats what happened to me, but it was a happy accident. I like the gas mileage from conservative auto-shifts, but when I want to race the shifter is all mine

 

You are just a little off.

Heavier springs & Heavier weights = earlier shifts
Lighter springs & Lighter weights = later shifts

Jerry

 

Yep, I just ordered that kit for my pro-built.net trans. It's going to really suck to set it up. I'll be pulling a lot of mph waiting for the 2-3 shift... And there's nothing like testing the rev limiter for the first time.

If anyone would like to literally spell out the procedure, it would sure make my life easier. Thanks.

 

Sorry about that

Well that's the thing buddy, every transmission is a little different.
My shift points couldn't be gotten at all for some reason! When my guy would get the 1/2 shift, he would mess up the 2/3 shift. When he fixed the 2/3 shift, the 1/2 would go funky again! He thinks it has something to do with the rebuild I had done about 15,000 miles ago. It's just going to take patience, and trial and error. If you need it done FAST in time for a track event just make the shifts very early, so you can manually shift when you want to.

 

Sometimes the transmission when it was rebuilt, might have had a mismatch in the 1-2, 2-3 , 3-4 shift valves, which would account for getting one shift right and another wrong. Changing governors can sometimes help, or a combination of both. This can be very time consuming, but if you are a perfectionist, it can be done. Otherwise set it up to shift early at WOT, and then manually shift the transmission at WOT where you want. If you cannot hold 1st gear, (it comes out on its own) then you will need a Trans-Go Performance Shift kit. This will allow you to hold any gear to any rpm.

 

Right now the stock setup shifts at 4500 rpm. (LG-4) So I am Planning on leaving the factory gov. sounds like too much hastle to change.

So, I screwed up and installed a B&M shift kit before I knew that they were S**t. I used the stage 1 heavy duty kit and not the high performance stage 2 street kit. Will I be able to hold first gear as long as I need to with this shift kit? I had to remove a spring from the valve body, add two pins that cut out half the travel of the 1-2 and 3-4 acumulator pistons, and drill out three holes on the seperator plate. If I still can't hold 1st or 2nd gear, then would using the pin to block the line bias valve work? Or should I leave that part alone?

I don't want to spend another $50 on a shift kit unless I have to. (ol'lady already pissed about the other $12,000 I spent so far)