Upshift problem
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Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 1
From: So. Cal, L.A.
Car: '88 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: Built 383 TPI
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt, 3.27:1 Posi
Upshift problem
I've read the posts that say that the shifts happen too early, and to correct this with a spring recalibration thing-a-ma-jig.
My problem is different. I can't get my tranny to upshift correctly. I've adjusted the TV cable as per instructions, but at that point, the shifts are sloppy, and almost non existant. And when I'm crusing, the downshift sucks! Mostly the engine revs, then slowly I accelerate.
Also, when accelerating from a stop, the motor revs to about 3000-3500 and just stays there till the speed catches up. Then when the trans finally shifts, (about 5500 rpms) the revs go back to 3000-3500 and stay there till the trans shifts again. But at that point, I'm going too fast to keep going.
When I adjust the TV cable some "clicks" in, it shifts good and hard, holds tight when accelerating, and generally feels good. But it still won't shift at WOT until late. Also sometime when I hit WOT, the housing pulls out a couple of clicks, like adjusting it normally, and I'm back to square one.
Here's the skinny:
Stock trans went out, so I rebuilt it with a B&M master rebuild kit and a TCI 2500 stall converter. No servo yet or valve body mods yet.
What could be my problem?
My problem is different. I can't get my tranny to upshift correctly. I've adjusted the TV cable as per instructions, but at that point, the shifts are sloppy, and almost non existant. And when I'm crusing, the downshift sucks! Mostly the engine revs, then slowly I accelerate.
Also, when accelerating from a stop, the motor revs to about 3000-3500 and just stays there till the speed catches up. Then when the trans finally shifts, (about 5500 rpms) the revs go back to 3000-3500 and stay there till the trans shifts again. But at that point, I'm going too fast to keep going.
When I adjust the TV cable some "clicks" in, it shifts good and hard, holds tight when accelerating, and generally feels good. But it still won't shift at WOT until late. Also sometime when I hit WOT, the housing pulls out a couple of clicks, like adjusting it normally, and I'm back to square one.
Here's the skinny:
Stock trans went out, so I rebuilt it with a B&M master rebuild kit and a TCI 2500 stall converter. No servo yet or valve body mods yet.
What could be my problem?
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,805
Likes: 107
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
if the shifting is sloppy it can be caused by low line pressure, and an old shot trans, beings yours if fresh, that shouldnt be the case. there is really only 1 setting for the TV cable. at WOT the cable should be all the way out, and thats it. when you adjust it in, you are extending the time between the shifts because of a high pressure created by the kickdown. this spring acks the same way as what you are doing. it holds the cable out a bit more at normal throttle and at WOT its completely compressed=, keeping the TV cable from moving.
mine works great and what do you have to lose for 12$
check you fluid level too
mine works great and what do you have to lose for 12$
check you fluid level too
Last edited by //<86TA>\\; Mar 16, 2007 at 03:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 1
From: So. Cal, L.A.
Car: '88 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: Built 383 TPI
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt, 3.27:1 Posi
So you mean that when the throttle at WOT, then the TV cable is pulled out to it's maximum? Cause when I push the detent button in, and bottom the housing, then hit WOT, the cable then after can be pulled out some more clicks.
Today while driving, I turned off the motor, floored the pedal, felt a couple of clicks, turned it on again, and then the tranny felt sloppy again. I was just crusing, and wanted to pass a car, so I floored it, and the motor reved, but the car didn't go anywhere for a second or two. Then it grabbed a gear and started to accelerate.
At that point the transmission shifts smoothly at normal slow driving. I feel that the inner cable itself is too short. So adding that spring seems like it would make my situation even worse.
Today while driving, I turned off the motor, floored the pedal, felt a couple of clicks, turned it on again, and then the tranny felt sloppy again. I was just crusing, and wanted to pass a car, so I floored it, and the motor reved, but the car didn't go anywhere for a second or two. Then it grabbed a gear and started to accelerate.
At that point the transmission shifts smoothly at normal slow driving. I feel that the inner cable itself is too short. So adding that spring seems like it would make my situation even worse.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 1
From: So. Cal, L.A.
Car: '88 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: Built 383 TPI
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt, 3.27:1 Posi
Actually, the level is right on. I had to drain some out cause there was about a pint too much. The problem still existed after that.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 1
From: So. Cal, L.A.
Car: '88 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: Built 383 TPI
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt, 3.27:1 Posi
Re: Upshift problem
What seems to be happening is that when the movable part of the housing is more inward (toward the bracket) the shifting feels more firm, and the trans feels to grab alot better, (part throttle acceleration), and downshifting grabs well, and is quick.
But when the movable part of the housing is more outward, the trans feels mushy, and like it's slipping. Downshifting is very inaccurate, and slow to engauge.
But no matter how the cable is set, the upshift at WOT just doesn't happen until late. I've lost against a mustang because of this.
But when the movable part of the housing is more outward, the trans feels mushy, and like it's slipping. Downshifting is very inaccurate, and slow to engauge.
But no matter how the cable is set, the upshift at WOT just doesn't happen until late. I've lost against a mustang because of this.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: central mo
Car: 84 sport coupe
Engine: 2.8,for now
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: junk
Re: Upshift problem
what conditon is the fluid in?is it discolored or burnt smelling?also keep in mind that tq's respond to engine torque.a 2500 rpm converter may stall 3000 rpm behind a torquey engine.with 700r4's wide gearing between 1st and 2nd and the tall gears in your car,the converter may be functioning normally
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 483
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From: maine
Car: 1986 iroc z
Engine: vortec 383
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 moser 12 bolt true trac
Re: Upshift problem
dont keep driving it like this unless you want to rebuild the tranny.
tv cable = all the way out when full throttle. this is very easy to check.
tv cable = all the way out when full throttle. this is very easy to check.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 1
From: So. Cal, L.A.
Car: '88 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: Built 383 TPI
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt, 3.27:1 Posi
Re: Upshift problem
Well, the reason I'm bringing this up is because I need to take care of this like NOW!! as this is my daily driver.
I've really kicked back on driving aggressively, but I want to take care of this now.
I've talked to a couple of technicians, but they have the same conclusion as I do that the cable is too short.
Does any body know of a site that explains how the
700R4, or the 4L60 works?
I've really kicked back on driving aggressively, but I want to take care of this now.
I've talked to a couple of technicians, but they have the same conclusion as I do that the cable is too short.
Does any body know of a site that explains how the
700R4, or the 4L60 works?
Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
From: maine
Car: 1986 iroc z
Engine: vortec 383
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 moser 12 bolt true trac
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