I have a tci street fighter 700R4 trans. Just installed a 3500rpm non-lockup converter. I disabled the trans from trying to lock up . I do have a trans cooler. Will it fry my trans to cruise in OD? I have heard different stories. There is at least one PRO transmission builder here, maybe they will know

 

no as long as you have a good trans cooler.i drive in overdrive all the time no problems.

 

To run a non-lockup TC, you will need to install the non-lockup valve fron Trans-Go in the front pump, it replaces the TCC lockup valve. Then remove the seal & checkball capsule from the input shaft. This valve fills the TC the opposite way.

 

So the trans will have to come back out,again. yeah! How much is that valve? Do you think my transmission will get damaged by using OD for light cruise, untill I get the non-lockup valve?

THANKS!!!!!

 

Could you give me a touch more detail on this?

Thanks again!

 

there are many many people on here not running the lock up with no problems at all.

 

The shaft that sticks out from the transmission (input shaft). At the end there is a little cage that retains a checkball. If you use a non-lockup converter, there is no need for that checkball anymore and you can remove it to increase flow.

 

If you are cuising below your stall speed in overdrive, the tranny will heat up badly(better get some low rearend gears in there). Heat kills automatic transmissions- every 20* increase in fluid temp will cut the trans life in half, again EVERY 20* increase.

I speak from experience, not hearsay.

 

I was just wanting to get by for a short time w/o the non-lockup valve,etc. How fast do you think it takes to really mess things up? Some guys here run fine w/o lockup(or mods to convert to non). I don't have a trans temp gauge. It has drove maybe 40 miles one way, highway driving and not gotten hot(fluid still red and never slipped). I just don't want to drive it and mess things up. Wonder how much that non- lockup valve cost?

Share your experience

 

I ran mine in my 84 Vette for 4 years with no lockup.
Then I fixed my wiring and I now have lockup.
The transmission shifted much smoother without lockup.

I'm seriosuly considering disabling the lockup again.

No damage was done to the trans. during those 4 years.

Fluid stays clean,red and smells nice.
I have changed it once. during the 4 years.

 

BTW...you don't need to do anything to disable lockup except to not activate the lockup solenoid.
To activate the solenoid and engage lockup you have yo apply +12 volts to the TCC control pin on the case connector.
If the solenoid is not activated, you have no lockup.

I'm sure there are other ways to do this (like the capsule in the input shaft) but if the tranny is in the car, what the heck, just don't wire it up and you won't have lockup.

There has probably been a LOT more of them burned up due to a misadjusted TV cable than burned up by no lockup.

 

Friend of mine has no lockup , a MUCH smaller trans cooler then i have, with the trans ran just through the cooler Going on like 3 years now and has had 0 problems.

 

A short haul like that is really insignificant- do it everyday for a year and you'll fry the trans with that high of a stall speed. The fluid will go bad quick- how quick depends on how hot it gets and how fast it varnishes. could be weeks, or could never if you are cruising at or above the stall speed. Also note that more weight the vehicle is, the more heat developed.

Gears and weight determine everything when choosing a stall speed with a non-lockup. I wiped a trans out in about a year with a 2400stall comvertor on my Chev truck (Jet transmission- 700r4- ot the claim it to be a T700-what a piece of crap that was internally when Jimmy at Darrell Youngs tore into it later to check how they were built). Anyways, I ran 3.42's at that time and cruised 70 mph at about 2000rpms (nonlockup-was told sales pitch that Non-lockup was the way to go if you tow or carry lots of weight in OD-but stall speed and rearend gears were never asked about).

I now years later run a fully built 700r4 WITH lockup on a 9" rearend w/3.70's and a 1800 stall. The valvebody is blueprinted and lots of very custom goodies done to it (all the latest and greatest including 5 planetary gears, .521 boost valve and a block accumulator to name a few). The car will NOT downshift out of OD above 70 unless I manually shift it (even if floored) That was I'm not modulating between 3rd and OD unless I want to. Trans temp stays at 175* always -deep sump, and lots of plumbing into a BeCool rad, then into a temp comtolled Derale 8-pass 2ndary cooler for those heavy loads and hot days(added insurance)
I average about a tranny every 5 years in this truck even with them built and super cooled. But I lost the Nonlockup with the high stall in about 1 year from heat.

 

Opps, I can't edit- Excuse my spelling above- also the "2400stall coMvertor" is suppose to be 2200stall coNvertor, My bad.

 

My car weighs 3350lbs w/o driver or fuel. It will cruise on the highway at 2500-3000rpms. Uphill it'll go to 3500rpms. This is at 75-80mph. The rear gears are 3:42......


So you are saying that I don't need a non-lockup valve? The street fighters are setup to only lock in 4th(vac sensor) or by a toggle switch. I cut the 12 volts to trans and disconnected the vacuum. That's the same as buying a non-lockup valve? Others have also said that stopping the trans from trying to lockup is KEY. When the tcc locks, fluid bypasses the cooler lines,yes? 87_t/a has ran w/o lockup too and didn't have the non-lockup valve.Pro built said I need one. I want to do it 100% correct.

 

To do it 100% correct, you need to put the non-lockup valve in and make the appropriate modifications to the cooling circuit. This is with a non-lockup torque converter.