I went to replace my U-joints as per the Haynes manual way and ended up breaking a bench vise and still no cap out of the yolk, however I did manage to press it enough to get the c clip off one side before the vise broke. comtemplating taking it to a shop to have them press out and in the new joints rather than have to get a new shaft and have them put my HD joints in, unless someone else knows.

 

Heat up the yoke around the u-joint cups with a propane torch until the injected plastic melts and comes out. It doesn't take much. Makes removing u-joints much easier. You won't hurt anything. The temperature of a propane torch isn't hot enough to hurt the metal.

I normally remove u-joints with a hammer and a vise. Never had to press any in or out.

Damn Haynes and Chilton auto parts store manuals give just enough information for anyone to be dangerous.

 

old ones can be a pain, it may just be easier to have someone do them for you...let them deal with it.

I ripped my vise off the bench first time i tried.



hmmm it seems we have similar opinions of the hammer

 

They come right out once you use enough heat to melt the plastic. Doesn't take a whole lot; propane is enough. MAPP gas is even better, acetylene is borderline too much, like using a 4x4 to swat a mosquito.

If you put enough force on it to break a vise, then the drive shaft is toast. The ears are bent. Throw it in the trash and start over, because even if you DO get the old joints out, that shaft will vibe forever.

I usually use a hammer, a certain 5/8" socket, and an old Frod 9" axle bearing. And heat of course. Just lay it on the floor, I don't even bother with a vise. They come RIGHT out. About 2 or 3 good whaps and it's all over.

 

I heated the hell outta the caps and watched the plastic come out like whiteheads and started whacking and got nothing other than the nice smell of the burning rubber and plastic

 

OK I followed your advice, only I did it on the floor with a 3/4 socket and an 1 1/8 socket and a few good hard hits from a baby sledge knocked em right out and the shaft is back in the car. Btw, I checked the ears on the diff and tranny yoke ends and luckily they weren't bent at all so it turned out great. Thanks for all the help

 

What would bend the ears? Mine aren't parallel and nothing is budging. They've never been replaced, and the car is stock, so why would the ears be bent? I've already heated the thing up and melted out the plastic and it's my daily driver...just freakin' great.

 

while everything is freshly hot I hit the exposed sides of the U joint when removing the axle end of the shaft and use a smaller socket for the trans end.

a little tip/trick for installing the new joint, if the clips don't want to go in or it seems just a tad to tight shave a little of the clip off and it should slip in. some clips are just a tad too thick.

another trick to getting the joints to move freely is to tap the neck area of the yoke and shaft. this is the area just behind the cap/bearing area. a slight few almost firm taps will walk the cap out and seat everything.

on non stock joints you can remove the clips and with a bit more firm wack this will walk the caps right out of the shaft with no damage to the shaft.