My T56 Swap Thread....
#601
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Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
If you are dead set on a T10 transmission you should make a new thread. The information contained in this thread should be specific to the T56 swap itself. It will reduce confusion for when people are actually looking for T56 specific information.
#602
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Car: 67 ******mobile
Engine: 385 Solid roller
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
Anyone ever find out what that shim was for under the FW? on page 1?
Have a PN on it or the GM LT1 throwout bearing?\
Did the LT1 T56 cars come witth pilot bushings or bearings. PN?
Having some issues with my conversion clutch doesnt seem to be disengaging quiite enough synchros arent happy. Trans guy mentioned something about a shim...was wondering about the one on P1
Also the PP bolts are long discontinued, use Mc Cleod 1502
As sofa said NO other bolts, youll regret it.
Also on the CF fw dont worry about weight is way overrated.
Have a PN on it or the GM LT1 throwout bearing?\
Did the LT1 T56 cars come witth pilot bushings or bearings. PN?
Having some issues with my conversion clutch doesnt seem to be disengaging quiite enough synchros arent happy. Trans guy mentioned something about a shim...was wondering about the one on P1
Also the PP bolts are long discontinued, use Mc Cleod 1502
As sofa said NO other bolts, youll regret it.
Also on the CF fw dont worry about weight is way overrated.
#603
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Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
Anyone ever find out what that shim was for under the FW? on page 1?
Have a PN on it or the GM LT1 throwout bearing?\
Did the LT1 T56 cars come witth pilot bushings or bearings. PN?
Having some issues with my conversion clutch doesnt seem to be disengaging quiite enough synchros arent happy. Trans guy mentioned something about a shim...was wondering about the one on P1
Also the PP bolts are long discontinued, use Mc Cleod 1502
As sofa said NO other bolts, youll regret it.
Also on the CF fw dont worry about weight is way overrated.
Have a PN on it or the GM LT1 throwout bearing?\
Did the LT1 T56 cars come witth pilot bushings or bearings. PN?
Having some issues with my conversion clutch doesnt seem to be disengaging quiite enough synchros arent happy. Trans guy mentioned something about a shim...was wondering about the one on P1
Also the PP bolts are long discontinued, use Mc Cleod 1502
As sofa said NO other bolts, youll regret it.
Also on the CF fw dont worry about weight is way overrated.
I'm sure they all came with pilot bushings but i would and did use a bearing.
I'm not sure about that shim but I don't think it has anything to do with the clutch engagement/disengagement. If this was a push clutch rather then pull then yes you could use TOB shims to adjust your engagement 'too much shim and it won't disengage all the way'.
True that on the bolts!!!
As far as "dont worry about weight is way overrated", i couldn't disagree more. If you couldn't feel the difference then i would say it is way overrated BUT, the difference is SOO obvious and of course it depends on how much power your trying to push through it. If your not pushing some real horsepower then stick with a heavy flywheel.
#604
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Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
10085246 is one number.
Having some issues with my conversion clutch doesnt seem to be disengaging quiite enough synchros arent happy. Trans guy mentioned something about a shim...was wondering about the one on P1
#605
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Car: 67 ******mobile
Engine: 385 Solid roller
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
youre right I worded that wrong too tall could be it
Tried putting a Sachs and this Centerforce side by side but that apparently means nothing its once they are torqued down that decides where the T/O bearing sits. The CF clutch fingers dont angle down much the Sachs/stock stuff does.
Gonna put it all together and take a closer look at whats doing what how far it takes the slave rod to actually disengage go from there. Its always been "Ok" but never "quite right". A nicely working setup should shift like butter all the time
Tried putting a Sachs and this Centerforce side by side but that apparently means nothing its once they are torqued down that decides where the T/O bearing sits. The CF clutch fingers dont angle down much the Sachs/stock stuff does.
Gonna put it all together and take a closer look at whats doing what how far it takes the slave rod to actually disengage go from there. Its always been "Ok" but never "quite right". A nicely working setup should shift like butter all the time
#606
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
Anyone find a good solution to Mechanical speedo issue? I'm trying to mate a T-56 to an 88 iroc L98. Speedo is only mechanical.
I have 2 solutions..but they are both expensive.
http://www.abbott-tach.com/cablex.htm
OR CHECK THIS OUT!!!!! ANYONE EVER USE THIS BEFORE?
http://www.swfabrication.com/product...products_id=28
Maybe its cheaper and better to use aftermarket T-56 Magnum with full size bell housing that already comes with mechanical and electronic speedo provisioning?
I have 2 solutions..but they are both expensive.
http://www.abbott-tach.com/cablex.htm
OR CHECK THIS OUT!!!!! ANYONE EVER USE THIS BEFORE?
http://www.swfabrication.com/product...products_id=28
Maybe its cheaper and better to use aftermarket T-56 Magnum with full size bell housing that already comes with mechanical and electronic speedo provisioning?
#607
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Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
Contact Alloy on here who does the tailshaft conversion. $325 I think, works great. Had it done to mine, no clunky/noisy converter box and a lot cheaper than what SW Fab is charging for same thing.
Allioys website: www.t56cablespeedometer.com
Allioys website: www.t56cablespeedometer.com
#609
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Car: 67 ******mobile
Engine: 385 Solid roller
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
The pull clutches end up being too tall, causing an issue.
Spoken to enough clutch co's, even D and D agreed.
None of them arewihtout release issues the hydraulics suck. LS trans/clutch deal is the way to go sounds like
Thought about modding the TO bearing or fork to get a little more release out of it cant tell with a scattershield on it.
Sinking too much $ into this trans which doesnt even reeeealy need it. Doing everything new this time round
If its right then good otherwise I may just sell the car rather than do yet another conversin. Love it but the thousands dumped every time I turn around is just killing me.
Last time better be right this time. Yeah right
#610
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Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 350 hsr
Transmission: 700R4(blown)
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
Here is an option
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd886.htm
I Have not used this but I was planning to.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd886.htm
I Have not used this but I was planning to.
#611
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Car: 1988 Iroc
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: '96 T56, Hurst Shifter, Mech VSS
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
Anyone find a good solution to Mechanical speedo issue? I'm trying to mate a T-56 to an 88 iroc L98. Speedo is only mechanical.
I have 2 solutions..but they are both expensive.
http://www.abbott-tach.com/cablex.htm
OR CHECK THIS OUT!!!!! ANYONE EVER USE THIS BEFORE?
http://www.swfabrication.com/product...products_id=28
Maybe its cheaper and better to use aftermarket T-56 Magnum with full size bell housing that already comes with mechanical and electronic speedo provisioning?
I have 2 solutions..but they are both expensive.
http://www.abbott-tach.com/cablex.htm
OR CHECK THIS OUT!!!!! ANYONE EVER USE THIS BEFORE?
http://www.swfabrication.com/product...products_id=28
Maybe its cheaper and better to use aftermarket T-56 Magnum with full size bell housing that already comes with mechanical and electronic speedo provisioning?
I just crested the 3k mark with my alloy mechanical speedo conversion, not one single problem!!
#613
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Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
Sorry to bring this back from the dead and I'm sorry if I missed the info in the thread.
Dyno Don and Anaheim Gear found what had to be the very last, brand new T-56 on the face of God's green earth. A great big thanks to both!!!!!!
It is now sitting in my Camaro, having replaced a T5 that sounded like death warmed over, after sitting on a shelf some place in Oregon for who knows how long.
As everybody knows, I had to add about a gallon of Dexron III. I wanted synthetic and that is what Don and I picked up.
When I went on the Tremec website FAQs I noticed that they DO NOT recommend synthetic and state it may void their warranty.
Regardless, I wish I'd gotten the T-56 far sooner.
Dyno Don and Anaheim Gear found what had to be the very last, brand new T-56 on the face of God's green earth. A great big thanks to both!!!!!!
It is now sitting in my Camaro, having replaced a T5 that sounded like death warmed over, after sitting on a shelf some place in Oregon for who knows how long.
As everybody knows, I had to add about a gallon of Dexron III. I wanted synthetic and that is what Don and I picked up.
When I went on the Tremec website FAQs I noticed that they DO NOT recommend synthetic and state it may void their warranty.
Regardless, I wish I'd gotten the T-56 far sooner.
#614
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Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
T56 LT1 dust sheild
I just found this on ebay. I had to make my own dust sheild since mine didn't come with one.
I would have gladly paid $40 for one and not have to mess with trying to make one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301178301407?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I would have gladly paid $40 for one and not have to mess with trying to make one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301178301407?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
#615
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Car: klowny1969 <-youtube 4 3rd gen vids
Engine: subscribe to klowny1969 on youtube!
Transmission: subscribe to my channel on youtube
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
Guys..I detailed everything u need to know about a t56 swap and making the speedo work on a thirdgen in the below video..
The following users liked this post:
91ORANGEZ28 (06-16-2023)
#616
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Car: 1986 Camaro Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
I have read this thread all the way through and it has helped me decide to swap to a T56. The information you have posted will be very helpful i'm sure.
Since my car is already stripped and I happen to have a set of third gen manual pedals I thought I would mount them up. WRONG. When my car was converted to right hand drive the fire wall was completely changed. The steering column now goes through where the master cylinder should mount.
Since my car is already stripped and I happen to have a set of third gen manual pedals I thought I would mount them up. WRONG. When my car was converted to right hand drive the fire wall was completely changed. The steering column now goes through where the master cylinder should mount.
#617
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
I swapped into my 1987 auto camaro a ls1 and 6 speed from a 1999 z28, after installing a oem clutch master cylinder im having problems with the clutch not disengaging,, what do you guys think will be the solution? They are telling me to buy a adjustable master cylinder.
#619
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
i pulled the motor and tranny out as one unit and put it in as one unit, the clutch was new before swapping. so i didnt tak anything apart. just bought new clutxh master cylinder and a set of 4th gen peddles and installed it. what should i do?
#621
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
im confused, so if the tranny was in perfect condition proir to swapping why would i have to pull it apart to see whats in there? I was think it had to do with the pedals and differents throw, thats why i was thinking clutch master would work
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Car: 91' Z28 1LE R7U
Engine: 350 ZZ6
Transmission: 6 Speed T56 Magnum
Axle/Gears: 3:42 posi G80/GU6
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
So can anyone tell me how to hook up my torque arm? Spohn told me their x member torque arm mount kit won't work because its made for 93-97 t56. This is a brand new magnum from Chevy performance. Been waiting for Hawks to get back to me with solution but never heard back after they sent me this xmember and bracket that mounts to no where.
#625
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 D44
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
So can anyone tell me how to hook up my torque arm? Spohn told me their x member torque arm mount kit won't work because its made for 93-97 t56. This is a brand new magnum from Chevy performance. Been waiting for Hawks to get back to me with solution but never heard back after they sent me this xmember and bracket that mounts to no where.
I added links to your thread... swapping-t5-lb9-305-a.html
#626
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Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
So can anyone tell me how to hook up my torque arm? Spohn told me their x member torque arm mount kit won't work because its made for 93-97 t56. This is a brand new magnum from Chevy performance. Been waiting for Hawks to get back to me with solution but never heard back after they sent me this xmember and bracket that mounts to no where.
Hawks' X-member is specifically made for the GM T56.
#627
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Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
You can also go with a tunnel mount arm such as the Alston.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Alston-Race-Ca...86412/10002/-1
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ed-torque.html
http://www.jegs.com/p/Alston-Race-Ca...86412/10002/-1
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ed-torque.html
#628
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Car: 91' Z28 1LE R7U
Engine: 350 ZZ6
Transmission: 6 Speed T56 Magnum
Axle/Gears: 3:42 posi G80/GU6
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
You can also go with a tunnel mount arm such as the Alston.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Alston-Race-Ca...86412/10002/-1
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ed-torque.html
http://www.jegs.com/p/Alston-Race-Ca...86412/10002/-1
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ed-torque.html
#630
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Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
I'm finally doing the thing!
Questions:
-I've read through this thread and many others, and still haven't made a decision on the best pedal and hydraulics combo. Ive seen a few people mention the thirdgen pedal set with a fourth gen clutch pedal. Has anyone tried this yet? I like the "beefiness" and fitment of the thirdgen setup, but I want the engagement point somewhere around the lower middle of the clutch pedal travel with a nice friction zone feel that isn't horribly long. Best way to go about this? Heard that the Cavalier slave makes the friction zone very long and soft, and possibly towards the top of the pedal travel. Not entirely opposed to doing the turnbuckle mod or a Tick MC.
-The VSS goes off of the speedo in early CCC Qjet thirdgens, correct? If I have my tail shaft modded to run my mechanical speedo, that covers everything VSS and ECM related?
-Scatter shield: I have a stock 5000 RPM 305 now. Will be running the RAM SFI approved 18# aluminum flywheel and a SPEC stg. 1 or 2 (still undecided), ARP flywheel bolts, and the recommended PP bolts. Car will only be used for spirited street driving, autocross, and some HPDE/ hot lapping events. I feel like this may be overkill? But after reading horror stories, I'm kicking the idea around.
I've run across two options, the QuickTime and the McLeod. Pricing is SIGNIFICANTLY better on the McLeod, but there isn't much info on it. McLeod's website sucks. Any input there? I've done a few HPDE's and a drift event in my LS1 Formula and I've done several events (and many 6-7000 RPM clutch kicks) in my aw11 MR2 without giving it a second thought, but when researching the lightweight flywheel, I did begin to consider that I do like my legs, even if they aren't as pretty as the fairer sex's If I'm being paranoid, I'll just hold off and run the stock BH until I get around to throwing something together with a little more power and a higher redline.
Questions:
-I've read through this thread and many others, and still haven't made a decision on the best pedal and hydraulics combo. Ive seen a few people mention the thirdgen pedal set with a fourth gen clutch pedal. Has anyone tried this yet? I like the "beefiness" and fitment of the thirdgen setup, but I want the engagement point somewhere around the lower middle of the clutch pedal travel with a nice friction zone feel that isn't horribly long. Best way to go about this? Heard that the Cavalier slave makes the friction zone very long and soft, and possibly towards the top of the pedal travel. Not entirely opposed to doing the turnbuckle mod or a Tick MC.
-The VSS goes off of the speedo in early CCC Qjet thirdgens, correct? If I have my tail shaft modded to run my mechanical speedo, that covers everything VSS and ECM related?
-Scatter shield: I have a stock 5000 RPM 305 now. Will be running the RAM SFI approved 18# aluminum flywheel and a SPEC stg. 1 or 2 (still undecided), ARP flywheel bolts, and the recommended PP bolts. Car will only be used for spirited street driving, autocross, and some HPDE/ hot lapping events. I feel like this may be overkill? But after reading horror stories, I'm kicking the idea around.
I've run across two options, the QuickTime and the McLeod. Pricing is SIGNIFICANTLY better on the McLeod, but there isn't much info on it. McLeod's website sucks. Any input there? I've done a few HPDE's and a drift event in my LS1 Formula and I've done several events (and many 6-7000 RPM clutch kicks) in my aw11 MR2 without giving it a second thought, but when researching the lightweight flywheel, I did begin to consider that I do like my legs, even if they aren't as pretty as the fairer sex's If I'm being paranoid, I'll just hold off and run the stock BH until I get around to throwing something together with a little more power and a higher redline.
Last edited by midnightfirews6; 12-22-2016 at 10:32 AM.
#631
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Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
Yes the VSS is behind the speedometer and runs off the speedometer cable.
Its been 8 years since I did my swap and i used the 3rd gen pedals and made the push rod adjustable. Has been working perfectly for years now.
If you decide to have your tail housing modded for cable drive PM me. I am the one that does them.
Its been 8 years since I did my swap and i used the 3rd gen pedals and made the push rod adjustable. Has been working perfectly for years now.
If you decide to have your tail housing modded for cable drive PM me. I am the one that does them.
I'm finally doing the thing!
Questions:
-I've read through this thread and many others, and still haven't made a decision on the best pedal and hydraulics combo. Ive seen a few people mention the thirdgen pedal set with a fourth gen clutch pedal. Has anyone tried this yet? I like the "beefiness" and fitment of the thirdgen setup, but I want the engagement point somewhere around the lower middle of the clutch pedal travel with a nice friction zone feel that isn't horribly long. Best way to go about this? Heard that the Cavalier slave makes the friction zone very long and soft, and possibly towards the top of the pedal travel. Not entirely opposed to doing the turnbuckle mod or a Tick MC.
-The VSS goes off of the speedo in early CCC Qjet thirdgens, correct? If I have my tail shaft modded to run my mechanical speedo, that covers everything VSS and ECM related?
Questions:
-I've read through this thread and many others, and still haven't made a decision on the best pedal and hydraulics combo. Ive seen a few people mention the thirdgen pedal set with a fourth gen clutch pedal. Has anyone tried this yet? I like the "beefiness" and fitment of the thirdgen setup, but I want the engagement point somewhere around the lower middle of the clutch pedal travel with a nice friction zone feel that isn't horribly long. Best way to go about this? Heard that the Cavalier slave makes the friction zone very long and soft, and possibly towards the top of the pedal travel. Not entirely opposed to doing the turnbuckle mod or a Tick MC.
-The VSS goes off of the speedo in early CCC Qjet thirdgens, correct? If I have my tail shaft modded to run my mechanical speedo, that covers everything VSS and ECM related?
#632
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TPI conversion.
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi 4th gen rear
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
I just finished converting from t5 to t56 in my 91. clutch pedal feels good and everything seems fine. when I release the pedal it does not engage until the pedal is almost out. it feels weak. same for in reverse. no noise or chatter. there is smoke and smells like burnt clutch. suggestions?
#633
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 D44
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
I just finished converting from t5 to t56 in my 91. clutch pedal feels good and everything seems fine. when I release the pedal it does not engage until the pedal is almost out. it feels weak. same for in reverse. no noise or chatter. there is smoke and smells like burnt clutch. suggestions?
I assume you have an LT-style T56 with pull clutch. You can start by backing off the slave cylinder, put some washers (spacers) between it and the mount, and see if that helps.
#634
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Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
I just finished converting from t5 to t56 in my 91. clutch pedal feels good and everything seems fine. when I release the pedal it does not engage until the pedal is almost out. it feels weak. same for in reverse. no noise or chatter. there is smoke and smells like burnt clutch. suggestions?
Did you use a 93-97 master and slave or something else?
There are ways to change it, but clutch release is very quickly changed by changes to the "geometry" of things. Adjustable master cylinder pushrods might be something to try.
#635
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TPI conversion.
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi 4th gen rear
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
Got t56 from a 95 everything came from the same car except the master slave assembly. It's the correct master slave. Got it used.It seems to be working. I was told the trans came out of a running car. Do I know absolutely the condition before I got it ? No.
#636
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TPI conversion.
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi 4th gen rear
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
The linkage is "too tight" and is not fully releasing the pressure plate. This is similar to if you had for foot on the clutch pedal and not fully releasing it.
I assume you have an LT-style T56 with pull clutch. You can start by backing off the slave cylinder, put some washers (spacers) between it and the mount, and see if that helps.
I assume you have an LT-style T56 with pull clutch. You can start by backing off the slave cylinder, put some washers (spacers) between it and the mount, and see if that helps.
#637
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Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
Using spacers where they dont belong isnt fixing the problem. I suspect the clutch to be the problem. You should have installed a NEW clutch assembly when you did this swap.
I did this swap on my last car back in 2002 and a new slave cylinder assembly was just about $150 from the dealer. No point in buying one from a junkyard when its that cheap at the dealer. Sometimes, spending a few more dollars actually saves you money in the long run.
Now, you you're going to have to do the job all over again and if you're doing it on your back then I feel your pain because I've pulled my T56 in and out of my car about 5 or 6 times over the past 10 years....on my back.
Do yourself a favor and buy a new clutch assembly and slave assembly. Make sure the flywheel is not worn down either. I had a SLP flywheel what I bought used MANY years ago and then had it resurfaced. Well, it must have been the 3rd time it was done because it was out of SLPs specs when I measured it. In the trash it went.
I did this swap on my last car back in 2002 and a new slave cylinder assembly was just about $150 from the dealer. No point in buying one from a junkyard when its that cheap at the dealer. Sometimes, spending a few more dollars actually saves you money in the long run.
Now, you you're going to have to do the job all over again and if you're doing it on your back then I feel your pain because I've pulled my T56 in and out of my car about 5 or 6 times over the past 10 years....on my back.
Do yourself a favor and buy a new clutch assembly and slave assembly. Make sure the flywheel is not worn down either. I had a SLP flywheel what I bought used MANY years ago and then had it resurfaced. Well, it must have been the 3rd time it was done because it was out of SLPs specs when I measured it. In the trash it went.
#638
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Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
And there is no "linkage" in the LT style T56 setup. The slave cylinder is a pre bled part that simply bolts to the side of the transmission on the two long threaded studs. The ball on the end of the rod then sits inside the cup on the tip of the fork which then pivots on the throwout bearing which is pre installed on the pressure plate. If you do not get the fork fully seated on the throwout bearing then it will drop out and cause the other end of it to jam itself into the aluminum spacer. This will also cause the fork to rub on the pressure plate which will make a terrible noise.
#639
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Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
The pedals are very useable in a third gen if you want a more modulateable clutch pedal. Or the pre is a Cavalier slave cylinder that works with larger bore.
If your clutch isn't slipping more progressively in higher gears ( more in 5th than 3rd ) it may just be a case of the clutch engaging quickly and leading to slippage/grab that's very on/off with little in between.
#640
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Engine: 305 TPI conversion.
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi 4th gen rear
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
The hydraulics are good got them from a friend. The flywheel I just took down and got it resurfaced. The old clutch and pp was toast. New set up going in Saturday.
#641
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 D44
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
The flywheel could be the issue. With a traditional "push" pressure plate, cutting the flywheel will increase the PP-breaing gap and lower the pedal. Too far, becomes pushing the pedal to the floor doesn't free the clutch, leading to gear grinding.
The "pull" pressure plate of the LT-T56 means cutting the flywheel closes any gaps, becomes pre-engaging the PP, and not allowing the PP to fully grip the clutch, moves the pedal higher to fully engage... The washer/spacer is cheap, easy band-aid to determine if there lies the problem.
Additionally, that worn clutch disc (too thin) in this "pull" system causes the PP to have to extend further. This reduces the mechanical grip of the PP... As you extend a spring, the amount of force it can apply is reduced.
The "pull" pressure plate of the LT-T56 means cutting the flywheel closes any gaps, becomes pre-engaging the PP, and not allowing the PP to fully grip the clutch, moves the pedal higher to fully engage... The washer/spacer is cheap, easy band-aid to determine if there lies the problem.
Additionally, that worn clutch disc (too thin) in this "pull" system causes the PP to have to extend further. This reduces the mechanical grip of the PP... As you extend a spring, the amount of force it can apply is reduced.
#642
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TPI conversion.
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi 4th gen rear
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
All in and running. Seems much better although if I push the clutch all the way to the floor I hear a sound like the clutch assembly is rubbing on something. I checked the fork and it seemed fine. Suggestions!
#643
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 D44
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
Typically, that is overtravelling, and the fork is contacting the edge of the pressure plate. Add a little more spacer. Or, put a stop block to limit the clutch pedal.
#646
Member
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
Mine was rubbing on the pressure plate as well and I added a spacer and it worked fine.
#648
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Car: 1987 Firebird
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
Re: My T56 Swap Thread....
wow, what a mess. WTH photobucket....
Ill try to clean this thread up when i get a chance, i still have the original photos saved.
Ill try to clean this thread up when i get a chance, i still have the original photos saved.