Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

Rear end grease behind backing plate, grinding noise.

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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 11:59 AM
  #1  
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From: San Diego
Car: 1994 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Rear end grease behind backing plate, grinding noise.

I was removing my brakes this morning when I found I have black rear end grease leaking behind the backing plate going into the rear. And the grinding noise is coming from there as well I believe. So I need a repair bearing ( anyone know a ball park price?) slide hammer, bearing puller attachment ( does Autozone rent those out? and what do they attach to, a ratchet?) a rubber mallot to drive the 'axle saver' in? Will I need new grease too?

I got all that from a search, but what is the official name of the part I need at Autozone and does it come with that seal?

Thanks guys!!

-Kevin
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 01:55 PM
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ede
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long piece of black iron pipe works pretty good instead of a slide hammer. yeah you'll need new oil, it'd be foolish to reuse it.
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 03:46 PM
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Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
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Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Check the axel. If it's grooved, you need an off-set bearing. I purchased mine from CarQuest p/n BGS RP 5707. I can't recall if they came with seals or not. I banged the bearings in with a 2x4 and a four-pound hammer.

JamesC
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 01:30 PM
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Car: 1994 Trans Am
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Originally posted by ede
long piece of black iron pipe works pretty good instead of a slide hammer. yeah you'll need new oil, it'd be foolish to reuse it.
Have a link to a pic of one? How do you get it out with one?
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 02:30 PM
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Have a link to a pic of one?
What, a pic of a piece of pipe? Seriously?

Go to Home Depot or something, look in the plumbing section. Even better than a pic.

You stick it through the rear after both axles are out, and catch it on the back of the bearing on the opposite side, and knock the bearing out with a hammer. Takes like 2 seconds a side if you stop to pop a cold one halfway through each side.

About a 6' piece of ¾" pipe is perfect.

Personally I prefer galvanized steel over black iron; I guess that makes me a pipe snob.

You need something like a large flat-nose punch or drift or VERY DULL cold chisel, to put the new bearing in (and of course a hammer.... gotta have a hammer for ANY serious car work); and a flat block of wood to lay up against the seal, for that. One mighty whack on the wood with the hammer. DO NOT try to tap the seal in around the edge, it will leak every time.
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 02:01 PM
  #6  
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From: San Diego
Car: 1994 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Okay take the axles out, remove the posi or rear end; right?, slide in the 6ft pipe have it hit the inside of edge of the opposite side bearing and whack it with a hammer? That makes sense now.

But what if one bearing is still good? Wont the pipe, as you're banging on the opposite side, destroy the bearing the pipe is resting on?
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 07:08 PM
  #7  
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hey all! ok im lost hear!! if he is gonna replace the bearings in the pumpkin [Differential] why do u need to pull the axcel's cant you replace the rear pinion bearing just by takin the diffenential cover off?

im going to be doing the front pinion seal and bearing somtime real soon!! and im educating my self by readnig any thing related !! Thanks!
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 07:54 PM
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ede
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Originally posted by gottfuel
hey all! ok im lost hear!! if he is gonna replace the bearings in the pumpkin [Differential] why do u need to pull the axcel's cant you replace the rear pinion bearing just by takin the diffenential cover off?

im going to be doing the front pinion seal and bearing somtime real soon!! and im educating my self by readnig any thing related !! Thanks!
if you're replacing carrier bearings you need to remove the carrier and to do that you need to remove the axles. to remove the pinion you need to remove the carrier.
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