No Drive or Reverse in my 700r4 Happened while I was driving
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Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 135
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From: Kaneohe, Hawaii, USA
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: B2L
Transmission: MD8
Axle/Gears: 2.77 9 Bolt
No Drive or Reverse in my 700r4 Happened while I was driving
I did search the boards but didn't find the situation that led to no drive or reverse.
I drove my '88 IROC (TH 700R4) down the road and shortly after, while my foot on the gas (part throttle) the engine suddenly revved much higher. I immediately pulled over and looked under my car.
Driveshaft was still there, didn't fall off.
No transmission fluid leaks.
Engine still ran fine.
Checked fluid level (was in the cross hatched area since engine was still not fully warmed) and the fluid didn't smell burnt, was still red (not dark), no metal specks came out either.
Got back in car and shifted the gears and found no Drive or Reverse. I did hear the gears (Drive or Reverse) engaging, but when I applied the throttle, the car only moved a couple of inches and no more.
I read that the TV cable could have been out of adjustment. I readjusted the TV cable but still no Drive or Reverse.
My IROC is all stock. I changed the ATF once and sometimes twice a year to keep this GM automatic alive. Apparently it has worked and finally, this 16 yeard old TH 700R4 finally gave up.
And this trans has NEVER leaked ATF (not even the front seal) and never been rebuilt or reprogammed with a "shift kit." To me, this is unbelievable for a GM automatic. My other GM rear drive cars '78 Cutlass (TH350) and my '76 Monte Carlo (TH350) leak ATF. All my relatives with rear drive GM auto cars all leaked at one time or had to have their transmissions rebuilt.
What do you think?
I drove my '88 IROC (TH 700R4) down the road and shortly after, while my foot on the gas (part throttle) the engine suddenly revved much higher. I immediately pulled over and looked under my car.
Driveshaft was still there, didn't fall off.
No transmission fluid leaks.
Engine still ran fine.
Checked fluid level (was in the cross hatched area since engine was still not fully warmed) and the fluid didn't smell burnt, was still red (not dark), no metal specks came out either.
Got back in car and shifted the gears and found no Drive or Reverse. I did hear the gears (Drive or Reverse) engaging, but when I applied the throttle, the car only moved a couple of inches and no more.
I read that the TV cable could have been out of adjustment. I readjusted the TV cable but still no Drive or Reverse.
My IROC is all stock. I changed the ATF once and sometimes twice a year to keep this GM automatic alive. Apparently it has worked and finally, this 16 yeard old TH 700R4 finally gave up.
And this trans has NEVER leaked ATF (not even the front seal) and never been rebuilt or reprogammed with a "shift kit." To me, this is unbelievable for a GM automatic. My other GM rear drive cars '78 Cutlass (TH350) and my '76 Monte Carlo (TH350) leak ATF. All my relatives with rear drive GM auto cars all leaked at one time or had to have their transmissions rebuilt.
What do you think?
Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 129
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From: Arkansas
Car: 85 T/A
Engine: Rebuilding
Transmission: 700R4
Ive got a 94 buick regal with a 4T60E that wont go anywhere until the car has been running for 30 minutes and the fluids are all warmed up. Then it will shift into gear with a clunk and jerk and then go. Before its warm you can shift into any gear and rev all you want and it wont go anywhere. I dont think your problem is the same since it happened when you were driving. All I can think of is maybe the pump is gone and you dont have enough pressure to get the car going. Dont know how hard it is to replace the pump maybe some of the other guys can offer some advice.
Wesdog
Wesdog
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Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 135
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From: Kaneohe, Hawaii, USA
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: B2L
Transmission: MD8
Axle/Gears: 2.77 9 Bolt
Filter Tube?
I didn't drop the pan on the trans yet, but could the plastic atf filter tube that goes up into the trans be cracked? Possibly causing no fluid reaching the oil pump?
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Kaneohe, Hawaii, USA
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: B2L
Transmission: MD8
Axle/Gears: 2.77 9 Bolt
Pulled Pan
I pulled the trans pan and found no burnt atf, normal amount of metal shavings (very little), no chunks of metal in there, oil filter pickup tube was fine and not clogged.
Put new atf and filter in. Shifted the gears and the car now moves a lot more than it did the day it broke down. It still won't drive or reverse like normal, though.
So, it's time to take it to a shop or find a decent used 700r4.
Put new atf and filter in. Shifted the gears and the car now moves a lot more than it did the day it broke down. It still won't drive or reverse like normal, though.
So, it's time to take it to a shop or find a decent used 700r4.
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 1
From: Kaneohe,HI
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 383 in building process
Transmission: 700r4
Awwww man. I just found this thread. Sorry bout your trans man! I would help you out with dropping the trans but I can't, being that Carrie & I have a daughter now, it's harder to do things. (Don't know if I told you that we had a kid) Hope you get it fixed soon!
Anthony
Anthony
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Kaneohe, Hawaii, USA
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: B2L
Transmission: MD8
Axle/Gears: 2.77 9 Bolt
Used 700R4
Yeah, it went out a week and a half ago. You got a spare transmission at your house?
I checked out a used GM rebuilt 700r4 from a 91-92 Z28. Pulled the dipstick and the fluid smelled burnt, was dark brown in color, and siting in for a year. Probably had lots of miles on that rebuild. I'm not willing to take a chance on that by installing it only to have to pull it out again and do it all over again.
So, maybe time to take it to a trans shop. Kinda steep for me to drop like $1300+. I could rebuild it myself, but requires lots of special tools and time.
I checked out a used GM rebuilt 700r4 from a 91-92 Z28. Pulled the dipstick and the fluid smelled burnt, was dark brown in color, and siting in for a year. Probably had lots of miles on that rebuild. I'm not willing to take a chance on that by installing it only to have to pull it out again and do it all over again.
So, maybe time to take it to a trans shop. Kinda steep for me to drop like $1300+. I could rebuild it myself, but requires lots of special tools and time.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Kaneohe, Hawaii, USA
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: B2L
Transmission: MD8
Axle/Gears: 2.77 9 Bolt
Where is the Governor Gear?
I didn't take the transmission apart. I do have a TH700R4 manual with an exploded view of all the internal parts.
What is the governor gear and where is it? Is it the "sun" gear? Planetaries? Carrier? A valve body part?
What is the governor gear and where is it? Is it the "sun" gear? Planetaries? Carrier? A valve body part?
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,017
Likes: 13
From: Troup, Texas
Car: 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: ZZZ# 0607 of 1200 produced
Transmission: Pro-Built 700R4/Vig.2400
Axle/Gears: 3.27 BW 9 Bolt PBR Disc
Same EXACT thing happened to me a few weeks ago. I gave up on the idea of a rebuild as I have had horrible luck in the past with other cars. I am going to go with a new unit, haven't decided from who yet though. Anyone suggest a brand? Best of luck man!
Will
Will
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Where is the Governor Gear?
Originally posted by Blackbari
What is the governor gear and where is it?
What is the governor gear and where is it?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Kaneohe, Hawaii, USA
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: B2L
Transmission: MD8
Axle/Gears: 2.77 9 Bolt
Towed it to the trans shop
I had my IROC with TH700R4 towed to a trans shop today. I made sure the engine ran before the tow man came. Engine ran fine. The tow man arrives and we had to push it out of the garage. I figured run the engine to make steering the car easier. BUT the car wouldn't start!!
No noise fro the starter, not even a "click," the engine won't even turn over. The fuel pump still works since I could hear it. I had the car sent to the shop anyway. Now what could be the problem? Dead battery? Starter (original 16 years old)solenoid went bad? Neutral safety switch? What else can go wrong?
No noise fro the starter, not even a "click," the engine won't even turn over. The fuel pump still works since I could hear it. I had the car sent to the shop anyway. Now what could be the problem? Dead battery? Starter (original 16 years old)solenoid went bad? Neutral safety switch? What else can go wrong?
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 1
From: Kaneohe,HI
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 383 in building process
Transmission: 700r4
What trans shop did you take it to? Is it at ******? Also, it could be the starter that went bad. Don't you hate it when things start to all go at once. Don't feel too bad though, cause those kinds of things have always happened to me! If it also makes you feel better, Carrie's Camaro is dead! It died on me around my house while test driving it with the new suspension. Hope your trans & starting problems get fixed though. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Kaneohe, Hawaii, USA
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: B2L
Transmission: MD8
Axle/Gears: 2.77 9 Bolt
Kiyo's
I took it to Kiyo's on Queen Street. They did my '78 Cutlass 10 years ago and used a Trans-Go shift kit. The Cutlass drove, performed, and shifted way better after the rebuild on the TH350.
I'll go check out my car today after work. I hope they've started by taking the trans out.
I'll go check out my car today after work. I hope they've started by taking the trans out.
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