I just finished installing my TransGo reprogramming kit and now I have no reverse. All other gears seem fine; I only drove the car around the block.
Also, the fluid level seems to be almost non-existent even though I put in almost 5 qrt (5L) of Dexron III.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

D.

 

Sometimes the snap ring below the boost valve and lo-rev boost valve pops, and the valves fall into the trans pan. If this happened, you could drop the pan, inspect and reassemble.

 

This is precisely what happened to me, except I had no gears at all. It all just felt like neutral. I know that you don't want to hear this, but pull the pan off and check to see if all is still in order.

 

Yeah, I'm starting to believe it's the boost valve but I'm more worried about the fact that I can't get any ATF on my dipstick.
When the engine is off the ATF level is just above the upper mark for Cold, when running sometimes is right at the upper cold mark or nothing at all.
Has anyone had this kind of symptom after a "dropped" boost valve?

 

did you come close to totally empting all the fluid out, im not familiar with that kit and what you have to do to install it

 

To tell you the truth, I followed the directions for filling the tranny back up just like in the video, and I OVERFILLED! Damn transgo. I guess it all made it's way down in there because it's reading fine now.

I think I ended up putting in 5 qt total.

 

The car had been on jack-stands for over a week with the pan off, I guess all fluid drained out before I was ready to start putting it all back.
I'll check it again tonight but it kinda freaks me out that I had to run it without fluid in the pan (or at least it looked that way) even though I kept adding fluid.
Good thing I've got a drain plug now.

 

OK, I've got my reverse back, the boost valve came off, now the snap ring is in the right location/groove but the saga continues.
1. the fluid level is not right, I keep adding more fluid but it wont show on the dip stick, sometimes I get a reading on the upper cold mark sometimes nothing at all, this is weird
2. drove the car around the block and noticed a "metallic" friction sound at around 23-2500 RPM, this sound is still there even with the tranny in P, I don't know what happens if I rev it up, too scared to try (my engine and tranny were fine prior to installing the TransGo kit)
3. the tranny doesn't seem to shift into 2nd anymore, I put it in OD (and later in all other gears) and it revs up to 23-2500, I get the metallic sound, no gear change, at that point the speed is about 30 mph
I haven't tried going faster as I'm afraid I'll ruin the tranny.
This installation is becoming a pain in the rear side.
I followed the instructions to the letter, I don't understand what is going on, no fluid level, metallic sounds, no gears, what the .......

Anyway, please share your ideas with me because at this point I'm running out of options, I'm getting frustrated and I don't really want to take it to a transmission place.

Thanks.

 

i dont mean to make you sound stupid, but when you add it, you know that it is not draining out, just to clairfy that. so you didnt take any parts out that are around the clutch packs, you just messed with the valve body area. Because mine is totally empy i heard it will take around 12 quarts. sort of what camaronewbie told me: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...uid-level.html

but then again you should have some fluid left where the clutches are. how many have u put in total now

 

Lol, yeah, I should've clarified that, no, the fluid stays in the tranny it's not draining out.
I just spoke with Dana from Pro Built and he recommended I go by what the dipstick says not what the Haynes book says.
I'm gonna try that now, I only have 1L left though.

 

I have the same problem with mine, sorta. Reverse works on the lift, but won't pull the car. I called transgo, and they said that the aux valve body might not be tight, and it wasn't. havn't put the pan back on but I guess I'll check that boost valve while I'm there. Though, if the snap ring fell out i'd think the valve would be in the pan.heh.

-- Joe
-- Joe

 

The easiest way to put the snap ring back on is to get a wooden dowel (Home Depot) and cut it so pushes the piston up above the groove after you prop the other end against the floor; just push the snap ring up the bore until it seats right.
When I did mine the first time it was a pain, after doing it with the dowel it was a 5 seconds operation literally: put the ring in, push it in place with a screw driver, ring snaps into groove, make sure it's seated right, done.
My reverse is fine now, but still no fluid on the dipstick even though at this point I have about 6L of ATF in the tranny. I'll buy some more today and when I get home I'll just try it again.

 

I just pushed the center with a screw driver, and put the snap ring in with snap ring plyers. hrmm. I'm gonna refill it tonight and try it out.

I found a ton of metal shavings and bits in the pan that I'm a little concerned about.. weird..

-- Joe

 

That doesn't sound like good news. Have you replaced the filter? You can "open" the old filter and see what else is in there.
If it's red the clutches are failing, if it silver-ish there is something else (can't remember what), google it for more info.
Are you sure your snap ring is in the upper groove, almost 1 inch up?
There is a lip in the bore and a groove above the lip about 1/2".

 

Hrmm.. I'm fairly sure the snap ring is in the same spot. I'll double check tonight.

Everythings red from the tranny fluid. the bits are metallic though. It could also be from the parking pal. When we were testing it on the lift, I failed to acknowledge the speedo was at 50 when I stuffed it into park. That made a neat noise.

-- Joe

 

Hahaha.. friggin parking pawl... dont trying using park to stop a rolling car either, useless, just fun noises


i think i ended up with like 8 or 9 quarts after my install.. my car sat up for about a week too and never stopped draining

 

I just got 12L of Dexron III, just in case. Mine never stopped draining either, made a mess on the garage floor.

 

I touched that valve with a screwdriver and it landed on my head.

I think I put it in wrong, and my instructions are oil soaked. Gotta find a diagram online. ugg.

tech tip: when spraying the valve body down with brake cleaner, DO NOT immediately look up. a drop of break cleaner in the eyeball will make you feel like your face is on fire. 3 hours later, my eye still hurts.

-- Joe

 

Heres my instructions.

part # 1, 2 are obvious.

Part #3 on mine has the hole in the dead center. It has a small end, and a big end. Which end goes UP twords the transmission?

Part #4 looks a little different on mine too. It has a land on one end. Which way does it go into part #3 ? I'm assuming the land goes UP twords the transmission, and it slides into the wider end of part #3. Is this correct?

-- Joe

 

if part 3 has a hole in the middle and 2 equal sized openins on either side and otherwise identical sides, gonna hafta say it probably wont matter...
if it has that ridge like in the picture that should be fair indiction which way is up

that thing was a pain in the nuts to get in just because its hard to make it go all the way down into the bore in the trannny, its that end peice doesnt like to go in perfectly straight so you gotta sit there prodding at it for awhile until you feel it go in all the way

 

Part 3 has a hole in the dead center. Two ridges/lands. One end has a small diameter opening, the other has a large diameter opening.

Thats why I'm confused.

-- Joe

 

does part #2 fit into both sides of part #3?? sorry thats all i got, no guru here this valve body stuff is scary :P

 

The long cylindric portion (not the Big Landing) of part 4 has to go INTO part 3 and the cylinder will have to come out at the bottom of part 3 (where the hole is). Part 2 (flat end) will push the cylinder up when it protrudes through part 3.
I hope this helps.

Back to my issues now.
The TV cable is a pain to adjust.
I follow the instructions: hook it up, push D clip, push back in, rotate throttle to pull out cable, well, my stupid cable seems to be too short, when I rotate the throttle the slider comes out of its housing.
Any ideas what is going on?

The ATF is another issue, so far I put in about 13L in and I'm still not sure if that's right. I thought I had a good reading 5L ago.

This thing never ends.
Drove the care around, the shifts are better, when they happen though, otherwise it sucks.
I think I'll have to take it to a dealer or tranny shop.

 

13L :O
how many quarts is that? i think max capacity with full converter is like 12 quarts?

reading that dipstick is a pain but you gotta get it good and hot with a nice long drive before its going to give you realistic information

if you added 13L after just doin the valve body theres very good chance your really overfull

 

I think he meant 13 pints. 13 liters is a hair more than 13 quarts, and way too much.

-- Joe

 

Nope, that's 3x4L bottles, the 3rd one is not totally empty though, and 2x1L bottle.
Here's the sequence re. how the fill happened:
1. checked fluid with car off just to make sure there was something in, at this point the tranny had about 5-6L in.
2. started the car, checked fluid - not good.
3. added fluid
4. drove the car around the block
5. checked fluid - looking good
6. got excited (bad idea)
7. started tweaking the TV cable (another bad idea)
8. burned fingers/hands while adjusting TV cable
9. no matter what I do, the slider comes all the way out of its housing when at WOT
10. hooked up TV the best I could
11. took that car out for a drive - shift points are a mess (no surprise here) at one point the engine red-lined (almost) without shifting
12. got to traffic light, smoke coming out in the rear, pulled over, ATF burning from somewhere
13. let the engine cool off a little drove home at 20Km/h
14. checked for leaks, checked level - no reading
15. added more fluid (dripped fluid on valve cover - more smoke) - good reading
16. turned off car, went to bed, planned for trip to tranny shop

Sorry for the long post.

Moderator(s), can you change the name of the thread, I misspelled TransGo?

 

I think the mystery around why I had to put so much ATF has been solved. Coming home today I started following this leak mark on the road from one of the lights I was at last night and guess where it stops, in my driveway.
the mark is about 1 mile long and about 2 inches wide that's for areas where I was doing around 20Km/h, where I slowed down it was reduces to drops here and there.
I have no idea what is going on, this may be explain why I get smoky ATF while driving and no drops while parked.
This thing is driving me nuts.

 

I can't get that boost valve in now that the tranny is in the car. wtf.. I spent an hour trying got pissed and went home..

whats the trick?

-- Joe

 

im gonna take a guess and say its blowing out seals cos its way overfull :P
it happens

the trick to the boost valve is to just keep bouncing it in and out of the hole ..... yeah i know
once it gos in hopefully you will realize it and keep the pressure on ;0

 

Talked to a tranny shop this morning and the owner told me it might be the seal but he needs to see it. He's afraid that the tranny is gone now and it might cost me $17-1800CAD, ouch.

Anesthes, follow dr1's trick and my trick with the dowel (see post above) and it will go in, stay in and it will be very easy for you to seat the snap ring without too much hassle.
Also make sure you have the parts in the right order and orientation, if they get jammed because one part is upside down you will never be able to push the valve all the way in.

 

The car is on the road again.
The shifts are GREAT.
Here's what happened after my last post:

I jacked up the car and noticed my 2-4 servo cover was out half way, the retaining ring was out too.
After closer inspection I noticed the servo piston was tilted and jammed into the bore. Three hours of continuous coursing the piston was still in. Eventually I had to take the car to Mister Transmission, $500 CAD later the car is on the road and I'm loving it.
According to the shop, the corrosion build up in the retaining ring groove prevented the ring to seat properly and allowed it to come out which in turn let the cover come out allowing the servo assembly to move and get jam in the bore.
The car chirps the tires in second gear and this is with a weak 305, yeah baby, the shifts are smooth at part throttle and just right at WOT.
There is a actually a cover installation/removal tool J-29714 out there that if used would've prevented this kind of thing. Personally I think the fact that I wasn't able to put the cover in easily (plus the corrosion in the groove) was the source of my problems.
I hope my experience helps other people.
Here's a link to a very good document explaining removal and installation of various parts on a 4L60-E which is very similar to a TH700R4.
http://fsunw3.ferris.edu/~millerm/4L60-E%20Overhaul.doc