Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

Pedal Swap - Last Bolt

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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 03:58 PM
  #1  
RaGe's Avatar
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Car: 1990 Firebird Formula
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Pedal Swap - Auto to Manual (T56 swap)

I can not get a socket on the last bolt and I'm wondering what trick there may be to this?

The bolt I am refering to is not one of the 4 on the firewall, but the one by the brake switch.

Thanks!

Last edited by RaGe; Apr 28, 2006 at 05:38 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 04:31 PM
  #2  
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From: Columbus, In
Car: 87 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" ford 35 spline axles
have u lowered the steering column?
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 05:09 PM
  #3  
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Car: 1990 Firebird Formula
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Yes. Steering Column is dropped.
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 05:43 PM
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From: Columbus, In
Car: 87 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" ford 35 spline axles
If I remeber correctly, it took a swivel socket and a long extension.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 09:47 AM
  #5  
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Car: 1990 Firebird Formula
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Got it last night... just needed to be more forceful.

Thanks for the help!
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 09:52 AM
  #6  
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From: Columbus, In
Car: 87 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" ford 35 spline axles
It can be a pain in the a** laying upside down under the dash..lol
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 10:04 AM
  #7  
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Originally Posted by likeenz24
It can be a pain in the a** laying upside down under the dash..lol
Taking the seat out helps a ton. I was laying on my back with my feet on the back seat when I did my pedal swap.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 10:06 AM
  #8  
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From: Columbus, In
Car: 87 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" ford 35 spline axles
wish I would have done that, but too late now its already done..lol. Your way sounds alot more comfortable.....
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 10:15 AM
  #9  
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Car: 1990 Firebird Formula
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I've been lazy on this seat removal the whole time.. I think I'm going to remove it though to ease putting in the new setup.. Its only 4 bolts to remove the damn seat anyhow.
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 05:33 PM
  #10  
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Car: 1990 Firebird Formula
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Alright, I've got the old assembly out.. I've got the new one in and the bolts loosely in... There is a cable that runs across the firewall that is hooked to a small stud that is right in the way of where the bracket for the master cylinder goes... Whats the deal with this thing? Cut it off?

This swap pisses me off. I should have stayed with the damn 700r4.

Pic of said stud and cable that attaches to it included... the red circle is the stud that I want to cut out.. unless I've just got this thing lined up wrong?
Attached Thumbnails Pedal Swap -  Last Bolt-pict1127-small-.jpg  

Last edited by RaGe; Apr 28, 2006 at 05:37 PM.
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Old Apr 29, 2006 | 01:23 AM
  #11  
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Originally Posted by RaGe
Alright, I've got the old assembly out.. I've got the new one in and the bolts loosely in... There is a cable that runs across the firewall that is hooked to a small stud that is right in the way of where the bracket for the master cylinder goes... Whats the deal with this thing? Cut it off?

This swap pisses me off. I should have stayed with the damn 700r4.

Pic of said stud and cable that attaches to it included... the red circle is the stud that I want to cut out.. unless I've just got this thing lined up wrong?
Doing the pedals is the most annoying part of the swap. Everything else is pretty straight forward assuming you have all the parts.

As for your question: the bracket ends up going on just a hair above the stud. I left mine in place. No idea what the cable is for.
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Old Apr 29, 2006 | 06:52 AM
  #12  
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Car: 1990 Firebird Formula
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
THANK YOU!!!

Last edited by RaGe; Apr 29, 2006 at 06:56 AM.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 09:22 AM
  #13  
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From: PA
Car: 86 Trans AM
Engine: LS1 (not stock...)
Transmission: Built T56
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt w/ 3.73
Not sure if it still matters to you... but that cable and stud are for the shifter mechnism lock. You know...how you arent able to push in your auto shifter button unless the key is on? That cable is what gets locked onto by the column lock, preventing you from pushing in the cable. I removed mine...one less thing hanging out in the car that dosent do jack.

Justin
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 10:36 AM
  #14  
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Car: 1990 Firebird Formula
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Thanks, I was getting ready to grab a bolt cutter and cut that damn stud.

Took a break from the pedal swap and returned to it this weekend..still pisses me off.

I drilled a few holes but the u-bolt didn't clear - so now I've got **** drilled holes too..

To do this over again I would have sold the T56 and bought a 700 from pro-built.. as much as I want 6 gears - this pedal swap is not worth it.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 01:29 PM
  #15  
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From: PA
Car: 86 Trans AM
Engine: LS1 (not stock...)
Transmission: Built T56
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt w/ 3.73
Darn that stinks... I have my column out, and most of my under dash stuff out...so my pedals fell right in. When you said you were having troubles with the u-bolt holes...did you mean the holes for the clutch master cyl? how did you line the holes up before drilling...did you use the mat stuff under the carpet, or did you bolt the pedals up first and use the holes in the bracket to make your holes?

Ive heard of a couple people using the pre cut holes int he mat to make their cut. Seemed to work on for them...but Im not a big fan of that method. Atleast for me...my carpet is obviously shifted, and those holes are nowhere near where my pedal bracket holes were... Dont give up man!!!! If you start to make a mess of things...take a breather, move more parts out of the way, and start over. I guess you can always take a piece of thick sheet metal and attach it over the "mess up holes". Secure it real good and make the piece big enough, and you have a fresh surface to make correct holes....

6 gears is way more fun than an auto. although..I had the chance to drive an LS1 with a 3800 stall and all I can say is Darn it was fun!

Justin
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 03:44 PM
  #16  
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Car: 1990 Firebird Formula
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I'm not going to give up now...to far into it.

I haven't gotten drill happy.. I can make the holes work I think.. the problem is that stud for that cable seems in the way and the mounting bracket doesn't sit flat against the firewall...so the holes I drilled using hte bracket as a template don't line up perfect.

I've got the u-bolt fitting now, I just need to cut that damn stud out of the way and get the bracket bolted down so I can drill the center hole with the holesaw.

worst case I'll end up using washers on the engine side of the holes are too big.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 01:40 PM
  #17  
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Car: 1990 Firebird Formula
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Finally finished the pedal/master cylinder install.. Ended up getting a friend out who was about half my size (literally) who did the drilling of the holes for me... He was able to do it while talking on the cell phone - so unless your a big guy I guess this swap isn't so bad.

I didn't end up using the holes in the pad on the firewall - I bolted in the pedal assembly, then drilled the 2 holes, then drilled a hole with a holesaw in the center of those two holes.. (1 5/8" holesaw)

Not nearly as bad as I bitched and made it sound like and it turned out pretty good in the end.

Oh and I cut that stupid stud out of there from the picture above..made it much easier to drill the holes and line everything up!
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 09:04 AM
  #18  
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From: PA
Car: 86 Trans AM
Engine: LS1 (not stock...)
Transmission: Built T56
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt w/ 3.73
Cool man...congrats. I had everything bolted up to mine, but I wasnt happy with the angle that the master cylinder rod was poking at the master cylinder. Did you run into any issues with your master cylinder push rod being at a funky angle? It might be because Im using LS1 pedals and hydraulics... But just thought Ide ask because Im having a hard time deciding how to deal with it. Its holding me up! How long until you can drive yours??

Justin
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 11:18 AM
  #19  
RaGe's Avatar
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Car: 1990 Firebird Formula
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
with a little luck I'll be driving mine in 2-3 weeks.

My alignment seems pretty good - I basicly drilled the holes where the bracket endd up being while bolted up.. Then I hooked the master cylinder rod up to the clutch pedal (after drilling with the holesaw) and made sure it lined up and worked ok before bolting it in.
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