i put a dual friction c/f, hays flywheel, new slave cylinder, and lakewood bellhousing. got it all put together and the clutch wont work right. i adjusted the pivot ball as far out as it would go and it still wont disengage. I have no idea whats going on. Not to metion my hooker shorty headers hit the bellhousing!! Im using the stock gm fork and c/f throw out bearing. Anyone have any ideas? do i need a longer throw out bearing to take up the play? there is a bunch of play when your not pushing the clutch.

 

Are you running a T5 or T56?

If the slave is a push type that mounts on the transmission side of the bellhousing you may have the ball adjusted the wrong way. Try it full in and see if it improves.

If it doesn't you may need an adjustable slave cylinder. McLeod and others make them.

 

You may need to adjust the ballstud as I believe there is a height difference between the mechanical (used on 83-down) ballstud and the hydraulic ballstuds. If you're running the Lakewood 84-92 replacement bell, you have the stud in the right place, but I don't think the height is quite right.

You do not need an adjustable slave cylinder.

 

Talk to mike at Forte's parts connection. He knows and sells the proper height ball stud for your bellhousing you are using.
Also you will have to grind clearance on the scattershield for your headers to clear. My SLP Y-pipe didn't clear the scattershield either. Thats what I did.

www.fortesparts.com

 

I'd be more inclined to grind the headers or dimple them slightly than modify the scattershield. If you modify it it won't be NHRA legal anymore, plus it could fail, and having a clutch cut your legs off is never any fun.

 

I wouldn't worry about the edge of it being removed for header or ground clearance. Messing with the rest of it, yeah...

You can always get it recertified if you do just an edge.

 

Yeah, as long as it's just part of the flange. It sounded like he was talking about the body of it, but I could have been mistaken. Didn't want people to think it was okay to just modify SFI approved stuff.

 

Considering he'd be modifying the passenger side of the bell, and just the lower part, it is. But not good enough for a proper tech inspection.

 

It actually was the lower passenger side flange of the housing that neede to be clearanced ground for the Y-pipe to fit on the car.
The trouble with aftermarket mfg's. is that they market a set of headers (for ex.) and design them to mount on a car with a stock bellhousing. Not a full scattershield. Its up to us to work out the clearance problems to make things fit beyond that. I would never
sacrifice safety for fit/finish or performance!
If the fit is so bad that minor grinding for clearance can't fix it, the ultimate fix would be to have a custom y-pipe made that will fit.