Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

700r4 converter lockup painless or b&m

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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 03:23 PM
  #1  
project86ta's Avatar
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From: Houston
Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 carb
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: Not Sure
700r4 converter lockup painless or b&m

Has anyone installed a painless or b&m or jet Torque Converter Lockup Kit and what kind of results have you had.... also somebody mentioned that I should install a corvette servo to prolong transmission life I found some on summit should I do a second or fourth gear servo??
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 10:21 PM
  #2  
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Car: 1982 Camaro z28
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here is an idea you can make your own,
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 09:58 AM
  #3  
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From: Houston
Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 carb
Transmission: 700 R4
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thanks for the great article!! have done this before? and if so how is it working for you ..
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 10:19 AM
  #4  
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From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
I spent the $80 on the TCI kit for my 1992 carbed 350. The TCI kit is vacuum controlled. However, I see this article uses no vacuum. I haven't gotten to drive my car enough yet to really tell if the lockup is actually working, as it's still a "work in progress" - but the few times I did drive it I couldn't really tell if it locked up - and I can really notice it in my stock 1990 car.

I'm very interested as well - has anyone actually done this? Since there is no vacuum control like the commercial kits use, I guess this works solely off of pressure?

Also, how do any of these methods know what gear the tranny is in for locking? I'm assuming the stock ECM knows what gear the tranny is in, and determines whether to lock or not - I know my stock 1990 will lock in 3rd and 4th.

OK - maybe dumb questions - but I'm a tranny idiot
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 10:31 AM
  #5  
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From: Houston
Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 carb
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: Not Sure
guessing from what ive seen on other kits this would only replace the fourth gear pressure switch and so would only enter lock up based on that switch

the kit I was looking at getting is made by B&M part # BMM-70248 and it does not appear to have a vaccum switch to it.

Last edited by project86ta; Feb 12, 2006 at 10:45 AM.
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 10:58 AM
  #6  
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From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
BMM-70248 - Wow - $159! I do see that it doesn't use vacuum though - it uses the first tool known to mankind, your finger! Looks like you control the lockup from inside the car.

Given this, couldn't you just leave the ECM connected to the tranny, and short the correct pins (A and F) on the ALDL with a switch? Would cost like $5 for the switch and wiring, produce the same result (lock up the TC with your finger), and save a ton o cash!

Tech Article - Lock Up Switch

Just remove the SES light from the dash so it's not a bother - given that it'll be on constantly since no other computer controlled stuff exists.

Would this work? Or would the ECM connected to the tranny still try to lock-up the TC even though it's not getting any usable signals from the rest of the computer-controlled goodies (like TPS, etc.)?
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 12:14 PM
  #7  
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From: Houston
Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 carb
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: Not Sure
Hmmm I don't know....... I'm not worried about the ecm it's going to be disconnected. I'm doing an engine swap and getting rid of the AIR pump q-jet and egr so the ecm is going to be worthless anyway. The only thing I liked about the b&m kit is that once you set it for a specific mph you don't have to worry about it anymore. I was thinking a corvette servo and this kit for my 700r4 since I was ditching the ecm. I don't think I would need lock up untill prob 45 mph or so.
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 12:55 PM
  #8  
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From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
OK - you mentioned something I didn't know with the $159 B&M kit - setting it for a specific RPM. I didn't look that closely before at the pic of the B&M kit. So I took a closer look at the pic - looks pretty cool - from the photo I'm guessing it works like this:

Connector replaces the stock connector to the tranny.

Seems like Summits pic does not show the pressure switch, but the B&M pic does, so you still have to open the tranny and install a new pressure switch inside.

Has a pot switch on the controller to set the lockup RPM as you mentioned.

Also has a push button to manually lock or unlock the converter at any time you want.

So then I'm assuming that:

The little controller goes inside car (at your fingertips), and you set this RPM for the lockup.

Having the controller at your fingertips, you can change the RPM on the fly, ie whenever you like as your driving. I know in my 1990 stocker, my TC locks and unlocks on a certain hill on the way to work everyday. It can't make up it's mind on this one hill. I always just change into D instead of OD - but this would solve that kinda problem in my carbed 1992 as I could just adjust the pot switch (or push the button) as I approached that hill.
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 12:56 PM
  #9  
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Car: 1982 Camaro z28
Engine: 5.3
Transmission: TKX
Axle/Gears: 10 BOLT
ok well i didn't do that EXACT article but i did something along those lines but its the same concept and it worked perfectly. heres some links. This locks up whenever your foot is not on the brake.

http://www.700r4.com/tech/tcc/intern...ll/700r4.shtml

http://www.700r4.com/tech/tcc/relay_.../diagram.shtml
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 01:29 PM
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
I would get a vacuum switch to control the TCC, it protects it from abuse. The best TCC vacuum switch IMO comes from an early-mid 80s van. They keep the converter locked for a longer period of time than a switch from a truck would. More weight to pull=less vacuum=need to keep the switch closed more. The switch gets connected to ported vacuum through a delay valve and a TVS. When you go part throttle, vacuum above 3 in/hg the converter will lock. Release the gas to slow down and the converter will unlock, now back onto the gas the delay valve gives a 3 second delay or so and it relocks, now GO near WOT, the converter clutch unlocks due to low vacuum. The TVS won't let the converter lock until the engine reaches about 110-120*F.
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 01:44 PM
  #11  
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From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
project86ta -

Well, to answer the original question:

The Painless kit is identical to the TCI kit I used - it's vacuum controlled, but the Painless is $50 more than the TCI kit.

After looking more closely, I kinda like the B&M kit - if your gonna spend $130 or $160, the B&M kit looks pretty cool for the extra $30 - and no worry about the vacuum thing.

In mine, with my cam I had trouble getting enough vacuum for my brakes - and that's why I don't think my TCI lockup is working - I think maybe it's not getting enough vacuum to actually throw the switch. The B&M kit resolves this issue since it doesn't use any vacuum, but an electrical tach reading instead.

With me - it was all worthless anyways, as my tranny turns out to be toast. When I get the rebuild done, I think I'll just skip the expense and worry of it all, and install a toggle to manually lock mine up - As I understand, it's only major advantage is increased mileage anyway - and I'm too tight to spend the $160 right now on the cool looking B&M kit!
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 02:14 PM
  #12  
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From: Houston
Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 carb
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: Not Sure
Thanks for all the posts guys..... looks like I'll be going with the B&M kit from summit..... I know it's a little expensive but what the hell I'm young and single...... at least if you put your money in a car she can't leave you and take half your ****
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 04:42 PM
  #13  
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From: Houston
Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 carb
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Axle/Gears: Not Sure
just something I pulled off another board

smeagol12-25-2001, 10:01 AM
Nope, can't do.

Best bet is the B&M kit, for non mechanical speedos. Just has s slide bar to set lockup at a certain MPH. Good for playing at the track, very easy to use.

If you are cheap, use a switch putting the TC lockup to ground, and/or use a hobbs switch that grounds it under boost for track runs :wink:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

rockvillespeed12-30-2001, 05:46 PM
fyi, the vacuum only units (tci, painless, et al) SUCK!!!! i was near suicidal with one in my v8 s10 - i would use a toggle switch any day of the week over that kit. i switched to the speed sensitive b&m, and was fairly happy with it, tho i rigged in a manual control 3 pole switch as well. just stay away fromt eh vacuum only's.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 04:41 PM
  #14  
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From: Charleston SC
Car: '88 GTA
Engine: 383 Edelbrock TPI
Transmission: Mad Dog 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: just something I pulled off another board

Is there any way to re-wire it into the stock computer/harness. ive switched out the 305 manual for the 350 auto. the tranny shifts fine but doesnt lock up, can I get a new lock up connecter and wire it to the car like the factory had?
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Old Jun 7, 2008 | 03:43 PM
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From: Oslo, Norway
Engine: '85 Monte SS L69 305
Transmission: TH 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: just something I pulled off another board

You're being a little unclear about what you have and what your goals are. You might also have been better off starting your own thread specific to your needs.
Factory wiring: A pink/black wire (ign) goes to an extra brake switch. A purple wire comes out of the switch and goes to the TCC solenoid in the tranny. A tan/black wire comes out from the TCC and goes to the ECM (and also to terminal F in the ALDL connector). A dark green/white wire comes from the ECM and goes to the 4th gear switch in the tranny, where it's grounded when in 4th.
If you want lockup w/o the ECM you can connect the tan/black and the dark green/white to a vacuum switch or a throttle position switch (you can fab yor own). You can also connect a switch from the tan/black wire and to ground to enable manual lockup in other gears than 4th.
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Old Jun 7, 2008 | 06:35 PM
  #16  
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From: Charleston SC
Car: '88 GTA
Engine: 383 Edelbrock TPI
Transmission: Mad Dog 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: just something I pulled off another board

what I mean is that I have a factory non-tcc vehicle that now has an automatic.I would like to figure out a way to buy a replacement connector and wire it into the car the same way GM wires it into the tcc equipped cars. They use the same ECM and components but I may just have to find someone willing to let me look at theirs.

I posted here to save space.*
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 05:22 AM
  #17  
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From: Oslo, Norway
Engine: '85 Monte SS L69 305
Transmission: TH 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: just something I pulled off another board

Yes, but the question is do you keep the ECM and just swap the PROM & wiring? Neither have you stated what car you have.
Do you have that extra brake switch on your pedals?
You can pull a complete ECM wiring loom out of a junk-yard car.

Hehe, you might have saved one thread of a "million" but reduced your own chances of getting replies since the heading doesn't really reflect your problem.
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