I'm in the process of swapping from a th700 to a T56. Now I already know where the wires are supposed to go. My question is there a way to do it without hacking into the stock wiring harness? For example, when i removed my automatic shifter when was a big wire connector that plugged into the shifter that contanined at least six wires. Does anyone know if there is a pigtale to plug into the factory plug/harnes so I don't have to cut it up?

What are you guys doing to get your reverse lockout working? I see most people wire it into the brake switch. Has anyone done anything any different? Is there a way to get the switch to activate when the vehicle comes to a stop like the LT1s do?

What do you do with the old wire for the torque converter lockup?

Also for the pedal switches, when I removed the old brake pedal there were two switch. I assume one was for the brakes and the other was for the cruse control. When the manual pedal set should I put the brake light switch on the brake and the cruse control switch on the clutch? If thats the case, then why does the brake pedal have holes for two switches? In other words, I have two switches and three holes. Two holes for the brake and one for the clutch.

 

Yeah... took the solenoid out and replaced it with a freeze plug. 30mm I think it was but I could be wrong. Measure twice, buy once.

The only wires you "need" are the backup lights; which are dark blue and dark green.

The VSS is a whole separate matter of course. The details for that can very greatly.

The 2 switches on the brake pedal are brake lights, and cruise. THe one switch on the clutch is cruise. You need all 3. Just get them off of a junk car. I re-used all that stuff exactly as it came in my 83 car. so any 5- or 6-speed car from 83 up, should have the parts you need.

I would assume you would just not hook up the converter lockup wire. Maybe fold it back and put it into the wiring loom. Fortunately it doesn't way much, and doesn't require regular feeding or anything, so it's not a big deal.

 

That’s the thing. My car was a automatic before so it only had the two switches on the brake pedal. I assume that if I don't put a switch on the clutch pedal the cruse won't disengage when I push in the clutch. I could move the cruse switch over to the clutch pedal but then the cruse won't disengage when I press the brake. Am I missing something here?

 

Could be....

 

vbMike,

One of the switches on the brake pedal has a connector that has (on my 92) Gray and Brown. Clip the Brown wire and run the switch on the clutch pedal in series with this wire. Ex: Clip Brown wire (leave enough to splice into). Gray wire into the brake switch, Brown out of the brake switch to the clutch switch, out of the clutch switch back to the Brown wire in the harness. That way if you push the brake OR the clutch the cruise will turn off.

Hope this helps and doesn't confuse!

 

92z - Good idea. That makes sense.

Now I'm wondering if that is even necessary. If I put both switches on the brake pedal the clutch still has the neutral saftey switch. If I push in the clutch when the cruse is on and activate the neutal saftey switch will the computer know that the car is in neutral and turn the cruse off to prevent the motor for overreving. I know most automatic car will turn the cruse off if the tranny is shifted into neutral. I know I tried this on my car when it was still and auto but I can't remember the results.

 

The neutral safet switch doesn't "let the computer know" anything. All it does is to break the wire that goes from the Start contact of the ignition switch to the starter solenoid.

I'm not understanding why you are being so resistant to the simplest, most direct, fool-proof (me-proof ) solution to your situation. Which is, go to the junkyard, and get the switches (which incidentally are also vacuum valves, as well as electrical switches) off of a stick-shift car, probably doesn't even have to be one of THESE cars, and install them in yours. No cutting, splicing, clipping or any other form of hacking.

There's a reason why the factory used switches on both pedals. That reason applies to your car, the same as it did to stick shift cars coming off the production line that way. Without an understanding of what they do or why they're there or how they even work, it's probably wisest not to try to outsmart the factory.

 

I already have two switches for the brake. I only need one more, which isn't the problem. The problem is that my car was previously an automatic. Even if I get the switch I don't have anywhere to plug it in. So I'm still going to have to cut into the wiring harness like 92Z suggested which I'm sure will work but I'm just looking for a better way to do it so I don't have to cut up the factory wiring.

Nothing wrong with trying to outsmart the factory. That's the point of this message board to make modifications & other improvements.

Here's another idea. There were two wires that went to the automatic shifter. When connected it told the computer that the car was in neutral. I wonder if I got another switch for the clutch pedal and connected these two wires to it. Would this allow cruse to disengage when the clutch is pressed? Also, I hear that people who swap from automatic to manual have problems with inconsistent idle because the computer thinks the car is always in gear. I wonder if this would solve the idle problem?

 

Then get the harness off of the stick shift car, too.

The whole cruise system is a unitized assembly. It's totally independent of the rest of the car's wiring. It has its own little grommet where it goes through the firewall. Even comes with the right vacuum lines all tied up with the wires. It all just plugs right in.

Have you even gone to your local buzzard and LOOKED AT a stick shift cruise setup yet? Just LOOKING will answer alot of questions about how to do stuff; even if you do decide to do it some hard way instead of just grabbing the actual already-engineered and prepackaged stick shift stuff and sticking it in there.

 

I didn't realize that you could swap out just part of the harness. Anyway, the junk yards around here are kind of limited on third gen parts but maybe I'll get lucky. By the way, do you happen to know what the vacume line on the cruse switch is for? Why is it needed, there is already an electric connection there.

 

To kill the cruise when you push the pedal. The electric turns the regulator off; the vacuum valve INSTANTLY releases the servo, NO MATTER what the electric part does. Whic, even when the electric turns off and stops commanding the cruise to open the throttle, it takes a whole for the vacuum to bleed back out of the servo. The vacuum valve makes it more or less instant.

I kind of doubt that the stuff HAS TO come out of a thirdgen.... regardless, even if the parts that you can put your eyes on don't fit intact, a little study might be of help; and could be a source for switches, connectors, etc.