What exactly does this kit do? I heard it forces much better shift points but would this have a reverse/advantage effect to a shift kit already installed in a 700R4 tranny in a L98 TPI equipted Camaro?

For like $7 bucks (a couple springs and rubber/plastic washers or whatever) seems like an AMAZING GIMICK? or does it really work?? And does the TV cable have to be adjusted PERFECTLY first before it does its MAGIC?

How exactly do you install this? Pull the cable out first??

Thanks

 

it is the sonnax spring thing? Its pretty cool, i had one for a while before i swapped to a 5 speed. It just clips over the TV cable where it attaches to the carb/throttlebody. It made quite a dramatic difference for me, the shift points were higher and shifts were VERY hard, i did have a servo upgrade. I dont know how it affects the life of the trans/ujoints, but for 7 bux of so it was fun

 

It really gives your trans a shot in the arm! When I put mine on I had to adjust the tv cable several times before the shift points felt right. Once you get it set right though, even part throttle shifts are a lot firmer. Also, my trans always shifts into OD too early (about 35 mph). With the spring, it doesn't go into OD until about 45 mph, which is about perfect. I did take it off for wintertime though. The 1-2 shift is so stout with the spring on, I'd probably end up in a ditch when there's snow on the road.

 

What about any damage to the tranny?

 

I found this on the internet; http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/700R4...em140074438122

Same thing? only $7 us plus $3us to ship to me!

Now you mentioned you had to set your TV cable a bit differently for the spring.. What was your method of adjusting it? (There are like 3 different ones floating around)..

Method #1:

1. Car turned OFF
2. Press "D" button and have the cable housing (black) slide into the collar more towards the front of the engine.
3. Have someone else get into car and while "D" is STILL pressed down fully, have them press the gas pedal all the way to the floor and hold it as #4 is done.
4. While gas pedal is to the floor, pull the housing as hard as I can towards the rear of the engine (firewall) so that the throttle plate is open as far as it possibly can.
5. Release the "D" button.
6. Mark the cable at the back of the plastic housing to set a mark where the cable is just in case it ever slipped or want to reset back to INSYNC setting.

Method #2:

1. Engine off
2. Press the D-shaped button/tab/whatever on the side of the TV cable at the carb.
3. Pull the black cable sheath that comes from the trans away from the carb.
4. Then go in the car and slowly depress the gas pedal all the way to the floor. Toward the end, it'll get hard to push, but keep going smoothly. All of a sudden it'll click and you'll feel a snap in the pedal, and it'll go to the floor. It's all adjusted.

Method #3:

1. Engine off
2. Press the D-shaped button/tab/whatever on the side of the TV cable at the carb.
3. Pull the black cable sheath that comes from the trans away from the carb.
4. Manually WOT the throttle plate with your fingers at the engine yourself until you hear the little clicks.

It's all adjusted.


Which method would I use? and why over the others?

 

It shouldn't do any damage to your tranny as long as it's in healthy condition. All the spring really does is increase the line pressure in the trans, which in turn increases the clamping load on the clutch packs, and makes the shifts quicker. All this equates to less slippage on the clutches, which results in longer life for the clutch packs. So in a way, it's probably better for the trans. In all honesty, I basically adjust my cable until it feels right. In other words, until it shifts at the proper rpm and speed, not to mention it'll also kick down at about the right amount of pedal travel when it's set correctly. I guess I use your method #3 for the initial setting, then I drive it to see how it shifts. 9 times outta 10, I end up pushing the toothed slider piece back towards the firewall a click or two while pressing down on the "d" button to tighten up the cable some. You have to press down on the button to get the toothed slider piece to go back towards the firewall. When I just set it by method #3 alone, it almost always shifts too soft and too soon, so if you tighten it up a couple more clicks, it's usually dead on after that. At least that's the case with mine. I've been adjusting mine this way for quite a few years with no adverse effects on the trans, so I must be doing something right. Method #1 looks like it'd be a good way to adjust it as well.

 

I adjust like GM says...move the throttle lever at the carb/efi to WOT. This sets the tranny to the engine. Next, if you want to make sure you really have all the go power available, make sure when you mash the pedal, the throttle actually goes WOT...most don't. You can try to bend the arm on the throttle or remove the padding under the carpet to get WOT...or get an adjustable throttle cable from Lokar. I have had to move the cable housing an extra click or two but this is because TV spring is worn and is not the correct length...what you are doing is makeing the cable compensate for a bad spring. If the spring isn't that far off on length, this can work quite well...the TV corrector spring also compensates for this defect...If you are having shift issues, it's really worth the 7bucks to see if it will correct your issues. If you aren't, I'd say just leave it be. The cable isn't a kickdown adjuster or a shift firmness tool, it's the only thing linking the throttle to the trans and tells the trans what mode it should be in relative to the engine...4L60Es know this from the electronic signal generated from the TPS, among other inputs...

 

Probably explained it better than I did. I'm sure the tv spring in my trans is a little short due to wear. After all, it has almost 240K on it, so that's probably why a couple of extra clicks works better. Using the cable to compensate for a weak or short spring is a perfect explanation. Still shifts nice and firm though, even without the corrector spring. Of course that may change when I replace the tired 305 this coming spring with the super-rammed 355 I built. On mine, the corrector spring delays the shifts a little longer and makes the shifts quite a bit harder. I like having it set up that way during the summer months, makes it more fun to drive.