i was wondering if anyone has looked into swapping a 8.5 along with a ladder bar suspension? how is a ladder suspension on the street? maybe a cheap alternative?

has nobody done this? i just thought that a used 8.5 would be very cheap (under a 100) and a ladder or 4-link could be had for 300 out of jegs/summit. i dont know, maybe 300 for all of the welding for the rear and install to adapt to the frame? maybe in this case a 12 bolt out of a newer truck with discs is an option. any thoughts or input is welcomed.

If you're going through all that trouble to swap in a non third gen diff, why not just install a 9"?

I have pics of my ladder bars on my web site. I had to section the floor to get them to fit. A 4 link system would need most of the rear floor resectioned to the point where a back seat couldn't be used. I wouldn't recommend ladder bars for the street. They bang a lot going over bumps because of the way they're designed.

The key to a good diff swap is to find a diff that's just about the same width as the third gen. Most truck diffs are too wide. A truck 12 bolt is also not the same as a car 12 bolt.

I've often wished someone would make an actual 8.5 inch bolt in rear end housing for our cars.

Would up the durability in a major way and still keep the costs way below what buying a 9 inch or 12 bolt costs.

Buick guys have them routinely in the 9's/10's and keeping them alive. Some of these are still luxo optioned tanks too.

Weighing in more than our cars.

Would be a nice intermediate rear between stock and full on $$$$

Everything is out there and well sorted out as far as exactly what u need and at what point.

Not arguing which is stronger lol, it would just make a lot of peoples wallets less lite to do.

later
Jeremy

i was only looking at cost and traction effectiveness. a ladder setup should outperform a stock setup. seems a good used rear and gear swap plus fab/install could be had for 1000 or 1250 at the most. i realize the truck rear is different, how much longer? maybe enough to run zr1 wheels? would maybe come with disc brakes? or big drums? just an idea i am kicking around. i will do some research but am leaning toward this...... i will let yous know what i find to mathematicaly(spelling) work as to length and bolt pattern disc /drum. plus cost

if you can do the welding find a lincoln with disc and cut your brackets off and reweld them off most older cars have a 9" get an adj panhard, lca's, and a TA. Most of these rears 270 gears, but you can find gears anywhere. If to wide have cut it down and get axles of if close your can use the 4th gen wheels with out spacers . this is my plan as you can find these rears around here real cheap around 100 if you take out . that is what i payed for the one in my friends drag truck. another good thing about the 9" is if car is street\strip you could get two centersections and change in a hour or so before you go to the tracks. my

ohh, i see now someone has to throw the F-bomb in here...... was just trying to keep it all chevy i was even thinking of a 8.8 if the length is close and then have good gears and disc brakes if a later version. many possibilities.........

i was not the first to say 9" here so . you are wanting to stay gm so it would be almost as cheap if you to buy a moser 12 bolt and use the stock suspention. yes the 4 link is around 300+ frame rails 160+cross member 60+diagonal link 120+ welding if you can get for 300 great + redoing rear floor 250+ reinstalling interior . A friend who owns a chassis shop around here gets 3000 for doing all of it and thats for a friend and i got parts at his cost. that is why i am going with the way i am doing it.

what am i not seeing that the floor needs to be "redone" ?

you have to make room for the 4 link to move up and down and you have to put in a crossmember and frame rails to hold it together there is no frames on these cars that will hold a 4 link or ladder bar kit . even with the ladder bar kit some floor work will have to be done as steven 87 iroc said and his car has a ladder bar kit .
quote steven 87 iroc:I have pics of my ladder bars on my web site. I had to section the floor to get them to fit. A 4 link system would need most of the rear floor resectioned to the point where a back seat couldn't be used. I wouldn't recommend ladder bars for the street. They bang a lot going over bumps because of the way they're designed.

ok, now i understand. thanx for the enlightenment that may change my plans

was not tring to be an a$$ but i bought a kit and it is still in the floor of the car cause i dont want to cut the car up and want to runn in the street stock class at my track so now i have 1000 dollars worth of metal in my car