http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/700R4...spagenameZWDVW


Tell me what you guys think of this kit. Would this work just as well as one of the kits from summit that retail at around $100? I asked the guy for instructions and he sent me this picture:







Does this kit look like it works? Also it says at the top "hot lead from car", which wire would this be, specifically? Im a noob to wiring, but Im learning.

 

Looks like it'd work fine to me. As far as the "hot lead" goes, all you need to do is hook it up to any wire that's got juice when the ignition is on. You can turn your key on and use a test light to find an ignition hot. One of the wires in your console area should be hot with the ignition on. Probably one of the wires for the reverse lights should be, or the hatch release button wire, if you have a power hatch. Just splice into whichever wire ends up being the one you need. Just about everything in Summit is overpriced! If they don't start getting more realistic on their prices, I wouldn't be surprised if Ebay sellers end up running them outta business. I've saved LOTS of money buying from Ebay sellers instead of Summit and Jegs.

 

Thank you for the reply, makes me feel better. One other thing though. Once I find that hot lead, can I just run that wire out of the tranny pan? It wont leak will it? The wire I have is 12 gague.

 

That kit will work great, but you should route that hot lead through a brake switch so that way if you step on the brake, the circuit is interrupted and the TCC will release..

 

You mean it wouldnt just unlock upon deceleration? Even if it doesnt unlock until 3rd gear is it really that bad?

 

If you slam on the brakes it will not unlock quickly enough and you WILL stall. That is why it is important to route it through the brake switch.

 

Where might I find that at?

 

The brake switch is located where your brake pedal is. It's a plunger style switch that activates your brake lights when you push the pedal down. I'm not sure how that would work though since that switch only goes hot when you push down the brake pedal. The interrupt switch for your cruise control makes more sense to use probably. It's also located on the brake pedal. You might want to ask the seller if you even need to do this. I would think it would unlock the converter just like stock when you step on the brake anyway, but who knows for sure. As far as running the wire into the trans goes, if that bulkhead connector shown in the picture won't work, you can always route your hot lead through the four prong plug that the original lock-up harness runs though. Just splice the wire for the new switch on each end of the original hot wire that runs through that connector. Or you could even put it through the unused hole in that connector. It's a four wire connector, but the factory only uses three wires through it, so one of the sockets is empty.

 

Okay it's all making sense now.

One last thing. This is going to sound stupid I know but since I'm doing all of this I want to be positive. How exactly do I know if my trans is locking and unlocking properly? See, before all of this when it ran, I figured that the last shift (would have been a 4-5 shift had this transmission had 5 gears) was the lock, it just made sense to me that way so I never questioned it. Does the TC locking up feel like an extra gear shift? Again I just want to be absolutely certain.

 

Just so you know running the lockup on a switch is VERY hard on the converter. I did this for a few years before I converted my Monte to FI.

Don't even think about running the converter locked up at WOT, it'll work for about 10 shifts or so before you nuke the converter.

 

Yeah, an "extra shift" is exactly what the lockup feels like. To describe it even better, it feels like a really soft, mellow shift. You'll also see your tach drop several hundred rpms when it does lockup.

 

Figured, just checking.

 

what exactly does this do? sorry, but im new to this type of stuff.

 

Well, your ECM is responsible for locking up your transmission in 4th gear (essentially makes your tranny spin at the same exact rpm as the engine yeilding better mileage, lower rpm). When converting to carbureted from TPI, you take out a few sensors that govern the ECM locking up the converter.

In order to get the converter to lock up, then you need to install this switch kit (or similar). I was just posting to see if this extremely cheap kit works or not, but apparently it will be fine.

 

have you installed this kit yet? how does it work? Im thinking about getting one.

 

Not yet, but maybe on the weekend.

 

I just bought this kit as well. He said that you only have to remove the square connector on tranny and install his. so you dont have to run the wire through the gasket. let me know how yours turns out, I will do the same whenever it comes.

 

I did excactly what is in the picture on my 700R4. I didn't buy a kit, I just went to the dealer and bought the TH400 spade plug that is in the pic and a N.O. psi switch. Cost total was around 8-10 bucks.

I will be wiring it into the switch on the brake pedal from the old lock up circuit.

 

Wouldnt this be easier and cheaper?

http://www.geocities.com/crosley_az/lockup1.htm

I plan on doing this method.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...cc-lockup.html