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Plastic pin holding in ujoint on 4th gen driveshaft?

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Old 02-05-2006, 07:56 PM
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Plastic pin holding in ujoint on 4th gen driveshaft?

I picked up a 4th gen aluminum driveshaft, am I correct when I think that there is a plastic pin holding in the ujoint? How exactly do you get it out - since I assume driving it out is a bad idea?

And does the new ujoint typically come with a new plastic pin or does it use a different system?

Picture here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2..._tk/ujoint.jpg

Last edited by Trevor K; 02-05-2006 at 08:00 PM.
Old 02-05-2006, 08:23 PM
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Car: 1928 dodge coupe, 64 1/2 mustang
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Axle/Gears: 9" 3.00, 9" 3.25
it is a plastic type clip that you have to heat up and it will come out with shaft being alum. I dont know if this is how you get it out on steel shafts you just heat up till it quits coming out then drive it out as normal hope this helps
Old 02-06-2006, 04:54 AM
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I never worked on a 4th gen shaft but I'm guessing its the same as the late 70's, 80's and 90's shafts.

From the factory the U joint is put in the shaft, and a hole is drilled in the part of shaft where U joint fits, melted plastic gets squirted in through those holes and when it dries it forms a "seal" around the joint.

I have always done like 91drag. Use a propane plumbers torch and heat the U joint bearing caps, and the end of shaft. Be sure to wear safty glasses and stand off to the side.

Once it starts to get hot enough plastic "worms" will start to kind of snake thier way out of the little holes in the shaft end. Some times right as all the plastic comes out the plastic and grease in joint will pop and if it does it will pop hot glowing red plastic out. That's why I said stand to the side and wear glasses.

When you buy your new replacement joint it will come with 2 metal haft circle clips.

You carefully take the bearing caps off joint, pust jont cross in shaft, put on cap on from the outside in, getting it on the cross with out harming the little bearings. Hold cap in place and turn shaft over so that cap is on the floor or work bench. Now put your other cap on. Place a socket on that cap (make sure socket is small enough to fit through the place where joint goes) and hit socket with a hammer, turn shaft over and hit that cap just like the other one, turn over and do again, turn and do again. Till you get caps all the way on.

Now the 2 little metal clips will go on the inside. Right next to the seal on the joint and the inside of hole in shaft where joint fits.

Hold clip in place and push on as much as you can with fingers, then tap clip with hammer. You will need a punch or screw driver to get clip all the way on. Put screw driver on clip and tap with hammer till its fully seated.
Old 02-07-2006, 11:41 AM
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So there is no new piece of plastic to put in afterwards, it's basically a 1 time thing done by the factory?

As well, do I have to worry about overheating the metal (Is the piece I'm heating aluminum as well?)?
Old 02-07-2006, 11:56 AM
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dont get too much heat too quick. the cap will blow off with a loud bang! we had a tech here do that and it went through out sheet metal celing in the shop area...15 ft tall
Old 02-07-2006, 12:03 PM
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
No theres no replacement plastic to go back in. GM had to inject it into the shaft as a soft goo, then it ran around a groove cut inside the shaft and hardened

The only replacement you can do is the inside metal clips. Which IMO thats better anyway. Makes it alot easier to change the U joint after the 1st time
Old 02-07-2006, 02:31 PM
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Originally posted by 88outlawGTA
dont get too much heat too quick. the cap will blow off with a loud bang! we had a tech here do that and it went through out sheet metal celing in the shop area...15 ft tall
Thats how I did it. Pointed it toward an open area, stood back, and let the cap remove itself. Also quite entertaining.
Old 02-07-2006, 02:51 PM
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yes it is boss /shop manager didn't think so tho haha
Old 02-08-2006, 08:48 AM
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I have a little butane torch that claims a maximum temperature of 400C (752F), would that be enough to get the caps off or will I need a real sized torch?

And this won't damage/warp the metal?
Old 02-08-2006, 09:06 AM
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that is all it takes. just want to warm it enough to melt the plastic. don't expect a ton of plastic to come out. and press out the old ujoint
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