What's needed?
I know the input shaft is a different length and I need some kind of adaptor plate. My question is does this adaptor plate move the trans back so that I'll need a custom driveshaft length? I could care less about the wiring and the speedo, I'm just trying to find out how much this is going to cost me.
Please, if you're going to say get an Lt1 trans then don't, this trans has 11k miles and like I said, I'm getting a steal of a deal on it.

 

Is this gen1 sbc a 1-pc rear seal, or 2-pc rear seal?

 

1 piece

 

What's needed is a LT1 one instead.

You have 2 options:

1. Buy LT1 trans, sell LS1 trans

or

2. Buy LT1 trans and T-56 rebuild kit. Tear down both the LS1 one and the LT1 one. Put the clutch gear that fits Gen 1 motors into the case from the LS1 trans. Throw all remaining parts away; or, buy another rebuild kit, and reassemble the LS1 parts into the LT1 case, then sell it. Which to be totally honest, I'm not even sure that would work. So in addition to the foreseeable extra cash outlay, there's some risk too.



Hmmmm...... it's a real struggle trying to figure out which one is better.... maybe you can wrap your brain around it, but it's beyond a moron like me.

 

I have been searching for an lt1 t56 for awhile and cannot find one in my area. I really want to make the swap.

I really doubt youll be able to make the ls1 one work.

 

If you guys wouldn't mind I'd rather you not reply at all if you're going to ignore what I said.
First of, there is a 3rd option. I CAN use the LS1 trans because there was an article done in HotRod last year about it! So if I had that article I'd post it showing you that I do NOT need a damn Lt1 trans, only that would be easier...
So with that being said, I'm going to repeat myself and say please do not reply with "get an Lt1 trans" because I already know that's an option.

So does anybody know the parts needed? There are a few features I like about the LS1 T56 and the low miles make it even better.

 

I was thinking that they bolt right in. I thought that the only thing that ws really an issue was the clutch hydraulics. The LS1 tranny has a hydraulic throw-out bearing with a standard clutch and no provision for a throw-out fork & slave cylinder. I thought that all you needed to do was get a flywheel that would work and an LS1 clutch. I guess I had my head up my ***. I'd like to know what this adapter plate looks like though.

 

I would too . But I do know that the LS1 T56 has a longer input shaft and this is what is my main concern seeing as I don't want to get my driveshaft shortened nore do I want to tear into a practically perfect trans to replace the input shaft... but that is an option I would choose.
I found the following;
http://www.weirhotrodproducts.com/id2.html
I just don't know if that's for an LS1 trans but it appears to be since it says it allows you to keep the block mounted starter... but who knows since they are unclear about some things. It should be specific about the trans they're using but I'm pretty sure it's the LS1.

 

Well, changing from the funky LT1 "pull" clutch to a regular one would be great, as far as it goes; but none of that really matters a whole lot, if you go to stab the trans into the bell housing, and the clutch gear has to jam into the crank past the bottom of the pilot hole.

 

Call Mcleod tech line....I thought about buying one before I found a Lt1 style....They make an adapter and they also make a bellhousing that takes place of the adapter. They can explain it all to you......I think prices were even prety reasonable....Hope this helps....

 

Yup, that's the company that was in that article I heard about. I'll give them a call and see what they have to say. Hopefully it's a small company and I'll get to talk to somebody with experience.
Again, main reasons for LS1 T56; the throw out bearing isn't a fork but instead a hydralic all in one unit, 2nd, GM trusts it behind some pretty impressive motors, and 3rd it's got low miles. Also, incase I ever do go to an LS1 . It just makes more sence to me in the long run, especially at the price I'm getting this whole swap (pedals, trans, shifter, etc.).

 

The guy I talked sounded like he knew what he was talking about...good luck....

 

When you find out, post the parts required and the prices of said parts.

 

A ls1 t-56 will work with a LT1 bellhousing, 1 bolt will not go in but several people have verfied they have been fine without, the other option is a custom bellhousing. You do not need a lt1 t-56 however i'd recommend you get one as they are stronger than a ls1 t-56.

 

Okay, so the input shaft length has no effect on the driveshaft length (trans position) when matched up with the proper clutch?
Also, I've read a few places about the LT1 T56 being "stronger" but can't find any actual differences in regards to strength. I think I remember reading somewhere about having aluminum forks but I thought that was all non-viper spec. I'm super busy right now so I won't be able to call about the parts until tomorrow. When I do I'll be sure to report all my findings.

edit: In regards to the strength of the Lt1 being better than the Ls1, http://web.camaross.com/forums/archi...p/t-23657.html
and I tend to doubt that GM would effectively put a weaker trans behind a more powerful motor. From an engineering stand point, if the ONLY thing different with the actual trans itself is the input shaft then yes, the LS1 is weaker but the internals all appear to be identical.

 

Once again, quit posting misinformation and incomplete information. I've asked you repeatedly in the past.

Yes there are 2 bolts that won't line up between LS1 trans., and LT1 bell. But, at that point where shall you mount the fork pedestal pivot? Also, you won't have an opening for the fork / slave parts, nor a place to mount the slave.

And if you bolt an LS1 T56 to an LT1 bellhousing, the input will bottom in the crank / pilot bushing.

Additionally, there is NOTHING stronger about an LT1 T56 over an LS1 T56. Nothing. Not a single solitary item. The synchro linings are not stronger. The clutch release system on the LT1 T56 worked excellent. The clutch release system on the LS1 T56 kinda sucks. A fork introduces mechanical leverage, which is better than a throwout bearing.

[/semi-annual pasky correction fest. over & out]

 

Seriously, go suck a fat dick, im ****en sick of your smart *** ****. It will work and I don't give a **** how many t-56's you have owned.
http://www.mcleodind.com/newproducts.asp#BELLHOUSING

I repeat, go suck a fat dick.

Just give me a couple days as I have **** to do rather than sit here and riducule your ego further and show proof of a lt1 bellhousing on a lt1.

 

That doesn't make any sense. You're telling me that a fork (Lt1) is better than a hydralic (Ls1) setup because it's got mechanical leverage? If that's what you're trying to say then I disagree. The hydralic throwout bearing can have more or less mechanical advantage depending on it's piston size. I'd take a hydralic throwout bearing over a fork anyday because of the more even pressure distribution.
I still haven't called because I'm waiting to read this article that my friend has that goes into details about the swap. I hope all I have to do is get an adaptor bell housing and a different length input shaft.

 

Too bad it doesn't hurt to be dumb.

 

It makes plenty of sense. If you think about it, a longer lever has more effective advantage over moving an object than a shorter lever. Basic mechanical fact.

Now ask yourself why the LT1 release system works, and the LS1 system has problem after problem after problem.

Yes there are all the swap parts to do do most all of the LS1 trans behind Gen I/II swaps. But I'll stick with a fork setup instead of a throwout bearing setup.

 

Off topic.

1. Where the hell do you find a used LT1 T-56 for under a grand?

I have searched high and low. nothing. All the local salvage yards here in so cal act like I'm talking swahili.

2. When and if I do get a hold of a 94-97 T-56 can I put a G-force upgrade kit?

 

Ok...here are the facts...I have done the budget swap.

This is the cheapest way.

I used the stock 3rd gen flywheel, clutch and bellhousing (and all other compoments).

Bought the adapter plate from McLeod, he also has the special pilot bushing you will need, it is larger and mounts in the big hole in the crank not the small one.

You will have to shorten the driveshaft 2" and the torque arm. (I used the stock one shortened and refastened it to the trans)

You will have to make a crossmember.

You will have to cut the floor back more than with the LT1 and custom bend a shifter handle as it will hit the console (read...bend forward).
You will need the SGI speedo box.

Other than all that, if it meets your asperations "go for it"

Anything I forgot ....PM me.
Don>>>
PS: I just bought the after market one (no brainer).

 

You're comparing apples to oranges. A hydralic throwout bearing doesn't have mechanical leverage because it doesn't need it. Lt1 system is mechanical leverage into hydraulic back into mechanical where as an Ls1 system is mechanical into hydraulic making for a much more efficient system with less "slop."
So if you're going to tell me that a fork clutch is better than a hydraulic because it's got mechanical leverage then you need to review exactly how the clutch systems work.

DD, that's what I was afraid of. I don't want to go through the hassle of compensating for the transmission's position. It's a lot of work that I'd rather not do. I just thought if I could replace the input shaft I might be okay... wouldn't that make sense? That way I wouldn't need to move it 2" back in the car... or is there something I'm forgetting?

 

I'm sorry but the fork does add mechanical advantage to the fork system over the hyd. t.o. brg.

I can't give you an apples to apples comparison if this one doesn't work for you. Essentially identical master cylinder & pedals.

As far as slop, the parts in the LT1 release system are not prone to flex like mechanical linkage parts, so that's a relative non-issue. The added friction which is present happens to be a non-issue as well; your left leg is isolated from that minute bit of extra effort by the fact of it being a hydraulic release system.


And you need to do the same. I've worked on both 4th gen f-body transmission styles hands-on and have plenty of background in same. I've also used (in my cars) both mechanical and hydraulic thirdgen clutch release systems. and I've converted my 1995 T56 to mechanical clutch release. Accuse someone else of not being familiar with T56 clutch release systems, but not me. Thanks.


Well you're at a crossroads. The adapter plate (McLeod) plus T5 bell + LS1 T56 are going to put you further back. Even the T5 bell alone is deeper than the T56 bell (both f-body versions.)

LT1 parts work, and work well. Simplify and stick with that if you're not interested in playing with trans position, driveshaft, & tq. arm. You'll need an LT1 T56 intput, front adapter plate (front of case piece) bellhousing and all related clutch parts. And you'll need to re-set endplay in the T56 with those new parts, so don't forget shims to accomplish that task.

Pick one.

You could verify airgap between the LS1 throwout bearing and the T5 clutch when using an LS1 bellhousing and shim things from there and have a machinist cut some of the input down (verifying adequate spline left on the input) but that's not my favourite solution because of the use of a TO brg, so skip that, no matter what Weir says. (their bell is yet another option.)

-Matthew

 

.Well you're at a crossroads. The adapter plate (McLeod) plus T5 bell + LS1 T56 are going to put you further back. Even the T5 bell alone is deeper than the T56 bell (both f-body versions.)


You can use all the LT1 stuff and keep the trans in the stock position as well as the driveshaft and torque arm, however there are so many other issues I just said screw it and did the driveshaft and torque arm thing because everything else is easier and I don't care what anybody else says I hate that pull clutch. I have done all three ways to the swap, that's why I said it's a no brainer.