Gummie

Since I had some spare time, I decided to wire a switch to lock the torque converter whenever I felt like it. True, I wouldn't use it often but it would still be fun to play with.

I followed the tech artical's advice and wired a switch between terminals A and F. When I took the car for a test drive, everything acted like it always had regardless of switch position.

There is a 12-13 volt difference between the two wires so I know it’s not a connection problem. I also tried jumping the terminals directly by shoving a wire into A and F just to see if something would happen. Nothing did.

My car has always engine braked heavily when you put the shifter in D (not overdrive), 2, or 1 but it doesn't do it at all in overdrive. Even though the car does engine break in D, 2, and 1 I don't think the converter is actually locked because the engine will rev up another 500 or so rpm when I hit the gas before I start to accelerate.

Anyone have any Idea what’s going on? I’ve always driven stick up to this point...

GTA matt

iTrader: (1)

With that switch you are talking about, the torque converter won't lock up until it hits second gear. fluid is not available in first gear to apply the torque converter clutch. Under normal operation without the switch, the torque converter will lock up in 3rd or 4th gear at speeds above 40mph or so. without your switch hooked up, see if the converter will lock normally. accelerate slowly, you should be able to feel 4 shifts. 1 to2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4, and 4 to lockup.

Another thing is that i am against these swithes. they put to much strain on the torque converter clutch and can cause premature failure under heavy acceleration.

If your converter doesn't lock up at all, you may have bigger problems.

Gummie

I figured that lockup wouldn't happen in first and when I was test driving, I was cursing around at 45 mph with the shifter in overdrive. Flipping the switch didn't do anything at all; the engine maintained the exact same rpm and when I would let off the gas, engine rpm would drop to the 1200 stall speed.

I did a search after posting this thread and read through a fair number of posts. Since everything is 100% stock electrically, I'm assuming there's a bigger problem somewhere.

Under normal driving conditions (before installing the switch and accelerating gently) I could feel the 1 - 2, 2 - 3, and 3 - 4 shifts but I could never feel anything beyond that (ie the TC locking). Does it only lock in overdrive/4th when you're going above 85 mph or will it do it lock you're holding steady at a lower speed? On the rare occasions that I have been above 85 (it’s hard to do so considering where I live), I still don't feel any difference and I know that the converter should be locked at that point.

I realize that people are against the switches and I myself am not too fond of the idea of putting unwanted strain on my transmission and torque converter. I did it mainly because I had some spare time and when nothing happened, I got worried.

The fact that I can engine break in 1, 2, and drive (yet still be able to rev about 500 before I start to accelerate) is weird too. Wouldn't that mean the TC is locking

GTA matt

iTrader: (1)

what gear ratio are you running in your rear? what rpm are at at 70 MPH? The torque converter lockup will knock about 300 rpm's off. With my 3.23's with converter locked up @ 70 i was running right on 2000 rpm.

Gummie

I'm running about the same at 70 (2000 RPM) and have the same gear ratio.

GTA matt

iTrader: (1)

then your torque converter is locking up normally. you probably just don't notice it engaging because above 45 it locks up simutaneously with the 4th gear shift. since i have work done to my tranny, the shifts are firmer, making it easier to know what it is doing. stock it was a little dificult to tell the 3rd and 4th gear shifts. I think you have nothing to worry about. the flair when getting back on the gas is normal.

Gummie

So I guess the switch is working, but the good ol' butt-o-meter isn't as sensitive as it used to be. I still find it weird that there's no easily noticeable difference with the switch on/off but I'll be happy that nothing seems wrong with the trans...

Bah. I just thought of something else that's questionable. This probably deserves it's own thread but here goes: when romping on it (70% to wot) and then suddenly letting off the gas when I hit the speed limit, the engine will stay in the lower gear (higher rpm) for a second or so and then the trans will shift in to the higher gear dropping rpm. I’ve also never gotten it to downshift from second to first even if it's only going 10 in second and bogging like crazy…

GTA matt

iTrader: (1)

for the first part of your question, it stays in the low gear for a second or so just because it takes that long for the governor to catch up. Can't help you on the second part though, mine will go into first up until about 15. Check the adjustment of you TV cable. Keep engine off, open the thottle body to WOT, check the play in the TV cable, it should be tight, no play. If you not sure of what your doing, don't adjust it. misadjustment will burn up the tranny in no time.

Fevre

I have a switch hard wired and when I have it on the t/c stays locked in 2-O/D, if you have it on and your rpm's drop in 2-O/D it is not locking. When locked you can make the car jump just like if you had a stick car. Any chance the trans is slipping?

naf

iTrader: (7)

Gummie: First, the engine braking you're feeling is the overrun clutch and not related to the lock up. It will only do this in 1,2,3. Second, if you wired a switch or jumped the terminals you should notice the lock up because it won't be locking concurrent with a gear shift. Trickster has supplied a troubleshooting chart with wiring diagram for the TCC lockup. Try:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ht=%2BUrgent+%