I am about to attempt doing this and still have some shady areas.
Just want to verify I understand how pinion preload is set with these 2 methods.

First, when doing test setups and such, neither crush sleeve nor spacer is used when assembling the rear end. Then when pinion depth and backlash is accurate, I have to take everything apart and put it back to right way.

Crush sleeve:
You turn the pinion nut (torque required will be high, 300-400 ft-lbs, for the initial crushing) until preload is within spec. And you are done. Probably use a impact wrench to drive it on.

Solid spacer:
you select shims that will be slightly bigger than what is needed. Torque pinion nut to 125 ft-lbs and check preload. If less than spec, disassemble and reassemble with less shims. If greater than spec, use more shims. Probably use a torque wrench to get to 125 ft-lbs. Is this correct?

While figuring out solid spacer shim size, I can still use setup bearings. Then, once everything is known, I can assemble it all again using real, pressed-on bearings. right?

 

you're close but not quite right. with crush sleeve, leave it out while you set pinion depth, after you have correct shim, most likely .035, install crush sleeve, and new bearing if you're using a "checking" bearing. NO IMPACT WRENCH then tighten pinion nut and check preload as you go. for me it's easy to go too much on the little 7.5 rears so i tend to buy crush sleeves in pairs. never used a spacer, but intend to next rear i do.

 

You shouldn't use an impact wrench, but that isn't what I see most people doing unfortunately. It usually works though if you have a good amount of experience though.

Solid spacers are something I want to hear more about though.

 

I always start the crush sleeve with an impact gun, but like ede said buy the sleeves in pair, particularly if you're inexperienced. It's a fine line between starting the crush and overcrushing the sleeve. It's really hard to get the thing to start crushing with the rear in the car though, unless you've go the luxury of a lift. That's why I started using my impact gun.

Another option is the measure the crush sleeve that came out of the rear, and start the new sleeve in a press. Leave the sleeve slightly longer than the old one, install it and finish the crush to set preload.

 

well, I have the luxury of rear end being on the work bench in front of me (once I get the benches).

So how about anyone say anything about solid spacer version. That's what I want to go with, I just listed everything for understanding of what it is that I am actually doing.

As a side note, torque wrench or not to torque wrench:

chevy high performance torque wrench usage About 1/3 down the page, step in the left column. This is where I got the idea from.

this guy also uses a torque wrench and at the top of the page says you can use 3 ft breaker bar but he wouldn't recommend that.

 

What's the advantage of a spacer over a crush sleeve--strength?

 

The advantage of a solid spacer vs a crush sleeve is that over time the crush sleeve can lose some of the preload. I've seen this a lot on high mileage rears. You can either use a shim or two under the existing crush sleeve to regain the proper preload, or replace the crush sleeve and re-set the preload.

I wouldn't recommend using a torque wrench to try and start crushing the sleeve. Most torque wrenches only go to about 150 lbs.ft., and it could take double that to start crushing the sleeve. If you're dead set to do it by hand get a 1/2" breaker bar and stick a 2' section of 1/4" wall pipe over the handle for extra leverage. Then you've got to figure out how to hold the yoke still while you tighten the nut. It's fairly easy to make a tool to do this. Cut a piece of flat 1/4" plate steel to fit the yoke, and drill holes so that you can bolt the plate to the ears on the yoke. Drill a big hole in the center (1.5") so you can get a socket on the nut. Then weld an arm to the plate so you have enough leverage to hold it still. Pictures of such a tool have been shown in various car mags over the years.

Even with the right tools you probably need to use two people to get the sleeve started. One to hold and one to torque. I'm quite strong and I have trouble doing this by myself. 300 lbs./ft. is no joke. That's more than most of us weigh I'm sure, which means that using a 1' bar and standing on the end you still wouldn't have enough force to start to crush the sleeve!

 

All of that cutting and welding sounds dangerously close to "work". I wouldn't (and don't) do all that.

Go to Home Depot, and get about a 4' piece of 1½" x ¼" strip stock; drill 2 holes in it along the edge; and bolt it to the yoke by 2 bolts.

I won't bother to build a rear with a crush sleeve. You end up with too little torque on the nut to hold everthing still. I'd estimate about 150 ft-lbs tops to crush the crush sleeve. You have to stop tightening when the sleeve reaches the appropriate crush. With a solid spacer, you can easily put double that on the nut; and it will NEVER come loose if it's that tight.

 

RB, I was actually waiting for you to see this thread because I know you've been using solid spacers, but I still didn't get the answer to my original question.

Is the procedure I described for installing the pinion with the spacer accurate? or did I miss something?

 

No you're not really missing anything, your understanding of the procedure is mostly accurate.

The spacer (Ratech 4111) comes with instructions, that fill in some of the details. Basically, you want the same bearing preload as you would with a crush sleeve, which is in the neighborhood of 20-25 inch-pounds; and they tell you to tighten the nut to at least 125 ft-lbs when checking the preload, to make sure the bearing is slid all the way down and tightening against the crush sleeve. I tighten it MUCH tighter than that when finishing it. I use a 4' tool as pictured, and a 3' breaker bar; I'm guessing 250-300 ft-lbs. To get that much torque easily I'll lay the strip-stock tool on the floor and stand on it, and pull up on the breaker bar; again, that way I don't have to actually do very much "work". I hate work.

I find it much easier to hone a tail bearing out to where it slides on and off without a fight; and to put on a new one at final assembly. I keep a honed one around as a "tool".

 

Outstanding--two of my favorite writers on one subject.

 

thanks RB, that's exactly what I was looking for. Looks like I am finally going to do this thing. Still need to pick up bearing splitters tomorrow and receive parts from Moser on tuesday.

btw, I've been reading your previous posts before and invested 50 bucks into new setup bearings from Precision Gear just so there is no pressing until the very end.