My car was original an auto, I have been running a t-56 for a while and decided to sell it and go with a 5-speed. After installing the t-5 I can't get the clutch to disengage. I pulled it all apart to check things out. The clutch disc it keeping contact at the very bottom. I am using a t-56 slave set up could that be the problem, I am leaning toward bad a pressure plate, or a bent clutch fork. Has anyone had this or a similiar problem need info. Maybe is the t-56 slave shorter and not pushing the pressure plate in far enough???? Any help is appreciated......

 

I am running a t56 slave set up on my t-5 ,with no problems. Is the clutch you are using new. What about the history on the t-5 is it any good . What do you mean by clutch plate is in contact with bottom
I not sure what you mean the slave is not pushing in far enough. That would mean that you cant get the clutch to engage. Push in clutch and wount go in gear. That could be the throwout bearing is in backwards .If this is not your broblem forget I said it.
If the throwout bearing moves freely on the imputshaft and the rest of your parts are correct .I would lean torwd the shiftfork or pressure plate.

 

I am thinkin the pressure plate. Trans has been gone through, the clutch kit is new, the entire clutch disc isn't keeping contact when I push the clutch, it is only the very inner ( bottom ) of the clutch disc. It is a Hays clutch but there is always the possibility of getting a bad one.

 

Your clutch works enough for you to get the car in gear ,but just keeps slipping. Only engaging on the outer part of the clutch disc on the presure plate side or fly side. It also sounds like a warpet flywheel did you have it turned (cut). If your fly wheel checks out, try and call Hays and see If you can get a thickness on the disk ,and mesure in a few spots . I do not know how you would check the presure plate surface .If you get jamed up let me know I (think) I have a spare clutch kicking around with low miles, cover shipping and its yours.PM me
By the way ,why did you ditch the t56 I want to go that route .

 

If it won't release enough to let you put the trans into or out of gear then you might just need to adjust the clutch fork pivot ball. Also make sure that the slave cyl is bled well so you get full stroke out of it.

 

I would like to know why also. Im still debating whether I should go with the TKO600 or the T56.

 

I got rid of the t-56 because I am not going to race my car anymore. I was originally going to go back auto, but shiftin gears is alot of fun.

 

since when is the T-56 a race transmission anyway?

 

Drag racing or road racing?

 

Since when did this become a debate on the use of a transmission???? I have now changed everything that I could possibly think to be wrong, clutch master, slave, another clutch kit, clutch fork. ASnd, still the same result I push the clutch and won't go in gear, I start the car in gear and the wheels spin I am at my witts end any help is appreciated.

 

Ummm... I was just asking since Im still on the fence about which transmission I will get. I will be purchasing one of them when my local speed shop has its sale.

Next post....

 

Hey...

I looked all over the place and confirmed that the master cylinder AND slave cylinder bore is 1 inch for both the T5 and the T56. The travel should not be a problem.

I assume that you switched to a T5 flywheel when you removed the T56. Has this flywheel been turned? How many times? I know that a buddy of mine had clutch disengagement problems when after he turned his flywheel a second time. A brand new flywheel cured his problem. The throw-out bearing had to travel a lil bit before it made contact with the pressure plate fingers. The remaining travel wasnt enough to fully release the clutch. When you turn the flywheel, you make the flywheel thinner and move the pressure plate fingers closer to the engine, increasing the gap between the throw-out bearing and the pressure plate.

Is the clutch fork bent? Is it cracked? You are using the T5 fork, correct? (I know... DUMB QUESTION!!!)

Or like you said earlier, the pressure plate COULD be bad. Maybe the fingers are bent?

Try pushing the slave end of the clutch fork all the way in towards the slave. Then move the the fork back and forth and see how much "slack" you have. I dont know if there is a spec, but it shouldnt be a whole lot of movement there.

I hopes this helps.

 

I have tried 2 different clutch kits I have also put in a new clutch fork, the flywheel was turned .025 but I but a .050 shim behind the flywheel to make up the difference. I will try and see if the flywheel is it I can find one somewhere. Thanx for the help, I am still very confused.

 

Are you getting full travel at the slave? Does your pedal feel mushy at all?

 

Damn, maybe my post was invisible lol I'll bet a buck that the pivot ball needs to be adjusted. This is the only adjustment avail for the hyd clutch systems. It uses a 3/8" hex I believe, a ball end hex makes it a lot easier. Don't spend any more hard earned money before you try this...it is free and I'm sure it's your problem. Btw, you'll want to turn it clockwise to get more release.

 

Hmmm... I didnt know it was adjustable. I didnt notice it when I had my T5 out. I guess you learn something new everyday!

 

i know a guy that had this same exact promblem he was at it for awhile same symptoms and everything it turned out that it was just that the clutch was in backwards and that's it. We laughed about it for awhile he went out and bought a new hydrylic setup and evrything.

 

NO it wasn't invisible I sent you a pm. I have checked the pivot ball, it is in as far as it will go. I made sure the clutch was in right befor I put it in. I am really not sure I have not checked the flywheel yet. I am going to try making a longer rod for the slave tonight and see if it works. I got lied to about the trans., probably about the flywheel to....

 

how about ur slave cylinder cause mine was made of plastic and broke i ended up getting the alumium one and had no promblems.

 

Ok so the longer rod in the slave didn't work. Again the trans is on the floor tomorrow the trans is going to get looked at again, don't think there is anyway it could be the problem. I am goin to take the flywheel to get checked. I read tonight that the slave should have around an inch of travel and mine does. The clutch was all installed right. This is just crazy, I have never had anything give me this much trouble. Also there is no adjustment on the stock pivot ball, it has to be turned all the way in. I did find in JEGS an adjustable one for $9.99 so I am going to order on just because. I will let you'll know when I find out more. Thanx for all the help. Steve......

 

I'm thinking you need to put the hydraulics back like they came, and leave them alone.

Then look at the REAL problem, which is how the throwout is assembled to the fork.

 

The throw out bearing is not the problem, seeing how it only goes 1 way and this is not the first stick car I have had.

 

Ummmm.....

Did you look at the pic, which clearly shows the 2 ways that the TOB can be put on... one right, and one wrong?And that matters .... how? I've known people that have screwed up every single car they've had, the exact same way; just because you've had one before doesn't somehow automatically mean that whatever you're doing is right.

Put the hydraulics back like they belong, including putting the rod back to the right length. All of that is a waste of time, as you've already discovered. Same for the pivot ball; it just screws in until it's tight, and that's that. The hydraulic system's self-adjusting feature will make up for any variation in any of that, within reason, so none of that can be the problem.

Then go directly to the problem. Check the TOB. Look at the pics: note how in the "wrong" pic, the fork is held back away from the active surface of the TOB by the little spring thing, meaning that if you install it wrong that way, the first ¾ or so of the total available fork travel, will be taken up in just moving the fork from the back side of the groove up to the front side where it can start doing something. That's why your clutch isn't working.

 

Ok if you just want to talk to people like they are stupid find somewhere else to do it. I asked for a little help not sarcasm. And hell yes the throwout bearing is in right so is the clutch disc and trans and flywheel. I have changed my clutches my friends and their friends I know how. And yes maybe you can put the throwout bearing in wrong but I can guarantee It isn't. If you want to be a sarcastic smart a** do it some where else. The more I think about it the more irritated I become. Like the guy who said since when did a t-56 become a race trans. Hell, when did a Honda Civic become a race car. My point being this was a post for a little info and help, not know it all sarcasm. If you have tried to help thank you. I f you are trying to make me look stupid and talk to me like a child find some other place to go.....

 

I don't really have to do that, now do I... it's already taken care of.

You're welcome!!!

(and oh by the way, my clutch works fine because my TOB is in right, so it's no skin off my nose if yours doesn't, feel free to figure it out yourself)

 

Assuming the TOB is in correctly...

I think the flywheel is too thin.

 

 

For the record, I'm not an expert, but just something I may be way off, isn't the clutch supposed to engage squarely? or at least mostly? so if it's disengaging everywhere but one place, that sounds like a problem.

 

OK the issue is resolved. I was bound to figure this thing out today. It was the Hydraulic set-up. Not sure just how it was working but the slave wasn't throwing what I needed. I tried the other nite putting a longer rod in the slave. I was on the right path just gave up to soon. I ended up doing some measuring on the pedal travel versus the slave movement. I came up with a 5 1/8 rod ( these slaves come with a 4 inch rod) Now the clutch is releasing and I have a better pedal than I have ever felt on a hydraulic set up. Thanx Guys for all the help. OWE AND THE T/O BEARING WAS IN RIGHT !!!

 

And why would you suddenly need a longer rod on the slave cylinder?


Lengthenning the rod by an inch would temperarily mask the real problem of the throw out bearing being installed wrong. You'll probably be back into it before too long.

 

I Think I did this tonight when replacing my Clutch.

Can I pull the fork out without removing the tranny ??? It looks like the ball stud can be removed from the out of a V8 bell housing,........ If the ball come out the fork should slide out. But this car is a V6 and it looks like the ball stud on the V6 is mounted from the "inside" of the Bell Housing.



Does anyone know if the V6 fork can be removed / reinstalled without Pulling the Tranny Again ??!?

 

I am pretty sure you will have to pull the tranny.