Question about TransGo Shift Kit
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From: DFW Area
Car: 1984 Z-28
Engine: 5.0L H.O.
Transmission: 700R4
Question about TransGo Shift Kit
I figured that since so many of y'all have installed this kit, I'd ask here first. First off, I've got an '84 Camaro with the 700R4. I adjusted the TV cable according to the many ways that I've read on here. After many adjustments, the transmission would still shift into 2nd at around 10 mph, and 3rd at around 20. The fourth gear shift was about 35 or so. Anyhow, I pulled the tranny pan off to see if there was anything sticking, and saw that there was gasket material in the pan. The only material like the stuff in the pan was the pieces between the valve body and the transmission itself. I pulled off the valve body and saw that these springs were broke. I figured I might as well put a shift kit in it at the same time that I've got this down. Does the kit include the springs for the accumulator? Or do I need to order these separately? Also, the other reason I pulled the pan was because I've gotten rid of the computer and was going to install and wire up a new 4th gear pressure switch, which I'm pretty sure is the one on the right (in the pic). What is the one with the 2 pins coming off of it? Thanks in advance for your responses.
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From: Nanticoke, Pa
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 406 CI
Transmission: Pete K 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:55
Accumulator springs do not come in shift kits. The seperator plate that is likely beat up does not come in the either.
The single terminal switch is the 4th pressure switch. The one you have is a normally closed switch. If you are doing 4th gear only lock up, you will have to swap that switch out to a normally closed switch.
The single terminal switch is the 4th pressure switch. The one you have is a normally closed switch. If you are doing 4th gear only lock up, you will have to swap that switch out to a normally closed switch.
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 73
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From: DFW Area
Car: 1984 Z-28
Engine: 5.0L H.O.
Transmission: 700R4
Do you mean normally open, pressure closed? I've got one of those to put on, but I'm curious to know what the 2 pin switch is for, and if i need to do any wiring to it or not. Will it hurt anything to leave it in, or can I just remove it and put a pipe plug in there?
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
IIRC, the two pin switch is the 4-3 pulse switch. It unlocks the TCC briefly during a 4-3 downshift.
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 73
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From: DFW Area
Car: 1984 Z-28
Engine: 5.0L H.O.
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks Apeiron. Would I have to wire that into the setup? Or can I just bypass that switch altogether, since I'm replacing the 1 pin switch with the normally open, pressure closed switch?
The TransGo Shift kit that I carry has the 2nd gear accumulator springs, piston, & pin. Depending on which kit you need will determine if the 4th accumulator spring & piston is necessary. I carry the separator plate for these. I need to know the year of the transmission that the plate is needed for?
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 73
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From: DFW Area
Car: 1984 Z-28
Engine: 5.0L H.O.
Transmission: 700R4
Pro Built, this is in an '84. Does the spring above the separator plate control the 2-3 shift or the 3-4? I've seen places say that it controls the 3-4, and I've seen places say that it controls the 2-3. I know that the one below the separator plate controls the 1-2, but it doesn't matter. Both of the springs are broke. By the way, I noticed that they are different thicknesses. What are the different spring rates for them? And which one should goto which shift point?
The one in the case is the 4th gear accumulator. For a better 4th gear shift, you can install any spring in the case first, then the piston. The 3rd gear accumulator is the 2nd gear apply servo. You want to use the Corvette servo, as this will help improve the 3rd gear shift and the 2nd gear shift. The 2nd gear accumulator is the one that sits in the housing on top of the valve body plate held on with three bolts. Depending on what accumulator valve is used in the valve body will determine which spring setup works best. There is a lot to this as far as getting the best shifts at light throttle, and at WOT.
Not trying to hijack your thread, but I have a question for Dana (Pro Built) regarding the 2-4 accumulator piston springs. I bought the SK700 Transgo shift kit to put in my 89 700r4, which comes with replacement springs for the 2-4 accumulator pistons. However, I also bought a 2-4 accumulator pistons/springs kit that came with the "firm" white colored springs that are supposedly an upgrade from the stock ones. I'm in a dilemna as to which springs I should use, the ones with the SK700 kit, or the white ones that came with the aluminum accumulator pistons kit. Which ones do you recommend Dana? I trust your judgment the most when it comes to a 700r4. Btw, I'm the guy who referred Ryan to you the other day. He's the guy who called you with the questions about the Hughes 700r4. Any advice you can give me on the springs would be greatly appreciated! Pat.
For the 2nd gear accumulator, I would use the spring setup in the TransGo Shift kit, as long as you are going to use the Corvette servo. For 4th gear, use the setup from TransGo, as it will firm up the 4th gear shift.
Yeah, I got the corvette servo along with the shift kit. I also bought a .500 boost valve, which I'll install when I put in the pressure regulator spring that came with the transgo kit. I opted for the boost valve that has the o-rings on it since my trans has pretty high miles on it. Hopefully I made the right choice there too.
When you use the main boost valve with O-rings, you will need to clean up the bore where the snap ring goes. Any sharp spots will cut the O-ring. Since this a 1984 unit, I would measure the intermediate boost valve for size. It must be at a minimum .262 to have a decent manual 1-2 shift. If it does not I would add the .296 boost valve, or if you have access to any 1988 & up pumps, you should find that they have a .282 boost valve which will work ok in your case.
Actually, my trans is an 89. My apologies to nightmare for kinda hijacking his thread. Thanks for the tip regarding the snap ring groove. That'd suck if the o-rings got cut installing it. From the research I've done so far, upgrading the reverse boost valve supposedly only helps with manual 1st and 2nd gears like you said Dana. I don't really ever shift 1st and 2nd manually, once in a blue moon, so I didn't see any reason to upgrade that valve. From what I read, the main boost valve supposedly gives you extra line pressure while in regular drive mode, which sounds good to me. Is there more things I need to know about these two valves, or does that pretty much cover it?
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